Hi, I have a 2001 Maxima SE 3.0 with 149,500 miles on it, and I bought it at 146,000. Now that it's getting colder out it does't want to start start. I'll start the car and it'll immediately shut off, or it'll catch itself around 300-400 RPM. If I give it a little touch on the gas it'll save itself and idle normally. If I start the car when it's already warmed up it's fine. Just for reference I always use 93 gas. My SES light is off, however I hooked up my scanner to it and I have a pending P0325 that randomly comes and goes.

So far since I've gotten it I've changed the air filter, the oil, and transmission fluid along with the filter. I also changed my spark plugs with Laser Platinums, and cleaned my MAF. This didn't help with my stalling problem, but it restored some lost power/acceleration.

The only thing I haven't cleaned yet is my TB and my IACV. I was told when I bought the car that the IAVC shorted out the ECM, so that was fixed and a coolant bypass was done so it wouldn't short again.

I have a video of the car stalling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_9Q...ature=youtu.be

It a little high until it warms up. Probably because it's starting to get pretty cold out (20-30f).

 

This looks like an IACV problem to me. Measure your IACV resistance - it should be ~ 22 Ohms across each of the four half-coils. You can do this without removing it from the car.
I don't think your intermittent P0325 code has anything to do with your starting problem.

 

I'll try that in the morning and see what it says. Thanks

 

curious if this was the issue. Thanks!

 

Try also some fuel additive like STP or Sea Foam on a full tank of gas.

 

And how is that snake oil going to fix a failing or dirty IACV?

 

I'm about 90% sure this is the issue. It's cold as hell now so I haven't done any work on my car. I'm getting access to a buddies garage in a few days so I can let you know for sure. I've narrowed everything down though and it has to be the IACV. It's either dirty or shot. The car still randomly dies on cold starts unless I give it a little gas. No issues with idle when cold, or warmed up.

I'm going to be removing and cleaning my throttle body, and IACV so I'll let you know how it goes. The coolant line was bypassed so I shouldn't have an issue with the ECM getting fried.

 

Lots of Technron made no difference. Changing my spark plugs, air filter, and cleaning my MAF restored some lost power/acceleration more than anything.

 

Nothing tried, nothing done. Keep us posted in your fix!

 

My IACV had 2 plugs with 3 coils each. Top was brown, bottom was grey. I tested the wire harness to the IACV and it's getting 12 volts. I couldn't get a good angle on the bottom 3 coils, but the to 1&2, 2&3 tested out to 4.71. Which just confirms the suspicion that it's a faulty IACV. I'm still going to try cleaning it and the TB though. I'll buy a new one if it comes down to it.

 

Do the coolant bypass (and unplug motor mount(s)) before the ECU is fried while you're in there.

 

The coolant bypass was already done.


So here's something funny. I haven't gotten a chance to clean the TB/IACV yet, however I took my car to the shop because my headlights were flickering and my idle was pulsing with the flickering. They replaced the alternator, and cleaned the grounds, and replaced some of the corroded wiring from the battery terminals. Well they messed something up because my battery and brake light were flickering and my alt was putting out nothing. BUT the car started just fine, no stalling. Even after sitting for a day. They said the alt they gave me was defective, but I'll see after they replace it again if it starts stalling again. I have a optima yellow top so I wasn't concerned about the car dieing on me because I only drove it to the shop and back (5 min), and started it a couple times to see if I could get the alt working myself.

 

Alt's working again, wasn't burnt they just messed something up putting it back together. Car still starts fine.

 

Most folks thinks that following the Maintenence schedule is enough to take their vehicles to the end of the earth. Guess again. The schedule doesn't talk about using STP fuel additives, or wax car x times / year, or wash down the engine bay with gunk or WD40.........

A fault is most times caused by something else than the actual , but what do we do, fix the symptom, and not looking at other areas.

What am saying is I use seafoam aka snake oil in my tank and engine after watching an auto program on tv plus read up online about this product. Oh, my $XxxK SS Camaro that is a garage queen is currently under seafoam, plus $Xxxxx motorcycle, plus lawnmower., plus Tundra, plus maxima.

Not telling anyone to use it, however this '11 maxima will take me to another 278k miles like my 05 with the help of seafoam and other restorative product and maintenance

 

Kevin Cope..... so your saying the issue was the alternator and not a faulty iacv? Just curious.