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cross threaded bolts while replacing lower control arm

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 04:49 PM
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cross threaded bolts while replacing lower control arm

While replacing the lower control arm, I was installing the new LCA and bolting the rear section up in to the subframe. I ran the bolts in by hand a few threads, then used my ratchet to tighten it up by hand. It didnt go very far in and got tight, I pressed on thinking it would be fine...but it got tighter so I stopped and pulled it back out.

The bolt threads are messed up and so are the threads in the subframe.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:04 PM
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probably have to use a tap and die to clean up the threads on both the subframe and the bolt. or get a new bolt from a junkyard car and just tap the threads on the subframe. been there done that, ive crossthreaded my share of bolts lol
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:07 PM
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Yeah, I went to a couple places looking for a tap/die but no one had one big enough. Ill try a few more stores tomorrow.

Really don't want to replace the subframe over this.
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:12 PM
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shouldnt have to replace the subframe, just have to find the right size tap. ive crossthreaded subframe bolts too, tap the subframe with a new bolt and good as new
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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Had this same issue with one of the control arm bolts on my 4th gen, apparently this happens fairly often. Luckily for me i discovered the problem before i tried forcing it in with a ratchet so my threads wernt messed up much too much.

I ended up having to next-day delivery a thread chaser (also referred to as tap and die) and ran that into the bolt hole over and over for about an hour. You MUST be careful and not too forceful and take your sweet **** time or you will damage the threads further and youll be REALLY hurting. There is special lubricant designed specially to aid this process - however i used some good ole PB blaster here and there and it turned out fine for me. Depending how mangled your threads are, you may wish to invest in the proper materials.

Since only the first couple threads of the bolt were slightly messed up, i just took a little hacksaw type thing i had laying around and CAREFULLY cleaned up the bolt threads with it. They do make a thread chaser type tool for bolts as well, however, so you may wish to simply buy that to save some time and effort and know its being done right.

Cant remember the measurements of the bolt threading (12mmx1.5??? Not sure if 4th and 5th gens share the same bolt sizes anyways) sorry. But heres a link for a generic harbour freight kit that seems to have good reviews and would contains the tools you need and more:

http://m.harborfreight.com/titanium-...-pc-60676.html

Certainly better brands exist, of course, so do your reseach and see what will suit you best. If you find the correct thread size you can find thread chasers for that particular size online if you dont want a whole kit. Good luck and hope this helps.
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:23 PM
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Awesome thanks for that info Slamrod.

Anyone know the bolt size/thread pitch info? Home Depot wasnt able to come up with the right size with their thread finder tool thing and it was too big of a bolt for the auto parts store I went to.

Thinking of trying out Tractor Supply tomorrow. Tractors have to have big bolts, right? haha.
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
While replacing the lower control arm, I was installing the new LCA and bolting the rear section up in to the subframe. I ran the bolts in by hand a few threads, then used my ratchet to tighten it up by hand. It didnt go very far in and got tight, I pressed on thinking it would be fine...but it got tighter so I stopped and pulled it back out.

The bolt threads are messed up and so are the threads in the subframe.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt
You need the size 14mmx 1.50iirc or(1.25)don't ask how i know
I can tell you later for sure when i get home i bought it at Ace Hardware...
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Haha ok I found a tap/die set for 14 x 1.5. while Im waiting

I was heading to Ace tomorrow anyway. Itd be great if they had what I need.
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
Haha ok I found a tap/die set for 14 x 1.5. while Im waiting

I was heading to Ace tomorrow anyway. Itd be great if they had what I need.
I'm 99.9% sure it's the 1.50 but don't wanna give out false info thru the .ORG
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nestorlugo
I'm 99.9% sure it's the 1.50 but don't wanna give out false info thru the .ORG
agreed!
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by matts95max

agreed!
Sorry for the wait bud ....ok im 100% sure its 14mmx1.50
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Slamrod

I ended up having to next-day delivery a thread chaser (also referred to as tap and die) and ran that into the bolt hole over and over for about an hour.

They do make a thread chaser type tool for bolts as well, however, so you may wish to simply buy that to save some time and effort and know its being done right.
The TAP is the part that's used to fix threads in the bolt hole, the DIE is the part that fixes the bolt...hence "tap and die"

In this pic, die on the top, tap on the bottom:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_15015.jpg
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
While replacing the lower control arm, I was installing the new LCA and bolting the rear section up in to the subframe. I ran the bolts in by hand a few threads, then used my ratchet to tighten it up by hand. It didnt go very far in and got tight, I pressed on thinking it would be fine...but it got tighter so I stopped and pulled it back out.

The bolt threads are messed up and so are the threads in the subframe.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt
Easy to do....tighten little by little and even as possible so they don't get cocked or slightly side loaded when installing the pivot link...The bolts are of the rolled design (having that smaller diameter shank) if you tighten it unevenly the weight of the LCA can slightly misalign the link placing a lilttle more unwanted tension on the untightened bolts, so that once you do start tightening it the side load is now some what destroying your threads. And yes the Tap is a M14 x 1.5, take your time Good luck!
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