This is from the FSM -- hopefully this will help.
For reference, this is seen as if you were standing in front of the passenger side headlight. You'll be leaning over the drivers front fender to do the work.

I've checked the two vacuum lines you'll want to pull to check for fuel in them... You don't have to pull the fuel rail or anything, even to replace them. Just two bolts each, relatively easy.

ECp51_zpsaafc5fcc.jpg?t=1393171793

 

Understood...but you still need to read all of the posts. As he said in another reply he had the codes for those sensors and thus changed them out and codes went away. As such, it is HIGHLY unlikely those sensors are the problem.

Grabbing an FPR and rail from the junkyard is a good suggestion if he wants to save money, provided one of those is the problem.

 

I've seen other posts where people had issues with the crank sensor not the cam though, yea I'm searching for best deal right now as, the car can still move so it's not an emergency

 

Do you have a multimeter and a copy of the Service Manual? There are instructions which show how to test the sensors on a bench.

 

Yea I've seen those as well but since those were already replaced their on the back end of the list. That and the codes I had all diss appeared it was a disaster of codes, an 2 cat sensors, then crank and both cams.

 

Now that u guys mention it the FPR would make alot of sense. And thanks for the diagram montego. I will have to check my vacuum lines and report back.

 

This diagram would be for a 4th gen correct? I was under the impression that the 5th gen went to a returnless fuel system. And if thats the case, I would assume that the 5th gen doesn't have a damper.

Anyhow, my bet would be on the FPR as well. My 4th gen experienced the same long starts and occaisionnal backfire in gear. The new FPR got rid of all that.

 

Welll.. Not sure what to tell you there. I have a 2001, that book is for a 2001, and I did replace both dampener and regulator on my car.

Just out of curiosity, on a returnless system, where does the excess fuel go that bleeds off when not needed? Or does it not go anywhere but instead just wait in the lines to be used?

 

Must be the 5.5 gen then. Like u said, wait in the lines.

 

So all the sensors you switched out were all from Nissan or something else? If so what brand....

 

Before you go crazy chasing those codes, is the basic maintenance history of this car good? You've done plugs, air and fuel filters, primary O2s etc? Before addressing those codes I would do that first. Just that might make some, or all the codes go away.

 

We'll I took care of everything already codes went away, there's no codes on the car. This has been an issue I wanted to take car of for a while and just kept getting pushed down on priority list. And I got all the sensors from pep boys, they gave me the best overall price and the other auto stores only had universal o2 sensors

 

So the vacuum line from regulator goes in to a split, one side to manifold the other one of mine is unplugged, it's vaccuuming but idk where it goes, might've come off during starter replacement, it's s shaped, does anyone know where it goes?

 

Send a picture of what you see -- there is one line that sort of goes nowhere, and you would have stumbled on it during a starter replacement... check this out:




Is that what you're seeing? I believe it is an automatic transmission breather.

(I lifted this pic from somewhere else in the forum, it's not mine)

 

That one I plugged to black box on intake, there's one that come from the top to about the same location

 

Only really noticed it recently, it sounds like your turning the key to long in the ignition when starting the car. I usually get a strong gas smell if the car is being started for the first time of the day. This is something I will be looking into when it gets warmer, probably the regulator and then go through the list of suspects...

 

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_..._large.jpg?v=1
If you can see this link there's two hoses on top of intake manifold it hat come together for a bit, it's the smaller one to the left

 

Was I not supposed to put this into the intake box thing, cause that would explain where my loose hose goes.

 

for me i will check for your fuel pressure before change$$ anything$$ thats is maybe not the problem... and like NmexMax said... i was thinking the same thing... i changed my fuel filter last year and a week after the car was hard to start, beacause the fuel pressure was releasing after 1-2 hour... need 2-3 'ON' - 'OFF' to prime the fuel pump... and it was starting right up...

the rubber grommet in your fuel tank may be cracked or something. For me i didnt place it like it should when i changed the fuel filter... leave a fuel pressure gauge a couple hour to see if the fuel pressure drop

hope this helped

ps : for my vq30de-k i didnt find a place on the fuel rail to hook my fuel gauge... I DONT think anyone will like this BUT : i reach the fuel pump and cut the plastic hose and put my 'T' fitting that was with my fuel gauge kit with some rubber 3/8 fuel line.... after i found my problem with the reading i put 2 hose clamp very tight on each side of the rubber fuel line and never had a problem.

 

I've done some research but it doesn't answer my question, the breather hose is not plugged in to anything, just sits there?

 

Correct. The breather hose allows the system to "breathe." As components heat up, the fluid (in this case, ATF) will expand a bit and needs someplace to go. If not for a breather, leaks would be likely.

 

So the nipple on the intake is most likely for my vacuum hose that I couldn't find a location for, cool. Thank you

 

ordered, FPR for now, it coming in on Wednesday I'll let you guys know how It goes.

 

I have had similar issues to what you describe on a 98 Volkswagen Cabrio. Once it turned out to be a broken wire on the Coolant Temperature sensor. The other it turned out to be the coolant was so low in the block that it wasn't touching the Coolant Temperature sensor.

The symptoms are identical including no code. Maybe worth looking at if nothing else works.

 

Finally got around to changing fpr, starts on 2nd crank, I though it would take me longer, took me 30 minutes, if that. Another concern i have is that is that its very clunky when I go over bumps, it also seems to pull one way when we accelerate sometimes, any ideas?

 

Those sound like completely unrelated issues. A hollow "thoonk" noise on bumps is often the stabilizer mounts gone bad, but it could be your struts.

As for the torque steering... check your tire pressures and make sure everything is even and we can go from there

 

I did the struts last year due to the ones that were on there were original and the car has 185k so far, I was thinking of replacing the sway bar links and the bushings, as for the tire pressure everything is even I just filled them the other day 32 psi on each side

 

so i found that my control arm bushing was saturated in oil and thats why it was pulling, the rear main seal was leaking, but i put nw tires on it was well i think the clunk was also coming from control arm. I have to do inner tie rods and outer tie rods as ell as links, but the had starting startd up again i might have to order the damper.

 

batterry

 

replaced the battery about 5 months ago

 

Check your passenger side engine mount. I bet it's worn out.

 

If its the one on the top passenger side, i repkaced that last year, im changing out sway bar links and inner and outer tie rod

 

so i replaced the sway bar links and bushing and that seemed to do it, but as far as the fuel pressure damper i took off the vacuum line but there is no leak. i think im going to replace the spark plugs, the back ones seem hard to replace, any advice?, and i was thinking of testing the fuel pump even though its been working for years, i heard that if you put the key in the on position about 3 times and if it starts right up its most likely the pump, im gunna try that over the weekend. where is the pump located and is it pretty easy to replace, how much does it usually go for?

 

The fuel pump is inside the fuel filter assembly in the fuel tank under your rear seat.

 

Would a fuel pump cause this or just the filter?

 

Run the test first- the one when you put key into ON, wait until fuel pump builds up pressure (there will be distinct whirling noise from the pump and then it would stop) and then turn the key from ON to START. If it starts right up then it has something to do with your initial fuel pressure.

From your previous posts it does sound like that. I'd look into fuel pressure regulator as fuel pump/filter are unlikely culprits since the car drives normally later when the fuel is consumed at much higher rate.

 

Try swapping out your fuel pressure regulator. I doubt its just your fuel filter, although it would be good to change out with your regulator/pump

 

I already changed out regulator, but not the damper, I havent tested the fuel pump completely i do notice that when its in the on position and i hear it priming it doesnt crank a much. When testing i heard i should prime it about 3 times, is that right?

 

I don't see a point to do it 3 times- just wait for the pump to turn off after building the pressure and then move the key to START position.

IMO if your pump was bad you'd have fuel supply problems while driving when fuel consumption is much higher. Somehow it manages that just fine.

 

Agreed. Girlfriend once had a Miata with a failing fuel pump. Under load (going up a hill, getting onto the expressway/leaving a tollbooth) the car would sputter as if running out of fuel because the pump couldn't keep up with demand.