I've been shared a very helpful doc related to the common IASC/ECU failure

https://drive.google.com/a/sellhi.ne...1fNlF5QjQ/view

The one interesting thing that I've heard nothing about (and I've spent A LOT of time searching and reading) is this:

"Fuse Replacement. Replacing fuse #58 (15A, in the Fusible Box next to the battery) with a 7.5A fuse provides a significant improvement over the OEM setup. We have experimented with different fuse sizes, with the following results: a) 3A fuse blows within minutes; b) 6A fuse blows within 10 days or so; c) 7.5A fuse has now lasted 4 for more than 8 months. The fuse costs $0.95 and can be swapped in/out in 30 seconds. The single 7.5A fuse does not provide a “guaranteed protection” (read the ), but we are reasonably happy with the result."

Has anybody done this? I like the fact that its cheap and simple, but it scares me to change the fuse amount without really knowing much about it. I'd hate to do this and then have a small spike (that normally would be within the specs of the circuit) blow that fuse and cause my car to immediately stall.

Anybody?

 

I have not done this my self so I cannot speak from experience. But knowing various pieces of information allows me to make some semi-educated comments.

To start with, I have read many posts by the author of that article you referred to, maxiiiboy and he seems to be pretty sharp. For me, that is a pretty good recommendation for doing this. He experimented with different fuse values and drove several months with the 7.5 amp fuse before writing the article.

You can pretty much always put in a lower amperage fuse in anything. Designers will specify a higher amperage fuse that is at least double what is needed. This helps cover start-up surges, the addition of extra/optional equipment and other reasons.

You are concerned with spikes in a circuit. Spikes are a bad thing in electrical equipment, they blow out transistors and other components. You shouldn't be having spikes to start with, so if the fuse blows, that would be a good thing as fuses are intended to be protection devices.

Go ahead and change the fuse. If you're not 100% comfortable, keep a spare 15 amp fuse in the glove box. You can consider yourself as part of maxiiiboy's field testing crew.

 

Cool, thanks. That's a good idea about keeping backup fuses. I don't know enough about the fuses. Are they just standard "mini" fuses or are they larger ones?

 

open up your fuse box and take a look, should be pretty straightforward

 

Yes, I have done it. I know a bit about it: no spike in 18+ months and works just fine. Should the fuse ever blow, I have a few spares (they are only $0.37 a piece). The fuse is labeled ENG CONT1.

Buy your fuse here: http://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=77075

Final note: Yes, Nissan engineers have done a lousy job at protecting the ECU of our cars.

 

I just did mine yesterday with no issues yet. Yes they are the mini blade type fuses. Unhooked my electronic engine mounts too just to be safe.

 

IF you disconnect the mounts, you should have the engine reving at over 1,000 rpm when you pull the plug. This way the motor mount is in Firm or driving mode. If the engine is turned off or idling when you unplug them, the engine mounts are in Soft mode and allows the engine to shake more.