I hear a lot about the ECU and how it has to be reset. How do I reset the ECU after I install a new MAF?

 

You don't have to reset the ECU for a MAF replacement.

 

Hopefully it's a Hitachi...

 

I bought one from AutoZone to try it, see if it is the MAF that is causing the issues, then going to order Hitachi.

I just installed the new MAF and am seeing little change. How many miles do I have to drive for the ECU to re-learn with the new MAF and see performance change?

The reason I changed the MAF is because I was getting really bad gas mileage, incredible lag in acceleration, and it felt like the car was staying in gear way too long.

 

Have you scanned for codes?

Non-OEM MAFs may not work with the car right out-the-gate.

 

How many miles should I drive?

Also, my fresh air intake hose, is insanely dry! In fact, I installed new engine mounts that are aftemarket, and cause some minimal vibration, could it be that the vibrations have caused a cracked in the hose, and causing air problems.

It really feels like my engine is not getting enough power...like its slugging constantly....not enough air, or gas or something...

 

A vacuum leak will usually show itself at idle and cruising but get better under acceleration.

How old are the plugs? The front plugs are easy enough to pull and check.

Are there any codes?

 

What plugs? What are you talking about?

No codes or better put, no CEL.

 

spark plugs

 

Yes, looks like a MAF problem.
BUT, you are wasting time&money with aftermarket parts - get the Hitachi MAF, Rockauto sells them.

 

Well ya know folks try loading aftermarket because the blue book value drops so low and you kind of feel that pricey OEM parts is kind of getting burned which would really make a great discussion.
You just have to take a loss for the sake of successfully achieving what your trying to achieve. Getting the problem off the table.

 

How many miles do I drive before I should see improvement, with the aftermarket part in....I want to see if it fixes the problem, then order a Hitachi.

 

It shouldn't take any time to see improvement if the MAF was the problem.
A bad MAF can show all sorts of symptoms from subtle to flat out not running.
If the new MAF hasn't changed anything I'd say that's not the problem.

 

I'm not sure what year you have, but it it's a 2002 or 03, get this MAF. I bought it back in 9/2015 and it's been as good as OEM. $120

 

There has def been a chance since I changed out the maf, but it is not back to what originally the car felt like. I think it may be because the MAF I put on is not exactly for a 2001.

http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...839342_0_24655

Though it says it is a good fit for a 2001, the temperature sensor is on the outside, which is 02-03 models only.

 

http://imgur.com/a/yIk7q

Is this a normal rpm?

 

Idle speed M/T: 625±50 rpm
A/T: 700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)

 

You could try disconnecting just one side of the diode. Other than that I believe they're the same MAF. It's just pinched in where the wire connects. If that works remove it all together.

 

I just got my Hitachi MAF in.


Are you guys sure the ECU does not need to be reset? The seller even told me to reset ECU when I put the new MAF in....

 

May as well. Just disconnect the battery for an hour. You can tell when it resets if you put a CD in the radio and it pops out. After just run the engine at idle for a while to let the ECU learn and the engine to warm up and then go do some normal driving so that it adapts to everything else.

 

My CD always pops up the second I unplug the battery....


Is there a benefit to installing the new Hitach housing too? Or can I just keep the old one on there?

 

Don't bother to install the housing - it's a lot quicker to just swap the MAF itself. Do it in the evening, then disconnect the battery overnight.

 

When I went to remove my MAF to clean it, I ended up taking the whole housing out because one of screws holding the MAF in rusted in place.