Are these reliable cars?
06-27-2014, 02:08 PM
#1
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Are these reliable cars?
Looking for something newer than my '95 Pontiac. Looking at a 2002 Maxima with a 6 speed manual, but all the pages here are of mechanical problems with the cars... Would it be a good buy?
I found one with 110k miles.... is that when things start going bad on these cars?
I found one with 110k miles.... is that when things start going bad on these cars?
06-27-2014, 02:47 PM
#4
151k, only item replaced has been the MAF, at 90k (bought used on here for 55$). Other than batteries and brakes, it's been and still is solid.
I went from a 97 Grand Am V6 to a 95 Maxima, HUGE upgrade. And now I've got both the 03 and 95.
I went from a 97 Grand Am V6 to a 95 Maxima, HUGE upgrade. And now I've got both the 03 and 95.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 06-27-2014 at 02:51 PM.
06-27-2014, 03:37 PM
#6
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Very reliable
Put over 490,000 on my 2000 5 speed. I still have a 2004 and a 2010. 04 is the worse timing chain noise bad tranny at 150,000. My 2010 is smooth as silk but my best one overall was the 2000! Oil changes and many sets of tires.
06-27-2014, 04:12 PM
#7
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...540391411.html
Thoughts on this? I like the power figures of the VQ35, but if they burn oil, sounds like engines can get neglected and go bad prematurely. Reliability is #1 for me. Would a 3.0 be a better bet?
Thoughts on this? I like the power figures of the VQ35, but if they burn oil, sounds like engines can get neglected and go bad prematurely. Reliability is #1 for me. Would a 3.0 be a better bet?
06-27-2014, 10:03 PM
#11
The 3.0 does rank a little higher in reliability but the 3.5s, besides the oil burning issues which is really hit and miss on some car, is still quite reliable. Plenty of 3.5s out there that are over 200k miles and counting.
Even then it also depends on the previous owners and how they took car of the car (or not) and that can be very hard to tell unless they keep service records or you know the individual.
Not sure if the car you're looking at is at a dealer or from an owner but ask if they keep any service records. Look at radiator support and check for rust as that is common thing for maxima's in certain areas of the country.
Ask about how often they change their oil and if they top it off once in a while... How they answer this question would indicate if its a oil burner or not.. Sometimes just by listening to the individual speak about their car will give you a good indication if they cared for it or not etc..
Even then it also depends on the previous owners and how they took car of the car (or not) and that can be very hard to tell unless they keep service records or you know the individual.
Not sure if the car you're looking at is at a dealer or from an owner but ask if they keep any service records. Look at radiator support and check for rust as that is common thing for maxima's in certain areas of the country.
Ask about how often they change their oil and if they top it off once in a while... How they answer this question would indicate if its a oil burner or not.. Sometimes just by listening to the individual speak about their car will give you a good indication if they cared for it or not etc..
06-28-2014, 01:48 AM
#13
My experience... The Maxima is overall a better car to drive around than my previous Toyota Camry(s) but it has required more maintenance at a lower mileage.
Last edited by george__; 06-28-2014 at 01:56 AM.
06-28-2014, 07:05 AM
#14
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Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
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George_didn't you break your Maxima? I don't think that counts for more maintenance.
The 5th gen Maxima is clearly at least as reliable as any Honda/Toyota of the same years. I noticed that some of those cars, like the Camry seems to be OK with being neglected, and still runs 200-300k without any good maintenance. The Maxima doesn't like to be neglected, but will run just as well if you do take care of it.
Last but not least, the VQ30 is almost always guaranteed to run longer just because of the oil issues on the VQ35.
The 5th gen Maxima is clearly at least as reliable as any Honda/Toyota of the same years. I noticed that some of those cars, like the Camry seems to be OK with being neglected, and still runs 200-300k without any good maintenance. The Maxima doesn't like to be neglected, but will run just as well if you do take care of it.
Last but not least, the VQ30 is almost always guaranteed to run longer just because of the oil issues on the VQ35.
06-28-2014, 08:19 AM
#15
I'll take that over a stupid *** timing belt.
06-28-2014, 09:08 AM
#16
george_ you gonna let him get away with this? I get my trolling/humor only from you...
06-28-2014, 11:17 AM
#17
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LOL....they don't burn oil...per say. They suck it through the PCV valve into the intake, and burn it that way. Catch can, and problem solved. Seems as if this forum really needs some tech guys here. LSx series engines are freaking horrible for "burning oil" but it is only a crappy PCV system like the Maxima has. It's hit or miss because of the driver, higher rpm, more vacuum when the throttle is closed, more oil it sucks. It really is pretty simple.
If anybody thinks that catalytic converters cause an oil burning situation.....SMH...
If anybody thinks that catalytic converters cause an oil burning situation.....SMH...
06-28-2014, 11:26 AM
#18
Installing headers or gutting is $$$$$$$$$ though.
Last edited by george__; 06-28-2014 at 11:28 AM.
06-28-2014, 02:56 PM
#20
06-28-2014, 04:02 PM
#21
VQ35DE Engine : Precat near the radiator
exhaust manifold to precat : no gasket needed
Precat to flexible pipe: need gasket
Precat: near the firewall
exhaust manifold to precat: need a gasket (stainless O ring)
precat to flexible pipe: need a gasket (stainless O ring)
Flexible pipe to main catalytic converter: stainless flat gasket
End part of catalytic converter to exhaust pipe: stainless flat gasket
exhaust manifold to precat : no gasket needed
Precat to flexible pipe: need gasket
Precat: near the firewall
exhaust manifold to precat: need a gasket (stainless O ring)
precat to flexible pipe: need a gasket (stainless O ring)
Flexible pipe to main catalytic converter: stainless flat gasket
End part of catalytic converter to exhaust pipe: stainless flat gasket
06-28-2014, 04:38 PM
#22
LOL....they don't burn oil...per say. They suck it through the PCV valve into the intake, and burn it that way. Catch can, and problem solved. Seems as if this forum really needs some tech guys here. LSx series engines are freaking horrible for "burning oil" but it is only a crappy PCV system like the Maxima has. It's hit or miss because of the driver, higher rpm, more vacuum when the throttle is closed, more oil it sucks. It really is pretty simple.
If anybody thinks that catalytic converters cause an oil burning situation.....SMH...
If anybody thinks that catalytic converters cause an oil burning situation.....SMH...
PCV is only part of the issue. There are plenty of counts of people having early PRECAT, you know the one before the catalytic converter, not the actual catalytic, failure which caused the ceramic material to get sucked up in the combustion chamber and cause damage to the rings. That is why the oil burning issue is hit and miss because not all of them had early precat failure. Nissan I believe did recall around 04 05... Let me find a link...
06-28-2014, 04:53 PM
#23
PCV is only part of the issue. There are plenty of counts of people having early PRECAT, you know the one before the catalytic converter, not the actual catalytic, failure which caused the ceramic material to get sucked up in the combustion chamber and cause damage to the rings. That is why the oil burning issue is hit and miss because not all of them had early precat failure. Nissan I believe did recall around 04 05... Let me find a link...
Driven like grandmas they will last longer. A lot of them haven't been driven hard or don't have high miles, so they haven't destroyed the engine...yet. In less common cases, the other oil burning issue will clog them up before the motor is ruined.
Driven hard they will fail well before 100k. 75k on my old maxi. They disintegrated, literally.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 06-28-2014 at 05:00 PM.
06-30-2014, 12:52 PM
#26
'02 SE maxima 4AT
Bought mine 2yrs ago, and the only thing I've had to change due to failure was the alternator and starter, which was expected to say the least on a car this old.....reliable, I would say yes
06-30-2014, 04:52 PM
#27
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 218
PCV is only part of the issue. There are plenty of counts of people having early PRECAT, you know the one before the catalytic converter, not the actual catalytic, failure which caused the ceramic material to get sucked up in the combustion chamber and cause damage to the rings. That is why the oil burning issue is hit and miss because not all of them had early precat failure. Nissan I believe did recall around 04 05... Let me find a link...
Not to be rude, but are you telling me that the exhaust is getting sucked back up into the cylinder head, past the exhaust valve, and into the combustion chamber? .....SMH You would have to have one freaking HUGE *** duration camshaft, and a leaf blower attached to the tail pipe to pull that feat.
06-30-2014, 05:13 PM
#28
Not to be rude, but are you telling me that the exhaust is getting sucked back up into the cylinder head, past the exhaust valve, and into the combustion chamber? .....SMH You would have to have one freaking HUGE *** duration camshaft, and a leaf blower attached to the tail pipe to pull that feat.
This is actually a known issue WTF?.
06-30-2014, 10:25 PM
#31
These cars are reliable. I have 184k on mine and I have only had 3 major issues since 68k when I bought the car back in 2007.
Issues experienced:
Cam sensor. Known issue easy to fix.
PS hose known issue slight pain to fix.
Coolant log slight pain to fix but was a cheap fix.
Issues experienced:
Cam sensor. Known issue easy to fix.
PS hose known issue slight pain to fix.
Coolant log slight pain to fix but was a cheap fix.
07-01-2014, 12:11 AM
#32
Not to be rude, but are you telling me that the exhaust is getting sucked back up into the cylinder head, past the exhaust valve, and into the combustion chamber? .....SMH You would have to have one freaking HUGE *** duration camshaft, and a leaf blower attached to the tail pipe to pull that feat.
Also, how does a catch can solve the problem? Do you take that oil in the can and put it back in the engine?
Or, is it more a situation where you dump that oil because it's dirty anyway, and the main purpose of the catch can is really to keep your intake manifold/mid-pipe etc cleaner, therefore it is more a bandaid than a fix?
07-01-2014, 04:59 AM
#33
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Not only does it happen to Nissan, but I was watching 5th gear the other day and they were reviewing a used Toyota MR2....I believe 2007 version. SAME EXACT ISSUE. Gut the pre-cats or a motor rebuild will be in the new owners very near future.
Also, how does a catch can solve the problem? Do you take that oil in the can and put it back in the engine? Or, is it more a situation where you dump that oil because it's dirty anyway, and the main purpose of the catch can is really to keep your intake manifold/mid-pipe etc cleaner, therefore it is more a bandaid than a fix?
Also, how does a catch can solve the problem? Do you take that oil in the can and put it back in the engine?
Or, is it more a situation where you dump that oil because it's dirty anyway, and the main purpose of the catch can is really to keep your intake manifold/mid-pipe etc cleaner, therefore it is more a bandaid than a fix?
I've seen a few VQ35DE's fill up a catch can about as much as above between oil changes. The VQ30DEK is dry as a whistle, minimal amounts of oil blow by.
07-01-2014, 06:33 AM
#34
Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but IIRC the catch cans purpose is to prevent the blow by oils to get sucked back into the intake and burned. And the reason you want to do this is because the vq35de can have an excessive amount of blow by, much like this:
I've seen a few VQ35DE's fill up a catch can about as much as above between oil changes. The VQ30DEK is dry as a whistle, minimal amounts of oil blow by.
I've seen a few VQ35DE's fill up a catch can about as much as above between oil changes. The VQ30DEK is dry as a whistle, minimal amounts of oil blow by.
Instead of being burned it is thrown away.
07-01-2014, 09:59 AM
#36
If you installed it with the idea of preventing the oil from being burned in the combustion chamber it works .
But if you installed it to keep from toping off every so often and don't mind the gases sucked back to engine then it is useless...
But if you installed it to keep from toping off every so often and don't mind the gases sucked back to engine then it is useless...
07-01-2014, 06:41 PM
#39
I've had mine since new 12/2011. There are a number of recalls that you should confirm are fixed (most notable is the throw out bearing recall for the MT). I had two annoying issues: #1 was the Bose 6 CD radio left channel cut out problem but you can find replacement radios relatively cheap now (sell you mine for $75+shipping). #2 I have had a few times in the past where the SES light came on with a P0302/P0300 code which some attribute to the oil burning problem. I replaced the plugs and the coils and its been fine since.
I regularly (5k) change the oil, oil filter, air filter, and other fluids with almost 0 problems. I've gone through multiple sets of tires, 3rd set of rotors & Pads, but that is the way I drive. I enjoy driving it. However, its not particularly great on gas - best I ever get is 28 with only highway driving. But I typically get 20 with a mix of city/highway driving. Hope this helps.
I regularly (5k) change the oil, oil filter, air filter, and other fluids with almost 0 problems. I've gone through multiple sets of tires, 3rd set of rotors & Pads, but that is the way I drive. I enjoy driving it. However, its not particularly great on gas - best I ever get is 28 with only highway driving. But I typically get 20 with a mix of city/highway driving. Hope this helps.
07-01-2014, 09:08 PM
#40
Well the obvious reason for a catch can is to keep the intake manifold clean and to prevent the engine from burning or "consuming" the oil. Another reason is when oil enters the combustion chamber is has a detrimental effect of lowering the octane rating of fuel and therefore more subjective to pre-ignition or knock and/or misfire and more so in turbo/supercharged applications. It could potentially affect performance and have a hit on fuel economy in a N/A motor.
Last edited by deloa84; 07-02-2014 at 12:24 AM.