When accelerating from standstill, I get stuttering/hesitation. Car bucks a few times and it seems to happen only in 1st gear. After that, I can increase speed and car runs fine. It happens intermittently and more during cold starts. It's not throwing any codes. What could this be?

2000 Maxima SE AUTO

 

When were the spark plugs last changed. It could also possibly be the MAF. You can buy a can of spray MAF cleaner and try it.

 

Mine's doing that too =/ I thought it was because it was cold...

'01 SE - automatic

 

What's MAF?

 

MAF = Mass Air Failure. It is a sensor between the air filter and the throttle body that detects air flow. It sends an electrical signal the the ECU, which then determines how much gas to inject into the engine cylinders.

 

The spark plugs (NGK V-Power) were changed 2 years ago, but I have not put that many miles on it since then. I would also think that if this was the problem, it would trip some codes?

I considered MAF but when it failed a few years ago, the car was much more erratic then. Right now it idles fine and I don't have that erratic RPM/not being able to rev above 2,500RPM symptom with bad MAF. Only time that this stutter/hesitation occurs is when accelerating from standstill.

 

ahhh, mine idles like **** tho for the first 10 minutes. I guess until the engine warms up.

 

FWIW, MAFs do not always throw a code and the failure may not be a full failure that causes limp mode. And for the spark plugs, exactly what brand & model were installed?

But stumbling can be many things other than sparks and MAF. I just picked the 2 most obvious.

 

NGK V-Power

 

The ECU throws a code when it determines there is an actual problem.


Intermittent misses wont throw a code until a cylinder constantly misses for more than a certain time frame. I have no idea what this time frame is.


I would second Dennis's suggestion and change plugs. NGK's are the way to go. Eliminate the cheap stuff first. Then start troubleshooting the more expensive stuff.


My guess is that there is a coil which is out of spec. You can test the resistance with a volt/ohm meter and check it against the values listed in the FSM.


If you decide to replace coils, OEM are the only ones worth your time.


Good luck.

 

could this rip be the cause?

 

It is a possibility because it could be letting air in after the MAF sensor. You should replace that sleeve anyway, but if you could somehow temporarily seal that crack, you would have your answer.

BTW, that small vacuum house on the dashpot is cracking around the hose clamp. You may very well have more vacuum hoses that are becoming brittle and cracking. You should consider buying a couple of feet of vacuum hose and replacing hoses.

 

I don't know if I can temporarily seal it. The rip seems to be almost all the way around.

Is replacing the sleeve just a matter of undoing those 2 clamps and sliding in a new one? or do I have to remove the resonator and air cleaner assembly before that?

 

I can't remember if the sleeve will compress enough to allow you to replace it without removing the resonator stuff. I lean towards thinking that you can, but I wouldn't stake my life on that. But it isn't that difficult to remove the resonator and air box. The hardest part is getting the MAF wire harness connector unplugged.

 

[QUOTE=DennisMik;8933542]I can't remember if the sleeve will compress enough to allow you to replace it without removing the resonator stuff. "I lean towards thinking that you can"


Si se puede or yes you can if you replace it with a new one or one thats not stiff and brittle: )