5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

my car keeps dying even after jump..

Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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my car keeps dying even after jump..

Yesterday I put the car in drive and hit the gas. . Car barely moved. I reversed and tried again... confused I shut the car off and when I tried to turn it back on it wont start. .. I had some guys come look at it he jumped it it started. He hooked the cumputer code reader thing to my car and said the transmission solanoid was stuck and he reset it. .. my car had been leeking alot of oil he replaced the seal for the oil pan and told me everythong was good.. I drove to my moms 5 min away ran in came out car starts fine .. while I was driving about 10 min away the car stoped excelerating abs light airbag light were all blinking I pulled over shut the car off then wouldnt start.. I went back today had it jumped but it wouldnt stay running even when I heldd my foot on the gas with in a min it died... PLEASE HELP
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Could be a lot of things. How about some details on the history of the car? Has it been this way always? Exactly how did it start and how long ago?
When you say barely moved do you mean its in limp mode (car won't rev more than 3k)? There is a TSB (recall) on the gas pedal rheostat failing that causes a car to go into limp mode. Was that TSB ever done for your car?
What was the specific code the guy pulled? You don't mention check engine (SES) light - is there any?
When you try to start it exactly what is happening? No sound? Starter click? Engine turns but doesn't fire?
You could try something simple and have the battery tested.
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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My brother had the car since 2010 . He crashed it into a fence in 2012 had no money to fix it so gave It to me.. had to replace alot of stuff like control arm spindle rim bumper... alignment ..
But since then all has been fine I noticed the oil leak about a month ago.. seems like thats when the car started sounding different...
When I hit the gas the rpm thing was going but the car was not..like there was no power at all .. it makes a clicking noise when I turn the key then it sounds like its sputtering or putputput and dies ...
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:10 PM
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No recall was ever fixed.. i dont no wat the code was ... ive been calling the guy but no answer. ..
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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Ses light is on but has been on since I got the car..
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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The battery tested good 12 volts
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Alternator's junk!
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kbghdg
Alternator's junk!
I hope u are right!! That seems like a cheeper fix than other things...v
I had to leave it parked at cumberland farms couldnt find a shop open today... hopefully get this fixed tomorrow
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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Figured id pay a mechanic off craigslist looking for work ..nope wont do that again. this guy screwed me I guess. .. charged me 80 bucks to seal an oil leak ..( and still leaking) and had me thinking it was some sensor that wouldn't let my car start...
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:54 PM
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Yup, your alternator died.
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Yup, your alternator died.
Beat me to it. +1
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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Im feeling better already hope u guys are right!!
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shayna27
Im feeling better already hope u guys are right!!
I'd be very surprised if we weren't right. When you described your dash blinking like a Xmas tree while driving, that's a tell tale sign of a dying alternator.

After you replace it, please follow up with us and let us know the outcome.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 03:35 AM
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I definitely will : )
Thanks guys
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 05:59 AM
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Agreed on the altenator by the sounds of it but I'd also properly check the charging system and battery under load. If you just put a multi meter on it and it reads 12v doesn't always mean the battery is good either. Did you test the battery under load? Also check for voltage on your altenator with the car running so you can be certain unless you just want to change both your altenator and battery? But I agree flashing dash light show and clicking is a tell tale sign of a bad altenator. I'm not sure what the cost in your area is but your probably looking between $100 - $150 for a new or rebuilt altenator and about an hr labour.

Last edited by ac max 92; Sep 2, 2014 at 06:15 AM.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 07:07 AM
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Test the Alt first.... take a Volt and put it to the terminals, it should read around 14.2 when on, if you can turn it on, if not grab another battery to test it. Another easy way, cheap one remove the Positive terminal while the car is on, if it shuts off, the Alt is bad......
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 07:16 AM
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Your alternator is dead
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Sooo
I got to the car today the guy from the garage jumped the battery and said the battery is charging he said that means not a bad altornater... He said I need a new battery...
I drove the car home and parked it in my driveway... Im lost
We jumped the battery more than once yesterday with a car and my car would not stay on.. He jumps it with that portable thing and it stays on... And when I got home and shut it off.. Waited a min turned the key it started again...
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Try swapping the battery with a known good one and check to make sure the cables are tightened down good at the terminals and that any corrosion is cleaned up on the terminals if there is any. That portable thing you mentioned is a charger. He probably didn't boost the battery with it but put a full charge to it but if the battery is no good it wont hold the charge long but may start and run for a little but if the battery is no good boosting it won't give it the charge it needs. Like i mentioned try swapping the battery and see what happens if your mechanic said the altenator is good.

Last edited by ac max 92; Sep 2, 2014 at 10:24 AM.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Would the battery being bad have caused my car to turn on but not drive when the problem first started?
It sucks cause I don't have a car to use to get to a junkyard to grab a cheap battery that works. Don't have money to waist on something that's not gonna fix my car.. The guy at the garage wanted 130$ for a battery..
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 11:39 AM
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My brother (not a mechanic)
Keeps saying its not the battery and the battery wouldn't cause my car to die while driving...
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 11:59 AM
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I (not a mechanic) say to take the battery out of the car, have someone drive you to the local advance or auto zone and have them test it. They should be able to tell you if it's gone bad. If so, buy battery and see if problems are solved.

Fwiw I personally would not trust a junkyard battery.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by shayna27
My brother (not a mechanic)
Keeps saying its not the battery and the battery wouldn't cause my car to die while driving...
If it dies driving I would suspect alternator over battery as mentioned previously
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by shayna27
My brother (not a mechanic)
Keeps saying its not the battery and the battery wouldn't cause my car to die while driving...
He's right. Sounds like your brother has more car smarts than your mechanic.

Alternators are sometimes sneaky bastards. They test ok but really aren't.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Its about the Amps not the volts a alty will put out 12-14v but only may be output 20amps and thats not enough to keep your batt charged and the car running.just running alone you car is using 30-100amps draw! Is your throttle acting sluggish?shifting gears funny? Is your tach moving slow? Do you hear a whining from the engine compartment? And btw a blown rectifier wont always trigger the batt & brake light to turn on.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 04:13 PM
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It drove like nothing ever happened...
After sitting here for a couple hours debating Wat the hell I was gonna do.. I DROVE the car to auto zone 2 min away
Said the battery is good..
When he tried to check the alternator he said the battery wasn't charged enough for the computer to read??
He then did the code thing one code
came up
Po420
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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With a fully charged battery and weak/dying alternator, you could easily drive 2 minutes to Autozone. Now go drive for 20 minutes and tell me what happens...LOL

Your code is most likely a separate issue as it's related to the emission system.

P0420 is for a bad rear pre-cat and will not cause starting issues with your car. It mainly is a silly annoyance.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shayna27
It drove like nothing ever happened...
After sitting here for a couple hours debating Wat the hell I was gonna do.. I DROVE the car to auto zone 2 min away
Said the battery is good..
When he tried to check the alternator he said the battery wasn't charged enough for the computer to read??
He then did the code thing one code
came up
Po420
The battery is good but not good enough to check your alternator (I am no electrical expert but isnt that the point of the testing equipment)...go get a second opinion (oriellys, advance, or similar). I am still not convinced you do not have an issue with your charging system.

P0420 is for you bank 1 cat. I doubt this is causing your issue but still needs to be addressed soon.

Last edited by BigLou55; Sep 2, 2014 at 04:30 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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I nooo =(
Im Soo annoyed by this ****t
Im a 27 year old female and no absolutely nothing about cars except that they take me places were I need to go.. Tomorro if my car starts I'm driving to a mechanic
Thanks everyone
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 08:36 PM
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We had a Quest that had similar problems as your Maxima. At one point we found that a wire harness had been cut through quite badly, which sounds in line with your accident. The car definitely behaved better after. However I have to warn you that ultimately we had to dump the Quest as it still was not 100% and my wife was not willing to put up with the erratic behavior.
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