Where did you place your jack when you raised the engine? I know the car is on jack stands, but I'm trying to figure out the best place to jack the engine.

 

Bottom of the transmission bell housing works well. Put a block of wood on the jack plate to prevent damage.

 

Hey djfrestyl,

I've been reading this thread and trying to diagnose my problem.

Consistent clunking noises over bumps and a rough idle at a stop, only in gear (5 speed auto). Checked my motor mounts and they appeared to be bad. Replaced them this weekend - except the one directly under the trans behind the engine. Could not get the bolts off. Going to need help with this one. Those mounts were toast so they needed replacing. The rattle/buzz at idle calmed way down but the clunks are still present. Given that the motor mounts are now fixed (3 of them) do you think the stabilizer links are a likely culprit?

The struts are not soft at all. No obvious leakage and I there is no float or clunk when I push down hard on the front corners. Car handles well. 2003 SE.

Tks.

TMS

 

It's unclear which mount is pending to be replaced. "Under the trans behind the engine" does not make sense. I'd finish that job, then continue diagnosis to understand/isolate where the noise is coming from. Stabilizer link clunks are very different than motor mount clunks.

Where are you located?

 

Stabilizer links can make a nasty clunk. When I changed mine, I did not tighten the left one enough. 500 miles later, very scary clunking ....

 

Yep, very loud/scary/discernable - but oddly enough, somewhat safe as long as the nut is mostly tight.

 

Sorry for the confusion, djfrestyl.

Being as specific as I can be, without trying to be insulting, there are three mounts in the engine compartment that I can see from the top of the engine (front, passenger and driver). I did all three of those. There is one "under" the car on the back side of the engine (firewall side) just inside the muffler/cat. converter. Hope that is clearer. I could not get those nuts loose even with 1/2 a can of PB Blaster. I just could not get enough leverage with my cheater bar to crack them. I think it needs to be up on a lift to get the leverage needed - at least for me. I'm looking into that.

I did the mounts because I had a hard clunk between 1st and 2nd gear when I gassed. Buddy said that is prob engine mounts. Had a friend inspect the engine when I revved in gear and I had 2"+ of vertical engine movement - yikes. The car would also vibrate/buzz badly when in drive and at a stoplight. When I put it in neutral, the vibration would stop. I was told that is also a trans/engine mount issue.

Upon visual inspection, all three of my engine mounts (that I replaced) were cracked and leaking. The one I could NOT replace looks to be in good shape (no cracks/bulges). So I'm pretty sure that's not the current problem.

So the vibration, while in gear at stop lights is better, but simultaneously, the car has been riding very bumpy. Every little bump on the road is felt inside the car/steering wheel and it sounded like the engine was bouncing against metal. I assumed the mounts were the issue with all those issues.

After replacing the mounts the engine bouncing noise is gone but the rough ride is still present, though a bit less severe. It feels like I have a super stiff suspension with no shock absorption, as best I can describe. However, there is no float in the suspension and when I press down on the hood I get no continued bounce, nor does the car nose dive when I stop (from reading your other post about diagnosing bad struts).

Another friend is import racer and he said it's probably bushings or stabilizer bar. I honestly don't know much about all suspension components so I don't know what to look for/hear/feel to know if something is bad.

I'm in VA so I'm not too far from you but the TOLLS alone would kill me. )

Thoughts?

 

Hey,

Couple comments. It sounds to be that you replaced the front motor mount from above / under the hood. This is not the usual approach. Typically, the motor mount crossmember (which has both front and rear crossmembers attached) is removed. This easily allows both front and rear mounts to be replaced, then the entire crossmember with new mounts to be reinstalled. This is where my confusion arose.

It is still very possible it could be your struts. They may not be blown, but they simply could not be good anymore, resulting in poor/stiff absorption.

Bushings would not cause this type of stiffness. And unsure how a 'stabilizer bar' (assuming your friend referring to front sway bar) could cause behavior this in any way at all.

I'd proceed to do the last motor mount, and all 4 struts. It will make your suspension behave in the proper way, with proper absorption. Once they are functioning properly, it will make it VERY easy to identify where the other pitfalls (if any) are with your suspension. After struts, there really is not too much more to replace.

As far as traveling to NJ, I think you might be overestimating the tolls. You'd pay for a couple bridges which may be $5-$13 each way, then turnpike. Probably looking at a $50 round trip + gas. Not sure where in VA you are, but I am 3 hours north of DC.

 

^
plus wear and tear + mileage

 

Not sure what the "crossmember" is. Is it the black (in my case) bar that bolts to the front of the frame and is about 3' long (bolts again on the back side of the engine)? I worked around what ever that thing is on the front mount but it was really tight space on the back. The bolts connecting it looked even more stuck than the rear mount bolts so I didn't want to take it off without knowing what it was. Haynes did not suggest taking that piece off so I opted to work around it.

Is there any reasonable way to assess a strut's condition (if it is not leaking, showing obvious wear) before replacing it? I have 156,000 on the car. 30k is mine. The previous owner was an older gentleman who babied the car so I figured it has not been driven aggressively. Not sure if that matters. I've read some posts in these threads were folks did the struts (at around $400) and it was not their problem.

Thanks.

P.S. I'll talk to my wife about a trip to NJ. Where about are you located in NJ? We have three teenage boys who are in sports so getting a free day to travel this time of year is nearly impossible.

 

Yes, about 4" wide and about 3' long. Starts at the lower radiator support and ends at the firewall underneath the car. Both front and rear motor mounts attach to it.

Assuming 156k on the car and the struts have never been changed, hands down it's time. No diagnosis needed, even if babied.

I agree that it could potentially not be the problem, but its more likely to be old/tired/worn/stiff struts than anything else. If the stiffness is in front, then the only other thing it could really be are your control arms.

FYI to do a proper strut job, you're looking at about $450 in parts then whatever installation costs you. Labor can vary heavily depending on who does the work.

 

@tmshokie, I just ordered the complete kyb set from Amazon for $282 with free shipping. OEM boots were about $100 shipped for all 4 (they raised the price on me since the last time I checked!), and $74 for the front strut mounts. There is also a $40 rebate from KYB when you buy all 4 struts. I'll receive my packages tomorrow and will install them Thursday. I'll do my lower control arms next month, they are shot too, along with my inner tie rods. I'm at 226k now.

 

Nice pricing, but I stay away from KYB mounts. Stick with Moog.

 

No, I did get the Moog mounts. Got them yesterday. I ordered some Moog outer tie rods and they are def more beefy than OEM, so I knew the strut mounts would be the same quality. I'm impressed. I can't wait to get this stuff installed, but I have a lot on my plate this week as I have a paper AND a power point due. Priorities! So I'll be installing this stuff asap.

 

Ah, you were referring to a KYB rebate on the struts. Got it.

Bring it to me, I'll install

 

Since I'm a noob, can you give a little more detail? Are these good quality (as compared to Monroe which were mentioned earlier in this thread)? Are these an "all in one?" deal. I don't want to deal with compressing the spring. I'll kill myself.

If you are allowed to post a link to what you bought, that would be great.

Tks.

 

Thanks for all the help. Stopping these vibrations/bumps is getting expensive.

After finishing the mounts I noticed a rougher idle in neutral (two steps back). Did a tune up tonight and found the 5th cylinder full of oil. Plug was soaked in it. Guessing that is my idle issue. Overall the car feel smoother - plugs were pretty corroded. But the pulsing vibration is still there.

The hits just keep on coming...

 

From what I read they are better than Monroe, but I'm just looking for something to replace the originals, if I get better performance, that's just a plus. They are not all in one, you would have to use the springs you have which would require compressing your current ones. I've never done it, but it doesn't seem very hard, as far as compressing the spring goes. Youtube and Maxima.org have been a plethora of info as far as any of my repairs go (power steering hose, wheel hub assembly, valve cover gasket, soon to be struts, O2 sensor replacement, ECU reset procedures, etc..) The list goes on and on and I have saved so much money doing all these repairs myself.

 

I agree with all the points Emaximus states above. For the minor price difference between KYB and Monroe, it's worth getting the KYB.

 

You'll get there. You're doing the major items and there isn't much left else after that. Keep your head up, the end is near

 

I supposedly have a job set up for me at my friends dad's shop starting in May. Ive decided to wait til then to buy them and install them myself so that way ill have all the tools, a wingman, and an alignment.
And maybe then I can get the kyb struts instead since id be able to compress them with their machine rather than by hand.

 

Is there a video link on how to compress the springs by hand? Everything I youtube'd last night used a spring compressing machine. I'm seeing lots of blood and an expensive trip to the ER in my future.

Every time I unearth another problem with all these repairs I pretty much feel like this...

 

These are the spring compressors I'll be using. Simple and safe enough and I'll get them on loan from either Advance Auto or Autozone.

 

HAHA thats the truth!
Strut bearing replacement:

 

If anyone uses the AutoZone spring compressor make sure it's oriented in the opposite direction from the last vid,if your not using air or power tools since it was difficult for me to get a socket on the screw once it got too close to the mount.
I was working alone it sucked i had to use a wrench to clear the mount also i didn't have to compress them that much, only till i saw the top hat moving

 

Great point. Socket connection should be pointed down (towards the strut bracket) when compressing/decompressing. Otherwise the upper spring perch will not allow a socket on there easily.

 

Im glad the bolts were easy for you to remove unlike mine haha

 

I can guarantee you thats why... unfortunately i dont have that luxury and wont until i move south and buy a new car