I just got SES light on for idle air control. The person i purchased this vehicle from said he had just replaced it, so i am wondering why i would be getting this code now. I found something on the forum about a re-learn procedure?? I am going to try it tonight, however the car is running and idling perfectly. Could the re-learn procedure be the fix?? from what i understand, if the valve itself was faulty OR if it needs to re-learn, the idle would be acting funny which it is not. any help would be appreciated!!

 

You didn't say what code you got, so I'll assume it's P0505.
The failure associated with this code can cause a lot of problems, so you need to educate yourself first: Read this note https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...psNVBqUVk/view, and peruse this thread: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-seconds.html .

Once you get educated, try to eliminate the problem. Find out what the code is (I am guessing that it's P0505, but I could be wrong). It's possible that although your IACV was replaced, it failed again. Test it by measuring its resistance, as described in the note.
Re. the fuse replacement (15A -> 7.5A): Be aware that the 7.5A use reduces the risk, but does not eliminate the problem. There are people that have had their ECU fried even with 7.5A fuse.

 

Has it caused problems for you?

 

Sounds as though it could be the Power steering air control valve if it seems OK.

 

This was good for a grin. Your foul, little mind can come up with some doozies.

 

So what exactly is the air control valve?

 

If you don't know you shouldn't be offering advice.

 

I have an idea but it can cause the P0505.

It gets vacuum pressure from the throttle and when the wheel is turned the air sucks out from the intake air box by the filter.

 

 

The tardtech12 just keeps quoting the fsm for his poor excuses of advice ,making absurd assumptions during his vile comments that like a decomposing corpse in the ditch keeps getting worse as the time passes

 

Agreed, my concern is that someone will trust him based on the quality of the .Org without looking more into his history. I'd hate to see a new member waste their time, money or even damage their car. A lot of people come here with very little knowledge and might not realize he's a fake.

 

First of all, I know enough about cars to know that this has nothing to do with power steering.

Regarding the real issue, as I understand it, if I replace #58 fuse and it pops relatively quickly I should assume iacv is bad, correct?

The motor mounts can just be disconnected, and the coolant bypass can be done with no additional parts needed?

 

Relearn... there is a manual relearn from what I understand. It involved adjusting the TPS. It's an alternative method to not having a consult II.

There are members that will say you can disconnect the negative battery cable overnight too. I don't know if that's accurate.
PRE-CONDITIONING
NFEC0642S02 Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment. I Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle) I Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 99°C (158 - 210°F) I PNP switch: ON I Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger) On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, set lighting switch to the 1st position to light only small lamps. I Cooling fan motor: Not operating I Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position) I Vehicle speed: Stopped I Transmission: Warmed-up For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “FLUID TEMP SE” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V. For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second. 2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING” (previously mentioned) are in good order. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. 6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds. 7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown), then reconnect it within 5 seconds. 8. Wait 20 seconds. 9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the problem by referring to the NOTE below. 10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within specifications.
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 625±50 rpm A/T: 700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
NOTE: If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully, proceed as follows: 1) Check that throttle valve is fully closed. 2) Check PCV valve operation. 3) Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage. 4) Adjust closed throttle position switch and reset memory. (Refer to Basic Inspection, EC-111.) 5) When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable. Check and eliminate the cause of the problem. It is useful to perform “TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS — SPECIFICATION VALUE”, EC-143. 6) If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the problem and perform “Idle air volume learning” all over again: I Engine stalls. I Erroneous idle. I Blown fuses related to the IACV-AAC valve system.

 

...

 

Your wrong the Power steering has an air control vacuum within it if you have a 2001.
This vacuum relates directly with P0505.
It seems all your issues are listed within the idle air relearn... blown fuses

Nissan is a premium automotive company.
There is no way you can't get the code off unless it's installation error or you just aren't performing the procedure properly.
All the issues I've had were resolved immediately.
Check the steps in EC111 if it's a 2001 for extended procedures to get the issue off of your plate.
THE WIZARD has the FSM for whatever year of car your workin on in his signature.

 

You're still here? I left for a couple weeks thinking you'd be gone when I came back. No such luck I guess. Why do you continually try to prove people wrong? You quote the fsm and usually it's irrelevant information that doesn't pertain to the situation at hand. You are ruining this site for me and many others who try to be helpful to other members who are not as familiar with this make or model car. You continue to try and disprove other creditable and respected members opinions but yet you can't do your own mechanical work. You choose the name maximatech but nothing could be further from the truth. So why are you here? You've done nothing but continue to show everyone how little you know. On top of that you're confusing and probably having new members waste valuable time and money. Please just stop. You don't realize that you're embarrassing yourself?

 

new ECU fried in seconds
give us all a break!!

Even if you don't have an air control valve in the 2002
you should still thoroughly follow the Nissan instructions to relearn the idle speed.
It's all a process of elimination

come on guys Nissan isn't this bad they've been around a long time.

You guys need to be more thorough when you look into these issues.
It's not going to work out and your just going to keep making Nissan look like they've created a piece of crap.

 

This is coming from the guy who can't even install a battery without breaking it. The same guy who doesn't know what a fuse is. The same guy who bought a rusted out piece of crap even though he lives in an area full of rust free cars. The same guy who gives a new member a bogus way to test their coils so they can put a bad one back in their car. The list goes on...

It all looks easy when you're reading the FSM but taking your car to Firestone to have work done.

You say "give us all a break!!" but there is no "us" here. It's just you acting like a jacka$$ while the rest of us clean up after you so nobody steps in your crap and damages their car. I don't know where the mods are lately but if it were up to any of "us" you'd be gone. You're the one blemish on an otherwise great forum.

 

You're forgetting he also doesn't know the difference between the ecm and secu

 

^^^^^^^^^^Exactly^^^^^^^^

 

So i tested my IAC and it had no resistance so i know i need a new one (in addition to the sporatic idle of course). I bought a cheap one on ebay because if my ecu is bad i'd rather it ruin another $35 part than a $200+ factory part.

So, if my new IAC goes bad relatively quickly i can pretty much assume i need a new ECU, correct??

I did disconnect the motor mounts, and i will be doing the coolant bypass. My question is, let's say i end up getting a new ECU or rebuilding mine....what can be done to avoid having this all from happening again? Does changing #58 fuse, disconnecting the motor mounts and bypassing the coolant suffice to prevent this from happening in the future??

 

Probably. But the safe way to check it is to take out your ECU and do a "see & smell" test.

No.
If you change the fuse (#58, ENG_CONT1), and if your IACV fails again, it only means that your ECU will be fried by a current that will not exceed 7.5A, rather than 15A. (This is a somewhat simplified explanation, but let's leave it at that).

To eliminate the possibility of a future occurrence, I only know of one solution: To install a proper fuse into each of the two IACV coil branches. Unfortunately, this is not easy because: a) One would have to cut/splice the harnes, AND b) It may be quite difficult to choose proper fuse value - something between 3A and 6A, due to issues with "steady state" vs. "pulse" mode of the STA509 transistor.

A more practical solution is to drastically reduce the possibility of a future occurrence, by:

• Replacing your IACV with a high quality part, such as the OEM part or other, AND
• Implementing coolant bypass - this should prevent IACV wiring from being eaten by the coolant, and the resulting failure.

I feel this second solution will never fail - not during the remaining lifetime of your car.

 

I once bought one of those $40 ebay IACVS and it was no good. It burnt my new ecu.