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Hi guys, I appreciate your input on this subject.
My car has 135K miles on the odometer and is still running with the original alternator. I expect I'll have to replace it before too long. I would like to avoid the problems many members ran into, with having to replace an alternator two or three times before finally succeeding. I am considering the following:
Hi guys, I appreciate your input on this subject.
My car has 135K miles on the odometer and is still running with the original alternator. I expect I'll have to replace it before too long. I would like to avoid the problems many members ran into, with having to replace an alternator two or three times before finally succeeding. I am considering the following:
Remanufactured. Again, Rockauto sells units remanufactured by Bosch ($158 - $66 core), Denso ($196 - $50), and Hitachi ($297-45).
Does anybody have experience with the quality (or lack of) of the above parts?
Are there other good choices I should be looking at?
The alternators can go well over 200k. Like everything, it's a crapshoot plus environment. A spare isn't a bad idea, but if it's bad you'll lose your return privileges by the time you actually install it.
If your junkyard lists mileage of the vehicles, you could look for a low mileage one (I have seen VQs with under 100k before). Or looks for freshly replaced alternators (I see quite a few)
Parts store remans are always a gamble. They have lifetime warranties but who wants to keep swapping them out every few months, especially in this car where access is a PITA?
Remans directly from Hitachi, Denso, etc. should be better. Little more pricey than a parts store but worth the peace of mind.
That being said, alternators usually last a good while. Make sure no oil drips into it, battery's in good shape and all the connections are tight & clean.
Guys, thanks for your input. And Child, thanks for you kind offer.
Yes, the access to the alternator is a PITA, so you only want to do it once. If/when it happens, I'll probably go with one of the "direct reman" as you suggest (probably Bosch). I was tempted by the new TYC; however, after reading its reviews I concluded that about 1 in 4 fails within 3-4 months, not a chance I would like to take.
maxiiboy, I am one of those who is going thru alternator replacement in 3 months.
My OEM borke after 150K miles. Replaced it with reman Denso 3 months ago. Yesterday, that one broke too.
I have no choice now but to cough up the labor cost. Part is covered under warranty.
maxiiboy, I am one of those who is going thru alternator replacement in 3 months.
My OEM borke after 150K miles. Replaced it with reman Denso 3 months ago. Yesterday, that one broke too.
I have no choice now but to cough up the labor cost. Part is covered under warranty.
I got a NSA brand new alternator off Amazon and it lasted 5 years before crapping out. I then got a remanufactured Bosch and it was trouble right out the box. Battery light would flash everytime I got on the gas. Replaced it with another Bosch because it was under warranty. So far so good after 5 months. I would go brand new if I had to do all over again.
Thank you guys - this is great feedback.
So far, we got: Denso reman = NOGO; Bosch reman = NOGO. So, remans don't look too good. Not surprising and in line with the broader sentiment on this forum.
Re. "brand new", the two brands being sold by Rockauto.com are TYC and WPS. Based on Rockauto statistics (i.e., on their rate of returns), WPS is more reliable. I hope we get some real feedback on these two choices.
I am beginning to think that the OEM alternator, even at $335, looks more and more attractive. Especially, if you hate to crawl under the car and do the replacement as much as I do. I only want to do this once .....
Don't trust Champion rebuilt or Pure Energy. You could see about finding a local rebuilder for your current alternator. Mine was $90 Canadian rebuilt but I've only had it in a month.
I used a rebuilt from O'Reilly's Auto Parts on my 97 max and it was still going strong when I sold the car 2 years later. I put another O'Reilly rebuilt on my 2000 6 - 7 months ago and it out lasted the car.
FWIT, the alternators you get through Nissan are also rebuilt. That what the R on the part number means.
I used a rebuilt from O'Reilly's Auto Parts on my 97 max and it was still going strong when I sold the car 2 years later. I put another O'Reilly rebuilt on my 2000 6 - 7 months ago and it out lasted the car.
FWIT, the alternators you get through Nissan are also rebuilt. That what the R on the part number means.
I got an AutoZone unit for my 95 back in 2003 over 130k ago, and 13 years later it's still going strong.
it's very difficult to find a brand new alternator, only few manufacturer that do, such as TYC and Duralast Gold would offer them. Unfortunately you will find a lot of part stores and even dealer would be Reman. Good luck, sorry to hear that some of you guys have bad reman, I have seen that happens, but it uncommon, probably bad batch of reman.
I can't remember maybe o'realys I bought this one but
it's been months and months works like a champ. seems legit.
There's was a card in the box saying it was tested blah blah.
I can't remember maybe o'realys I bought this one but
it's been months and months works like a champ. seems legit.
There's was a card in the box saying it was tested blah blah.
If that's a 15938 at O' Reilly's ($159.99), probably reboxed, as Rock Auto also carries
a 15938 Pure Energy for $93.79. Probably the same alternator, big difference in price.
I went through three O'Reilly (and one other reman) alternators for my '02 last year... After getting tired of the labor costs, I finally picked up a junkyard one and it's still going strong!
Well' I too wish I could have done it all over again but If I could do it all over again I certainly wouldn't have bought another Nissan product. Its my 4th Nissan but this 2000 Infiniti just sucks compared to all my other Nissans before it. Even my 1988 Nissan Maxima Wagon ran circles around it in every way like comfort, handling and reliability. But' who needs all that when it has the bells and whistles? That old Maxima wagon had small recliners up front basicly and drives like its on rails. I say drives because I still see it all the time still going strong.
He!!' my neighbors 1996 Nissan Sentra is much more reliable than this car and he bought that car from our local junk yard wrecked with over 130k miles,now it has well over 400k last I looked so' hows that for embarrassing our Infiniti.
My Tundra still has both its original Toyota (Denso) starter/alternator at 342k miles and this is the first time I have even replaced a Japanese built cars starter/alternator while my cars been under 175k and both have went bad on this I30. Starter at 86k stranded me with no warning, numerous sensors and coil packs. My first Japanese vehicle was a 1970 Toyota Hilux I bought used in 1978 still had all its original parts except the timing chain, water pump and fan belt when I sold it. So did the 1974 Datsun pickup that followed it btw. Both were excellent trucks...
The fact is Nissan/Infiniti cars are no more reliable than our own American brand vehicles now that Nissan is no longer Japanese owned. Short lived alts, starters, water pump/timing chains and oil burning? Sound familiar, it should its exactly how we build our cars, well minus ours having seat/window motors failing all the time too!!
Both a friend & a neighbor here have sold their mid 2000 Nissans this year and bailed on Nissan over the typical sensor issues, plus had timing chain failure and both burned oil real bad with less than 100k miles on them. This stuff was unheard of before they were sold off, its just a real shame its became the norm for today's Nissans. My nephew thats been a Nissan mechanic for many yrs now told me Nissans are simply junk compared to where they once stood prior to their sale but it sure helps his wallet thicken up quite well. Seems that's the plan just like the big three.... This is my last Nissan folks so it's getting a cheapo alt installed then we're selling it!
Last edited by 123GO; 10-18-2018 at 10:58 AM.
Reason: Spelling
ok nice ! good luck on the next make ! anyway back on topic
i dont remember what I got, but i remember when I got it I wanted OEM and new, but I think i got some kind of REMAN OEM, as OEM is not made new any more for 15 year old cars.
this was 4 years ago, still kicking, I have a grounding kit which I think helps a lot in that department.
Installed another one from Advance in my G35 with no issue.
Originally Posted by 123GO
Well' I too wish I could have done it all over again but If I could do it all over again I certainly wouldn't have bought another Nissan product. Its my 4th Nissan but this 2000 Infiniti just sucks compared to all my other Nissans before it. Even my 1988 Nissan Maxima Wagon ran circles around it in every way like comfort, handling and reliability. But' who needs all that when it has the bells and whistles? That old Maxima wagon had small recliners up front basicly and drives like its on rails. I say drives because I still see it all the time still going strong.
He!!' my neighbors 1996 Nissan Sentra is much more reliable than this car and he bought that car from our local junk yard wrecked with over 130k miles,now it has well over 400k last I looked so' hows that for embarrassing our Infiniti.
My Tundra still has both its original Toyota (Denso) starter/alternator at 342k miles and this is the first time I have even replaced a Japanese built cars starter/alternator while my cars been under 175k and both have went bad on this I30. Starter at 86k stranded me with no warning, numerous sensors and coil packs. My first Japanese vehicle was a 1970 Toyota Hilux I bought used in 1978 still had all its original parts except the timing chain, water pump and fan belt when I sold it. So did the 1974 Datsun pickup that followed it btw. Both were excellent trucks...
The fact is Nissan/Infiniti cars are no more reliable than our own American brand vehicles now that Nissan is no longer Japanese owned. Short lived alts, starters, water pump/timing chains and oil burning? Sound familiar, it should its exactly how we build our cars, well minus ours having seat/window motors failing all the time too!!
Both a friend & a neighbor here have sold their mid 2000 Nissans this year and bailed on Nissan over the typical sensor issues, plus had timing chain failure and both burned oil real bad with less than 100k miles on them. This stuff was unheard of before they were sold off, its just a real shame its became the norm for today's Nissans. My nephew thats been a Nissan mechanic for many yrs now told me Nissans are simply junk compared to where they once stood prior to their sale but it sure helps his wallet thicken up quite well. Seems that's the plan just like the big three.... This is my last Nissan folks so it's getting a cheapo alt installed then we're selling it!
You're exaggerating. I currently have and had all original accessories for over 200k on multiple vehicles. Starters go out on time usually around 150+. If they burn a lot of oil in less than 100k, then they weren't changing the oil and were using junk (you know the reputation rev ups have?, buddy has one with about 250k and doesn't burn at all...b/c he used high quality oil). The timing chain you speak of was a known defect (supplier ****ed them hard) and the 6th gens are trash in general. This is what you get with US labor/design and cheaper parts. True, they never burned oil before at all, but that doesn't affect reliability if you're not an idiot.
VQ30dek is the best VQ made (aside from the new ones). I'll buy an i30 for cheap from ya lol
And you haven't worked on domestic garbage if you think they're as reliable lol. GM and chrysler alone tank the numbers so bad that Nissan would have to degrade 300+% lol. CVTs are junk through and through, but that's just status quo, now. Hell, even the new **** isn't that bad as long as you get rid of it by 120k LOL (maintained a 2010 murano with nothing ever serviced on it, she traded it in at about 105k for a new one, it would never have issues except for junk CVT).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-19-2018 at 09:24 AM.
Installed another one from Advance in my G35 with no issue.
You're exaggerating. I currently have and had all original accessories for over 200k on multiple vehicles. Starters go out on time usually around 150+. If they burn a lot of oil in less than 100k, then they weren't changing the oil and were using junk (you know the reputation rev ups have?, buddy has one with about 250k and doesn't burn at all...b/c he used high quality oil). The timing chain you speak of was a known defect (supplier ****ed them hard) and the 6th gens are trash in general. This is what you get with US labor/design and cheaper parts. True, they never burned oil before at all, but that doesn't affect reliability if you're not an idiot.
VQ30dek is the best VQ made (aside from the new ones). I'll buy an i30 for cheap from ya lol
And you haven't worked on domestic garbage if you think they're as reliable lol. GM and chrysler alone tank the numbers so bad that Nissan would have to degrade 300+% lol. CVTs are junk through and through, but that's just status quo, now. Hell, even the new **** isn't that bad as long as you get rid of it by 120k LOL (maintained a 2010 murano with nothing ever serviced on it, she traded it in at about 105k for a new one, it would never have issues except for junk CVT).
Ya' Im only going on 60 so I've never worked on US cars.. Please! I've worked on almost every make in this country at some point.
I'll be very happy to match brand knowledge reliability issues anyday. For more than 10yrs I sold (flipped) used vehicles (wholesale) both to and for our local car lots and individuals. I myself owned almost 200 vehicles in my name alone from 50's to present models, how many vehicles have you dealt with and owned? These Nissans today are nowhere near the cars they were prior to the buyout and anyone who believes they are has not owned any older Nissans very long. Nissan was very reliable but now they are going to **** because of their corps bean counters.
But' just like there are Ford and GM lovers in the world and both will swear by their reliability too there are some here who keep these for whatever reasons idk? Guess people don't mind all the problems and they have many.
To many owners though, their cars are a investment too and Nissan is a bad one. I suggest you go to a car auction then you'll know right away Nissans sell for about the same price as domestic today and that's sad!!
A simple look up the price comparison on NADA or KBB today for Max vs Camry, you'll see the resale numbers and they do represent what people buy and for many yrs the reliability & MPG for them drives prices up/down. Since MPG is about the same on both Nissans a low sale price is only because people today know that Nissans are not near as reliable like before.
But ya' dump it at 120k they are great cars...Wow!! My Toy has over 340k I'd drive it across country today, it still has lots of life. Still burns/leaks no oil between changes btw. unlike our Infiniti at just over 100k and both used Mobil 1 changed on schedule. Never take out Infiniti across country..Hell no... Its the first car to leave me stranded in well over 20yrs. Starter without warning completely failed..
200k miles on original Denso (Toy) alt/starters yep you do see them all the time....
The 3.5 and 4 cyl both suffered from burning oil and there were recalls and TSBs on both. Hello in there!!
Maybe you should call Nissan and tell them to send their crappy cars to you because you can make them not burn it. Oh' wait once it has 120k you'll advise them to "sell it"? Your a genius..lol.. But hey' call Nissan today and save their customers millions in repairs on under 120k mile Nissans! My nephew sees them come in daily as a Tech at Nissan. BTW he drives a new Toyota due to what he knows after being one for years...lmao
Ya' Im only going on 60 so I've never worked on US cars.. Please! I've worked on almost every make in this country at some point.
I'll be very happy to match brand knowledge reliability issues anyday. For more than 10yrs I sold (flipped) used vehicles (wholesale) both to and for our local car lots and individuals. I myself owned almost 200 vehicles in my name alone from 50's to present models, how many vehicles have you dealt with and owned? These Nissans today are nowhere near the cars they were prior to the buyout and anyone who believes they are has not owned any older Nissans very long. Nissan was very reliable but now they are going to **** because of their corps bean counters.
But' just like there are Ford and GM lovers in the world and both will swear by their reliability too there are some here who keep these for whatever reasons idk? Guess people don't mind all the problems and they have many.
To many owners though, their cars are a investment too and Nissan is a bad one. I suggest you go to a car auction then you'll know right away Nissans sell for about the same price as domestic today and that's sad!!
A simple look up the price comparison on NADA or KBB today for Max vs Camry, you'll see the resale numbers and they do represent what people buy and for many yrs the reliability & MPG for them drives prices up/down. Since MPG is about the same on both Nissans a low sale price is only because people today know that Nissans are not near as reliable like before.
But ya' dump it at 120k they are great cars...Wow!! My Toy has over 340k I'd drive it across country today, it still has lots of life. Still burns/leaks no oil between changes btw. unlike our Infiniti at just over 100k and both used Mobil 1 changed on schedule. Never take out Infiniti across country..Hell no... Its the first car to leave me stranded in well over 20yrs. Starter without warning completely failed..
200k miles on original Denso (Toy) alt/starters yep you do see them all the time....
The 3.5 and 4 cyl both suffered from burning oil and there were recalls and TSBs on both. Hello in there!!
Maybe you should call Nissan and tell them to send their crappy cars to you because you can make them not burn it. Oh' wait once it has 120k you'll advise them to "sell it"? Your a genius..lol.. But hey' call Nissan today and save their customers millions in repairs on under 120k mile Nissans! My nephew sees them come in daily as a Tech at Nissan. BTW he drives a new Toyota due to what he knows after being one for years...lmao
Only burning is only a real issue on models with defective cats for FWD and RWD with bad valve stem seals (which affects nothing). You're so butt hurt. And, CLEARLY, you have not worked on anything domestic in the last 20 yrs or you'd know how big of POS they are. Also, they are very difficult to repair due the designs made to deter DIYers. Junking cars at 150k or less is the new norm, now, better get used to it. Tons of CVTs are being used across all brands or they'll just all blow HGs and have 1,500 dollar water pump jobs like Ford lol.
BTW, you were using junk oil. Let me guess? 5w30? It's ****, so there ya go. You absolutely were not changing it on schedule (basically 4k for that trash) or it was abused. Should have been using 0w40/0w30 (anything real syn) or any 40 weight for that matter. VQs shear oil like your wife shears your back.
3.0s don't burn oil, pal. You got hosed if you bought it used. I guess my sister's 3.0 isn't at 200k with no problem whatsoever. It even goes for 10k oil changes when I don't get to it sooner...waaaahhhhhh.Rage some more. I've had about 10 of these cars. Your sample size of **** with **** maintenance means nothing. Only ACTUAL issue? Precats. Never coil packs. Never maf (except from sucking up water with true CAI). Starters at over 150k, sure. Altys? G35's mitsubishi crapped out in the 100 degree heat at 160k, but it's also 15 yrs old. Maxi altys keep going well over 200k.
I also like how you're trying to compare a 1970s vehicle (that's simple and already known to be very reliable) to a modern Jap cars, which are **** in comparison, but still better than domestic garbage.
And if you don't wanna be stranded, then quit buying automatics. A bad solenoid will do that to you. But...you know HOW I KNOW you suck at car repair? You could have just jumped the starter and been on your way, *****. GTFO. You're stuck in ancient times.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-23-2018 at 01:07 AM.
PFFFFT HAHAHAHAHA!
Child uv KoRn, you're such an a-hole. Haha I love it. Calls the old guy a *****. Hahaha, I cant stop laughing.
Funniest thing Ive seen all week. Thank you.
Well, you got me irritated. Your attitude of "I am the God, you are the dummies" is way out of line.
So, here we go.
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Only burning is only a real issue on models with defective cats for FWD and RWD with bad valve stem seals (which affects nothing).
What are you trying to say ???
Did you mean "oil burning" ? If so, you should have written so ... or are we supposed to guess what's in your mind ?
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
BTW, you were using junk oil. Let me guess? 5w30? It's ****, so there ya go. You absolutely were not changing it on schedule (basically 4k for that trash) or it was abused .... Should have been using 0w40/0w30 (anything real syn) or any 40 weight for that matter
Please explain why 5w30 is "thrash" while 0w40 is great.
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Only ACTUAL issue? Precats. Never coil packs. Never maf (except from sucking up water with true CAI).
FALSE.
2000SE/AT, original owner, currently at 155,000 miles.
I am on my 3rd MAF and a 3rd set of coils (original/OEM, then "grey dots" at 49K, now, two weeks ago, at 155K miles Hitachi's from Rockauto).
LAST: Please do not pollute this thread with your personal diatribes. This thread is about about reliable alternator replacements.
Well, you got me irritated. Your attitude of "I am the God, you are the dummies" is way out of line.
So, here we go.
What are you trying to say ???
Did you mean "oil burning" ? If so, you should have written so ... or are we supposed to guess what's in your mind ?
Please explain why 5w30 is "thrash" while 0w40 is great.
FALSE.
2000SE/AT, original owner, currently at 155,000 miles.
I am on my 3rd MAF and a 3rd set of coils (original/OEM, then "grey dots" at 49K, now, two weeks ago, at 155K miles Hitachi's from Rockauto).
LAST: Please do not pollute this thread with your personal diatribes. This thread is about about reliable alternator replacements.
I was polluting it? He's a ****ing idiot. I bet he cries himself to sleep after reading the thread with the guys posting pics of odometers with 350k. 3.0s did have more of a problem with coils. But it's not universal as I've now seen multiple people post with all original stuff at 350k. I mostly have/had 3.5s.
I did have a 2000 that was all original at 125k, but it was totaled.
Go to advance, use 25% off code and buy alternator, done.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-30-2018 at 01:52 AM.
I would never purchase an after market alternator from a box store. When my alternator stopped charging, I looked up a local alternator/starter repair shop. It turned out to be a one man shop with very good social media reviews. He charged $55 to replace the regulator while I watched. I gave him $60 and told him to keep the change. No issues with the alternator since then.
This one just showed up today, so I can't comment on its reliability. From the looks of its construction however, I imagine it will give me a few miles. Whatever you end up with, keep it protected. Ensure your plastic under covers and side covers are secure and minimize gaps. Do what you can to keep it clean and dry. Due to its proximity to the manifold and cat, the heat shield on the cat would help mitigate thermal exposure. Make regular checks for oil leaks from above and prevent oil contamination. Parts are like wounds, keep em clean, keep em dry.
02-16-2016, 10:28 PM
