AT clunk when shifting into D (or R), car stationary
#1
AT clunk when shifting into D (or R), car stationary
I just had a major work done on my 2000 SE front end: my mechanic replaced both struts, control arms (LCAs), both wheel bearings, and half-axles/CV joint assemblies (both sides). Also, a wheel alignment. The car has 116,500 miles, and apart from the front end, is in very good shape.
The whole job (parts and labor) cost me $1,700 but the front end is now nice&tight and the steering feels better than when the car was new (I am the original owner).
There is only one problem: now, when I shift into D (or R), with the car standing still, there is a clunk/jerk. The symptom is the same as if you tried to shift with your foot on the gas.
This problem wasn't there before this repair was done - I am absolutely certain of that. I plan to take the car back, but I would help me to go with something in my hand.
I have no clue how the above repair could cause this ......
I very much appreciate your suggestions and ideas!
The whole job (parts and labor) cost me $1,700 but the front end is now nice&tight and the steering feels better than when the car was new (I am the original owner).
There is only one problem: now, when I shift into D (or R), with the car standing still, there is a clunk/jerk. The symptom is the same as if you tried to shift with your foot on the gas.
This problem wasn't there before this repair was done - I am absolutely certain of that. I plan to take the car back, but I would help me to go with something in my hand.
I have no clue how the above repair could cause this ......
I very much appreciate your suggestions and ideas!
#3
I don't know what the shop could have done to cause the clunk. Maybe because all the other slop is gone from the suspension and drive train, you can feel this now. The motor mounts sound like a good possibility.
However, check the oil level in the auto trans. Low oil can cause rough shifting.
You can also check the motor mounts your self. Start the car and put it in drive. Keep you foot on the brake and rev the engine to maybe 3K rpm. Watch the engine while you rev the engine. It should move very little, maybe an inch. Repeat this with the trans in reverse. If you have a bad motor mount, the engine will move maybe 4-6 inches.
However, check the oil level in the auto trans. Low oil can cause rough shifting.
You can also check the motor mounts your self. Start the car and put it in drive. Keep you foot on the brake and rev the engine to maybe 3K rpm. Watch the engine while you rev the engine. It should move very little, maybe an inch. Repeat this with the trans in reverse. If you have a bad motor mount, the engine will move maybe 4-6 inches.
#5
I came to the same conclusion today. I suspect the engine mount got damaged when the mechanic revved the engine trying to expose any/all problems in the front suspension and driveline (I was there, he invited me to have a look). No blame, the mount was probably about to go anyway.
My engine moves about 2-3" (not 4-6" as you suggest), but something tells me that the rear mount is either weak or gone completely. The two side-mounts look OK to me, but what do I know .....
Thanks a lot Denis!
My engine moves about 2-3" (not 4-6" as you suggest), but something tells me that the rear mount is either weak or gone completely. The two side-mounts look OK to me, but what do I know .....
Thanks a lot Denis!
#6
Hi Guys, here is an update:
I saw my mechanic this morning. He confirmed the problem, and it's the transmission. The clunk is coming from the transmission, mainly when shifting (R -> N -> D). He had the car jacked up, with a helper inside the car doing the shifting. There is a clear clunk coming from inside the (bottom half of) the transmission. He invited me to listen and watch (under the car), so I saw all this with my own eyes/ears.
BTW, once the car is moving the transmission it just fine - it shifts without any problems.
The engine mounts are OK, although the one on the passenger side is a bit weak. We have pretty well eliminated them as the cause of the transmission clunk.
Why did this happen after the front suspension repair last Friday? He doesn't know, suggested it may be a coincidence (I should note that he is a very honest guy and a square shooter). Spent 30-40 minutes diagnosis all this and did not charge me a dime.
I will be more than interested in your comments and suggestions ......
I saw my mechanic this morning. He confirmed the problem, and it's the transmission. The clunk is coming from the transmission, mainly when shifting (R -> N -> D). He had the car jacked up, with a helper inside the car doing the shifting. There is a clear clunk coming from inside the (bottom half of) the transmission. He invited me to listen and watch (under the car), so I saw all this with my own eyes/ears.
BTW, once the car is moving the transmission it just fine - it shifts without any problems.
The engine mounts are OK, although the one on the passenger side is a bit weak. We have pretty well eliminated them as the cause of the transmission clunk.
Why did this happen after the front suspension repair last Friday? He doesn't know, suggested it may be a coincidence (I should note that he is a very honest guy and a square shooter). Spent 30-40 minutes diagnosis all this and did not charge me a dime.
I will be more than interested in your comments and suggestions ......
#8
OK, update #2 on 11/25:
It didn't make sense to me that the transmission would be the problem (it has been perfect ever since I bought the car). So, I visited a friend of mine who is very good with cars. We used his stethoscope to listen on various places of the axle and CV joints. The passenger side axle, and the outer CV joint in particular, definitely clunks much, much more than the left side.
So, I guess it looks like the cause is a bad "new" part .... this makes much more sense.
I am seeing my mechanic tomorrow and will let you know how it all comes out.
It didn't make sense to me that the transmission would be the problem (it has been perfect ever since I bought the car). So, I visited a friend of mine who is very good with cars. We used his stethoscope to listen on various places of the axle and CV joints. The passenger side axle, and the outer CV joint in particular, definitely clunks much, much more than the left side.
So, I guess it looks like the cause is a bad "new" part .... this makes much more sense.
I am seeing my mechanic tomorrow and will let you know how it all comes out.
#9
Hi guys, here is the final update:
I saw my mechanic today. He agreed to replace the "new" passenger side axle/CV joint (which he installed two days earlier). He didn't believe the replacement will help; in fact, he said "I don't think it will make any difference but I am doing it because I want to keep you happy".
Guess what: after the replacement, there is no clunk, no noise, and the car drives like new. I guess even brand new parts (this part was NOT refurbished - it was "brand new") can be faulty, and it can happen more often than people think.
This episode made me a great believer in using stethoscope when diagnosing hard problems of this type .......
I saw my mechanic today. He agreed to replace the "new" passenger side axle/CV joint (which he installed two days earlier). He didn't believe the replacement will help; in fact, he said "I don't think it will make any difference but I am doing it because I want to keep you happy".
Guess what: after the replacement, there is no clunk, no noise, and the car drives like new. I guess even brand new parts (this part was NOT refurbished - it was "brand new") can be faulty, and it can happen more often than people think.
This episode made me a great believer in using stethoscope when diagnosing hard problems of this type .......
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