I have had multiple problems with freeing stuck (seized up) electrical connectors. A friend of mine who is an active DIY-selfer tried to help me, and he had no success either.

I have read the shop manual re. the different connector kinds, and how to handle them (push vs. lift tabs, etc.). Did not help. Typically, I have been pinching with one hand and use my other hand to pry (with a screwdriver) but that hasn't work on my car (for example, still unable to disconnect the MAF connector, spark plugs, others).

I am thinking of disconnecting the battery and soaking the connector with HD40 (or other) but I decided to ask advice before taking that step.

I appreciate your advice!

 

NO WD40 !! The major component is mineral oil.

First try a hair dryer. Don't heat it/them too super hot but apply a little heat/warmth.

If that doesn't work try this ...

 

Try squeezing the connecter, then pushing in a little before pulling out.

 

TurboBink and TollTom - thank you both!!!

Will try your suggestions - off to O'Reilly to buy the CRC QD cleaner .....

 

OK, tried all three suggestions. Eventually, I just used brute force and pretty well demolished the connector (it was the connector for front Engine Mount, and I don't plan to ever re-connect it, so it shouldn't matter).

The other Engine Mount connector was easier - I just used angled nosed pliers.

So, finally I have my engine mounts disconnected, one less thing to worry about ... BTW, I can't tell the difference; I can't notice any increase in vibration.

 

Did you disconnect it with the engine off, or at a higher RPM? I can't remember where I read it but when I disconnected mine, I was told to have someone hold the gas at 1500 RPM so that the mounts would be disconnected in "stiff mode" rather than "soft mode."

 

I need to try that stuff. I always have that problem.

 

I disconnected them with the engine off, so they should be in the "soft" mode. I suspect that's why I didn't detect any difference during idling.

I didn't notice any difference when driving/accelerating either, at least not during my casual drive around the block. Should this become a problem, I would install the MT mounts. Given my driving style, I suspect things will be OK, for a while anyway ....

 

OK, here is an update: It wasn't a stuck connector, but my technique was wrong. I have finally learned how to do this properly. I "talked" to a mechanic at justanswer.com, and I want to share what I learned.

For the most common connector (the gray/green type, used for the MAF, spark plugs, etc.) the trick is to:

• Push the green tab/insert; push it longitudally, and push it hard, until the green part slides way in, and until it clicks.
• Must push longitudally, not radially - this is essential! (pushing just in the radial direction does not work .... this is what I was doing wrong).
• When it clicks, the connector then pops up and separates pretty well by itself.
• It helps to hold/support the outside of the connector with your other hand, but it's not strictly necessary. I disconnected the MAF connector by just pushing the green tab with a screwdriver, and it popped up easily once I pushed it all the way in.

The procedure for the other connector types (rounder ones brown or grey, waterproof and non-waterproof) is similar. Here, you either PULL or PUSH the slider while holding the outside with your other hand.

 

This was stated in another thread but I have to mention it here. BE A MAN and use force

^ This is the test to see if you have office hands or mechanic hands.

Seems like a bunch have office hands here