Yes, and I bet that most burning is unrelated to rings if the precats are not the cause.

 

 

No, I didn't miss his point and the rant wasn't just for him. You can't blame defective rings when there's ZERO evidence.

 

Can you guys post the evidence of a cat fragments destroying the engine and what does it destroy exactly?

 

I was thinking that maybe the PCV system was having a problem. I replaced the valve and inspected everything. The hoses do not appear to have any oil residue in them.

 

It's bull shiiiit

imo

 

There is another thread with proof.
Feel free to search.

 

GBAUER & soonerfan come to mind.

 

I purchased my 03 2 years ago with 81k miles on it. The first 4k miles I ran Rotella T6 and I went through an extra 3 qts in that 4k miles.

I then switched to Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 and I've added 1/2 qt in 6k miles.

I'm very **** about the mechanical health of my vehicles. I was surprised how much better Amsoil is. ...I guess that's what should be expected from and actual TRUE synthetic and not the fake crap everything else is. Engine starts easy and quiet, better mpgs and virtually no oil burning.

 

I can vouch for the amsoil too. I bought my 02 6 spd 3 years ago at 79k. Was loosing good amount of oil. Of course the rear valve cover was leaking so replaced that. Been using amsoil signature series ever since then. Also been running tcw3 oil in the gas. Installed a catchcan. I dont loose a single drop of oil between oil changes and i check the oil level very regularly. 103k miles on the car now. Replaced the front valve cover recently and the inside was clean as a whistle. Never seen an engine that clean inside before. Now will this work for everybody i cant say but it worked for me. Cross my fingers my precats aint goin yet.

 

speaking of precats, I plan on gutting mine soon.....

 

BTW, what is the purpose of running 2 cycle oil?

 

Glad to hear, but not surprised. My ~30 years of personal experience with the product and feedback from tons of customers are consistent with your experience...reduced oil consumption and sparkling clean internals. How long are you running the oil between changes?

In case you weren't aware, AMSOIL also makes a TCW3.


It's not recommended by the manufacturer, but people use it as an additive for it's detergency and lubricity...I can't vouch for it, but many who use it swear by it

 

Ive been running the amsoil anywhere from between 7k to 9k miles between oil changes with no oil loss. Maybe im the 1% with a vq35 that doesnt loose any oil but i was when i first purchased the car so i dont know but Im a firm believer in this oil now from what ive seen and experienced. Also with the 2 cycle oil additive. Ya i have to try the amsoil brand some day. Good stuff. Thats my experience anyways.

 

I'm at 11k on my honda and ~6k on my Maxima both running SS 5w-30 and the good Amsoil filter. They've also both been in a hair over a year so time to change them both.

 

Where do you guys buy your Amsoil, and how much do you pay?

 

PM talkinghorse.
He's a distributer on here with good deals and REALLY good customer service.

 

When you say "the good Amsoil filter" are you referring to this? Any issue with switching to synthetic at 114K?

 

Yes...the AMSOIL "Ea" oil filter which has a wire-backed, full synthetic media. Link to data sheet: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2192.pdf

Depending on the size, these filters are designed to provide superior filtration for up to 1-year/15,000 miles on the smaller filters (like the Ea15k-13 or Ea15k-12 used on many Nissan's) or 25,000 miles/1-year on the larger filters.

Concerning your mileage, I have several customers who have converted their vehicles to AMSOIL at 100K or significantly higher...as long as the engine has been properly maintained and is in sound mechanical condition you won't have any issues.

See my ad in the Group Deals/Sponsor's section (AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants)...the products aren't as expensive as one would think

- Site Sponsor

 

Yes, that filter.

I switched to Amsoil SS at 230k miles on my 94 civic and it runs better than ever. Switch any time. If someone really thinks that switching to a real synthetic will hurt their engine, they had other underlying problems before and it isn't Amsoils fault.

It is expensive on an initial oil change....but realize that you may change your oil 3-4 times a year at ~$40 a pop....well, the ~$60 that I spent on ONE oil change obviously saves money....and time. I REALLY don' understand why people have such a hard time switching. I would've years ago but never had anyone sit down and explain things to me until a good friend of mine became a distributor.

 

so cliff notes.....

switch to synthetic, possibly 5w-30. and this efficient filter "Amosil EA Oil Filter"

?

 

^
synthetic would make the problem worse because it's thinner than conventional oil?

 

I'm actually burning less oil after switching to synthetic.

I did find myself replacing several o-rings and gaskets soon after, but after replacing the old seals I'm happy with the switch.
I'm sure they were in need of replacing soon anyways.
Engine internals look cleaner too.

Kinda thought it was just me..

 

I'm thinking of going with Amsoil. I usually do Mobil 1, bu AWeb's story sounds promising. Maybe even add a real catch can vs my home depot one.

 

Yes, I HIGHLY recommend Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 and the Ea filter. You can go up to 25k miles on that but I'm just going 10k.

 

I usually do about 8-10k, but after that the oil looks pretty bad/sludgy. But, I just ordered some Amsoil and the EA filter, which do you get, the 12 or 13 in the suffix of the PN?

 

Can you elaborate on what O-rings/gaskets you replaced after the switch? Including your cost/time involved?

 

Pretty cheap other than the shipping cost.
Went OEM.
Crank~pulley needed replaced anyways due to age, both half moon seals~and oil pump o-rings since the upper pan was dropped, every o-ring on sensors/engine side, I replaced the valve covers as well. All just maintenance really.
As for time involved, I'm not really one to ask because I work SLOW.

 

Either filter will work on your car. The filters have the same excellent construction and calibration of the by-pass valves are identical...only difference is that the Ea15K-13 is roughly an inch longer than the Ea15k-12. If you have the space, go with the longer filter.

Let me know if I can help with any products...see my ad in the Group Deals/Sponsor's Forum: https://maxima.org/forums/group-deal...icants-27.html

Thanks

 

It's crazy how small the filters are on these engines. The one on my civic with a 1.6L is ~50% larger.

 

Bigger =/ better

 

im playing devil's advocate, but Awebs story is at 86k, lets all just remember that, nothing to you Aweb, im just saying.... maybe u haven't experienced enough precat failure...

 

I agree, but at this point for me, it couldn’t hurt and it keeps my intervals nice and long. Also, I haven’t had pre-cats since December of 2004, which was 123,000 miles ago.

Also, that was a significant decrease in usage for AWeb.

 

yea so you are pretty much in his boat except better, as if he deleted them today at this point in time. and correct me if I am wrong but you burn oil anywho right? or no?

I agree, and also looking into these legit ebay catch cans, and am probably going to do the same thing convert to synth, and this special filter, I also have been doing the TWC3 stuff but I dont see why that has any relevance in this thread. ( maybe cleaner internals)

Talkinghorse, you might get quite a couple customers from this thread.

I just checked my oil since a 02-14-15 oil change at 05-15-15 (literally coincidental on 3 month mark) and the dipstick showed exact qt burned. (dipstick from H to L represents 1 qt) So I burnt 1quart in about 2,000 miles. or 3 months. (not much travelling)

 

Yes, that’s right, burning regardless of early life header swap. Recently seems to have not lost as much as usual. But let’s see, once I lose the next quart, I will get the Amsoil and swap it in, but it’s been sorta nice not burning much lately, but I haven’t driven much as of late. Also, what OCC are you going with? If you take a look at this thread, your head might spin, but it’s got a lot of good information.

http://www.infinitiscene.com/forum/t...eparator/page4

 

just to be safe, I live in the northeast with temps down to 0 , car sits outside.

can i still go to 5w-30synthetic from 10w30 conventional ?

from what I know correct me if I am wrong but 5w30 is meant for colder sitting conditions anyway vs 10w30 so I am actually better off switching to that weight regardless of synthetic etc. ?

 

Yes you can...no issue.

Generally speaking, yes. 5w-30 will flow better upon start up regardless of ambient temperature and it might give you slightly better fuel economy. I can't speak for the oil you're currently using, but the primary difference between AMSOIL Signature Series 5w-30 and 10w-30 is that the 5w-30 has a slightly lower pour point and it's slightly thinner at lower temps so it will flow better at start-up for less cold-start engine wear. They have the exact same viscosity at 100 deg C (212 deg F) and the High-temp-high shear viscosity is the same. They also have the same excellent TBN number of 12.6 and they offer the same outstanding wear protection when subjected to the 4-ball wear test (ASTM D4172)

 

Ok. I am a believer thus far.

I've used maybe 0.125 of a quart in 3k miles. I would have needed to add about 0.75-1 qt at this point.

Ordering some for the VK56 soon. Strange they use nearly the same filter (VQ35 & VK56), even though the VK requires ~1.5 more qts.

 

Back in 08/09/10 I used Amsoil 0w-30 and it drank it like koolaid. Would 5w-30 make any difference?

 

No.

Better off using 15w40 when warm and 5w40 when cold (or 0w40 in that freezer you live in). Has to be at least slightly better than 30.