King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Cant tell which side the clunking is coming from but its definitely in the front

No handling issues..just a clunk when I hit small bumps. Sounds louder since its been cold?

How would I go about diagnosing the issue after I put it on stands?

Tfvesquire

iTrader: (2)

First step is to check out the front stabilizer end links since they are the cheapest and easiest to replace. They are connected to the sway bar and are usually the weakest link in the front suspension on all Nissans and Toyotas. Jack up the front of the car on one side and use a jack stand to support it. Then, use your floor jack and slowly jack up the front A arm until you relieve the tension on the end link attached to the sway bar. see if you can move the end link around (checking fro excessive play) if there is, then replace both sides. You will probably have to cut them of if they haven't been removed in a long time since the nut will simply keep turning and it will not loosen up. Be careful that you don't cut the A arm bracket or sway bar.

If you still have clunking, then your next step is to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. For that, you have to completely remove the front struts and if you are going that far, you need to check the struts for leakage or excessive age. No sense putting a new set of strut mounts on an dold set of struts, getting it all back together and then having to disassemble everything all over again to do the job twice after you find out your struts are on their last leg.

Hope that helps.

Ted

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a ton! Ill be jacking her up this weekend. Hopefully its an easy fix. Great response

Nissan2000Maxima

He hit the nail on the head with this. Often clunks, esp. over bumps is stabalizer link, if not, then you can move to other 'smaller' cheaper components like ball joints, they're in expensive and of course makes the car drive smoother. Keep us updated.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input! Ill probably end up doing that while im under there. Ill post again when I do

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Though post #2 is helpful, I'd first try to replicate the noise with the car on the ground. You'll be more successful than with the wheels off.

Find a friend. Have someone push up and down, left to right, and side to side on the fender. Get under the car and LOOK around. Then look around under the hood while doing the same thing. Clunks are visible.

If passenger side, I'd immediately target the passenger side motor mount - aka transverse mount, rather than the strut mounts. A hard clunk isn't strut mounts very often.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately, I cant replicate the noise on the ground. I nearly dent the fender/ hood because I was trying to push down so hard yet I still couldnt get the noise to occur.

Its always really bad pulling in and out of the driveway. But it sometimes sounds just as bad going over somewhat cracked pavement. Sometimes its barely audible when I travel short distances, and sometimes its VERY audible. I dont know if thats helpful.. but Im just trying to pinpoint the most probables do my lovely 'jack stands' that make me feel oh so safe (not).

IceBerg

I had similar a situation oddly enough it was a combination of my passenger side mount and my hood bouncing when I hit a bump

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Really? I noticed the bouncing hood when I bought the car and after research I found out its a common problem. I loosened the bolts on the latch and push down on the mechanism as hard as I could and tightened it. Didnt do a lot, but it helped! Then I bought rubber stops and placed them around the hood and it went away! So cheap and so simple, give it a shot!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ah, ok. Glad you did this first. Just try to replicate it and we can help you further.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Alright will do

Ill post a video later of the sound in case the actual sound being made helps diagnosis

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Took the video as promised, lemme hear some feedback !

george__

iTrader: (1)

Is it stock suspension from 2001?

Could just be signs of aging.

What's the point of upgrading the strut mount dust boot etc on those old struts?

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Completely stock.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I agree. Doesn't sound like a hard clunk but the typical sound struts make when they're just very very old.

Time to plan an upgrade.

Start reading:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Should I just get the one replaced? Or both?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

If you can swing it, all 4. Parts will cost you roughly $550 to do it right (front and rear)

If you prefer to break it up, do both rears, not just one. Parts will cost you roughly $200-$250.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Is it a diy project? I know those springs can be extremely dangerous but if I just change the whole thing out I shouldnt have any issues right?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Depends on skillset. Dangerous only if you don't know what you're doing.

I'm partial to separate springs / struts as the quality of the parts is better. But if you do go and get full assemblies "quick struts" from Monroe, then yes it's easier to swap the entire assembly.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Alright! Thank you so much for your help!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Np. Too bad you're not in this area I'd have done the install for you.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

ah I wish it could work.. :/

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

tfvesquire gave you a very good reply to your issue. Swaybar links are a common thing that causes that clunking noise your experiencing over the small bumps. I'd definately recomend taking his advise to change those first seeing they're probably your most inexpensive part of your sespension you should try that before going crazy and changing your springs and struts etc. besides if it is your swaybar links changing your springs and struts etc. isn't going to get rid of your noise and it sounds like it would be your swaybar links as per your video but if you really want to change your springs, struts and mounts etc. Monroe makes a complete assembly which makes it simple to swap rather than buying your components separate and worrying about compressing your springs but most definately start with your swaybar links!

george__

iTrader: (1)

Doing suspension on your own isn't that hard. You have to climb into your trunk though and since it is the very first time everything was seized

If you have to assemble the struts then go rent a spring compressor for FREE from a auto shop...

Impact wrench is a good idea for this task

here is a guide made by someone with all the needed info and proper torque specs!

http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html

another piece of useful info

http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Trust me! Keeping fingers crossed that its something small because obviously I dont wanna shell out any more $$ than I have to haha. Thanks!

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

If it is indeed the stuts ill just order a pre assembled one. No sense in losing a decent looking face if somethimg goes wrongg

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Still havent had a chance to get the car lifted. . But assuming I need new shocks/ struts what is my cheapest option?

Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?

Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?

I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?

If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?

I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?

Thanks in advance

george__

iTrader: (1)

Tein H-tech are very mild drop

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

It shouldn't be problematic at all you would actually have better handling but if your complaining about bumps now you may not want to lower it because it will be a bumpier ride and you will have to compromize some comfort for better handling and whether their oem or aftermarket buying your parts seperate will most definately be more expensive because it's not just a matter of springs and struts you will also need to get upper strut mount bearings along with dust boots unless you intend to use your old ones? If changing out all your springs and struts is really what you want to do and keep your stock level of comfort then the monroe quickstruts would be the way to go aswell as cheaper but if you just want to just fix your current problem and save alot of money then take the advice of starting with your swaybar links. Like the saying goes if it's not broken why fix it? but if you want a better upgrade then go for it swap out all your suspension.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Just the responses I was looking for! As much as id like to lower and etc..by the time I havr the cash to invest into the max she'll be close to dead. Im just gonna go with the monroes ( provided that struts do need replacing)

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

Same questions have been answered quite a few times.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Ok.

maxiiiboy

To isolate the source, drive over a speed bump, first with driver side only, then with passenger wheels only, and observe the difference (you have to find a speed bump that makes this possible).

Once you know which side, I would check things in the following order:
1. Sway bar links,
2. Engine mount (the one on Passenger side in particular is known to cause problems),
3. Sway bar bushings (can be a problem in snow country, but less so in California, Nevada, etc.),
4. Struts, incl. strut mounts,
5. Ball joints and/or LACs (Lower Control Arms),
6. CVs/Axles.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Thank you also^

Finally got her up in the air and looked around on either side. Everything was perfect on either side EXCEPT the sway bar end link on the left side. Not a lot of play, but a little bit. will be going to autozone sometime this weekend to get the new one. Fingers crossed!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

If you're doing one, just do both. And replace them with Moog links.

Part #'s are K90431 and K90432.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

Or I can just do one and see if that fixes it then worry about it later.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You plan on replacing one regardless if it fixes it or not. Not like you're going to 'test' with a new one then reinstall the old one.

So given that, do both. You WILL feel a difference with one new one and one old one.

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

. All im saying is that im doing one first. Obviously im doing both but why would I put it on the one that doesnt need it first..
No need for that 'smart' comment

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I didn't say you replace the 'good' one first, but ok man. Good luck. Hope it fixes your problem.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Many of us suggested you start with the swaybar links and it's not much of a suprise that was your issue and for the one you aren't changing it's probably not far behind the bad one so for the cost of them probably best to do both at once and save yourself the headache later.