Replaced bank 1 cam sensor - car won't turn over
#1
Replaced bank 1 cam sensor - car won't turn over
So I recently replaced my cam sensor for bank 1 and now my car won't start. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly but I'm not sure why it won't turn over.
#5
#8
I still have the old sensor in since I had to go to class and work today but I noticed after I shut my car off at work, the car wasn't getting locked by the key fob. No lights flashed or anything. I try to start the car and absolutely nothing happens. Doesn't crank over or anything.
#10
Dude I'm a broke college kid, I can't just run out and spend 300 + on this. Especially when my car won't start anymore. just don't understand why the car would run on my way to college and on my way to work but as soon as I shut it off and try to start it nothing happens. Sorry for the inconvenience
#12
I'll have to try that. Before I do, are there any retailers that sell the OEM sensors cheaper than the dealer? I tried checking my local Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts and they didn't have any in store
#13
#14
Update: So apparently the connection to the battery got loose because when I went to jump start it, I pulled the red cap and the battery terminal came off with it. Tightened it up and I was back running.
Also noticed that my DTE was pretty good, reaching a high of 395. My previous highest DTE was 367 but I used to get 320 - 333 after filling up prior to all these issues. After all these issues I've been getting low DTEs ranging from 270 - 300 so it's good to see something improve for once.
Also noticed that my DTE was pretty good, reaching a high of 395. My previous highest DTE was 367 but I used to get 320 - 333 after filling up prior to all these issues. After all these issues I've been getting low DTEs ranging from 270 - 300 so it's good to see something improve for once.
#17
Dude I'm a broke college kid, I can't just run out and spend 300 + on this. Especially when my car won't start anymore. just don't understand why the car would run on my way to college and on my way to work but as soon as I shut it off and try to start it nothing happens. Sorry for the inconvenience
You are lucky, you had a code, you had a safe drive to your destination.
I went to a dealer w no codes asking why my car shut off while driving and almost killed me and other peopel.
they checked the sensors and said the look ok... 2 weeks later its acting weird w un explainable things.
thanks to the org and listening to the small details of using OEM and replacing all 3 the problems went away.
The org helped me more than an almighty dealership.
I get the broke college thing...but health over money... you just didn;t experience a near death sympton with the sensors.
oh and i tried the crap sensors..(for many reasons, one being i tried to specifically ask for OEM, and didnt get oem) .. came back almost exactly a year later (thank god I knew what it was)
#18
Bit the bullet and bought all three sensors (OEM) from Nissan parts usa. Total was $276 (screw shipping costs lol). Much better than dropping close to $400 on these sensors. I can do the position sensors myself but I am not too sure about how to replace the crankshaft sensor, apparently it's under the car.
#19
Bit the bullet and bought all three sensors (OEM) from Nissan parts usa. Total was $276 (screw shipping costs lol). Much better than dropping close to $400 on these sensors. I can do the position sensors myself but I am not too sure about how to replace the crankshaft sensor, apparently it's under the car.
You can buy OEM sensors (they are all made by Hitachi) from Rockauto.com. You should be able to get all three for under $150, so you overpaid a bit. For example, the Camshaft sensor (by Hitachi) is $45.79: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431954&jsn=380, or Crankshaft/Hitachi (front/lower, $43.79): http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431954&jsn=390.
Good luck!
#20
If things couldn't get worse I broke the bolt when trying to remove the sensor and I couldn't get it out with my magnetic wand like last time. Some suggested to drill but with no success. Ending up breaking the drill bit too
Edit: bought 2 more drill bits, still drilling
Edit: bought 2 more drill bits, still drilling
Last edited by mo neenja31; 04-23-2017 at 01:27 PM.
#23
- Clean the Throttle Body,
- Clean/replace the MAF,
- Clean electrical connectors, and tighten ALL grounds (no offense, but the car looks messy/dirty and you already had one case of bad connection, so make sure there are no other problems of this type),
- Check your coils, as suggested earlier.
Good luck!
#24
My luck with the Delphi sensor from Rock Auto was pretty good.
If your car dies, you may have more than just 1 cam sensor broken. I would look into replacing the 2nd bank cam sensor and crank sensor as well. They are on their way out anyway at this age.
If your car dies, you may have more than just 1 cam sensor broken. I would look into replacing the 2nd bank cam sensor and crank sensor as well. They are on their way out anyway at this age.
#25
yes all 3 or walk home.... no brainer
#26
With new sensors, it's time to look elsewhere. I would:
- Clean the Throttle Body,
- Clean/replace the MAF,
- Clean electrical connectors, and tighten ALL grounds (no offense, but the car looks messy/dirty and you already had one case of bad connection, so make sure there are no other problems of this type),
- Check your coils, as suggested earlier.
Good luck!
- Clean the Throttle Body,
- Clean/replace the MAF,
- Clean electrical connectors, and tighten ALL grounds (no offense, but the car looks messy/dirty and you already had one case of bad connection, so make sure there are no other problems of this type),
- Check your coils, as suggested earlier.
Good luck!
#29
If things couldn't get worse I broke the bolt when trying to remove the sensor and I couldn't get it out with my magnetic wand like last time. Some suggested to drill but with no success. Ending up breaking the drill bit too
Edit: bought 2 more drill bits, still drilling
Edit: bought 2 more drill bits, still drilling
#31
To the OP...
I don't understand why you:
A. Didn't do as suggested and get Hitachi oem parts from Rockauto at about half of what you paid.
B. Why you aren't pursuing the code that apparently you have from the old sensor. Somebody responded to you about a code you had???
C. Why you don't replace all 3 sensors since you have all 3 new sensors...then see what happens?
This issue seems to be spinning in circles with no forward movement except the bolt issue, now. I'm not good with solving those types of issues.
PB Blaster is your friend. Buy a can. I've grown to love using it. It helps a TON.
I don't understand why you:
A. Didn't do as suggested and get Hitachi oem parts from Rockauto at about half of what you paid.
B. Why you aren't pursuing the code that apparently you have from the old sensor. Somebody responded to you about a code you had???
C. Why you don't replace all 3 sensors since you have all 3 new sensors...then see what happens?
This issue seems to be spinning in circles with no forward movement except the bolt issue, now. I'm not good with solving those types of issues.
PB Blaster is your friend. Buy a can. I've grown to love using it. It helps a TON.
#33
Replaced both banks. Car starts up instantly this time but still does out on me. Gonna attempt to change the crankshaft sensor but I'm not exactly too sure where it's located
#35
Read the codes it throws before it dies!
Reading codes must be the 1st step when dealing with OBD II enabled cars.
Clear the pending code, start the engine, if it dies, read the new code it throws.
Reading codes must be the 1st step when dealing with OBD II enabled cars.
Clear the pending code, start the engine, if it dies, read the new code it throws.
#36
To the OP...
I don't understand why you:
A. Didn't do as suggested and get Hitachi oem parts from Rockauto at about half of what you paid.
B. Why you aren't pursuing the code that apparently you have from the old sensor. Somebody responded to you about a code you had???
C. Why you don't replace all 3 sensors since you have all 3 new sensors...then see what happens?
This issue seems to be spinning in circles with no forward movement except the bolt issue, now. I'm not good with solving those types of issues.
PB Blaster is your friend. Buy a can. I've grown to love using it. It helps a TON.
I don't understand why you:
A. Didn't do as suggested and get Hitachi oem parts from Rockauto at about half of what you paid.
B. Why you aren't pursuing the code that apparently you have from the old sensor. Somebody responded to you about a code you had???
C. Why you don't replace all 3 sensors since you have all 3 new sensors...then see what happens?
This issue seems to be spinning in circles with no forward movement except the bolt issue, now. I'm not good with solving those types of issues.
PB Blaster is your friend. Buy a can. I've grown to love using it. It helps a TON.
- I̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶p̶u̶r̶s̶u̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶o̶d̶e̶,̶ ̶w̶h̶i̶c̶h̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶w̶h̶y̶ ̶I̶ ̶b̶o̶u̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶s̶o̶r̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶r̶s̶t̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶.̶ ̶M̶y̶ ̶m̶e̶c̶h̶a̶n̶i̶c̶ ̶t̶o̶l̶d̶ ̶m̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶u̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶s̶o̶r̶s̶
- I'm going to try to replace the crank sensor when it's not raining out. Does anyone have a good picture of the location of this btw? I found a diagram but it's not too helpful
EDIT: Just saw the other posts about pursuing the code it throws now, I'll have to cop an OBII scanner
Last edited by mo neenja31; 04-27-2017 at 08:54 PM.
#39
Watch this video, youtube and google can be quite helpful!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtR5zvqwOpo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtR5zvqwOpo
#40
Bought a OBII scanner, cleared the codes for the cam position sensors and the car starts and runs! Still getting some other codes. I got P0113 & P0113, so hopefully cleaning the MAF sensor as someone else suggested
Last edited by mo neenja31; 04-29-2017 at 09:28 PM.