Bad LCA bushings?
#1
Bad LCA bushings?
Lately, the steering has gotten pretty sloppy on my I35. On slightly bumpy roads, the vehicle wanders and the steering wheel twitches left and right. The same thing happens on smoother roads but to a lesser extent.
A few months back, my mechanic replaced the leaking high pressure power steering hose. At the same time, he did a general inspection and said the suspension looked good. There was dried fluid on some suspension components so I hosed everything off afterwards at a car wash and moved on with life.
I read LCA bushings can get damaged from the leaking fluid on these cars. I haven't gotten a chance to jack up the front end yet but are my symptoms consistent with bad LCA bushings? Oddly enough, I don't hear any noises.
A few months back, my mechanic replaced the leaking high pressure power steering hose. At the same time, he did a general inspection and said the suspension looked good. There was dried fluid on some suspension components so I hosed everything off afterwards at a car wash and moved on with life.
I read LCA bushings can get damaged from the leaking fluid on these cars. I haven't gotten a chance to jack up the front end yet but are my symptoms consistent with bad LCA bushings? Oddly enough, I don't hear any noises.
#2
It sounds like the control arm bushings may have failed. They're relatively easy to inspect from under the car with a flashlight. The bushing is very thick. Chances are you'll see a split in one or more of them. You can also use a pry bar to move the control arm near the bushing. If the bushing is shot you'll be able to move it a good bit and maybe even see the wheel move.
Oil and fluid leaks will destroy just about any rubber on a car.
Oil and fluid leaks will destroy just about any rubber on a car.
#4
I checked out the LCA bushings the other day when I was changing the oil and they looked good. Incidentally, I decided to rotate the tires and the now car handles normally again. It had been like 20K miles since the last rotation so the front tires were significantly more worn than the rears.
Will keep monitoring, but for now the issue seems solved.
Will keep monitoring, but for now the issue seems solved.
#6
The boots are slightly torn but there's no play.
I could wait until they develop slop but the job's cheap & easy enough that I'm gonna knock it out soon. I made a thread the other day asking about brand recommendations. Found out that Beck/Arnley tie rods are made in Japan so I'm going to pull the trigger on those.
I could wait until they develop slop but the job's cheap & easy enough that I'm gonna knock it out soon. I made a thread the other day asking about brand recommendations. Found out that Beck/Arnley tie rods are made in Japan so I'm going to pull the trigger on those.
#7
The boots are slightly torn but there's no play.
I could wait until they develop slop but the job's cheap & easy enough that I'm gonna knock it out soon. I made a thread the other day asking about brand recommendations. Found out that Beck/Arnley tie rods are made in Japan so I'm going to pull the trigger on those.
I could wait until they develop slop but the job's cheap & easy enough that I'm gonna knock it out soon. I made a thread the other day asking about brand recommendations. Found out that Beck/Arnley tie rods are made in Japan so I'm going to pull the trigger on those.
#11
#12
Well the system was designed and evolved so I just called it that.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
#13
Well the system was designed and evolved so I just called it that.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
#14
Well the system was designed and evolved so I just called it that.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
since the outer ends here are the "screw on" type you may have to remove the inner boot and screw the rods in or out to account for the thread difference? I can't imagine it being that easy where the new end just screws right on bringing you perfectly to where the old one was.
The outers don't just screw on and tighten down. They screw on to the arm and are adjusted by how far you thread them down. There's plenty of room for adjustment. Once they're adjusted there's another nut that gets torqued down to lock it all together.
You basically get it as close as you can to how it was and get an alignment after you're done.