Hello everyone,

I finally installed the new MAF sensor I bought which is supposed to be a nissan OEM part. Has anyone used this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190677120349...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is the one I got. After installation, I felt a huge difference with the car. Now when I press the pedal, I get immediate acceleration, but I'm still having trouble. Even though it feels better, it still feels like the engine is not working properly, as in it is just not get the right mixture of air and fuel, even though I have changed the MAF.

When I turn on the car, from cold, it just dies.


Once the car warms up a bit, this stops happening.

A while back, I had my mechanic change my starter as it had died, and right after the change, the first few times I started the car, this had happened but the problem never occurred again, only now.

Could a bad O2 sensor cause this problem? My CEL came on months back, for an O2 sensor, but my mechanic just wiped it and it never came back. Could it be dead?

I've also noticed that the car exhaust has been extra smelly, as in gasoline like.

 

My guess is that MAF is no good either, Ebay is not a great idea IMO for A MAF sensor.
If you have a auto zone by ur house, get one for 90$ and try that instead.....mines been good since the last one that died over 6 years ago or more, I can't even remember its been so long.

 

Does the car start OK when you step on the gas?
If so, it could be your IACV.

 

I'm pretty sure the part is real, the ebay store is huge, it is a big company, and they are highly rated.

If I press on the gas when I start the car, to prevent the revs from falling, the car will start.

So, nothing on the O2 sensor or the smell?

 

The smell indicates there is too much gas and not enough air. Or perhaps bad pre-cat.
Bad IACV would cause this, as could a bad/leaking injector, or perhaps a bad front O2 sensor. Least likely, IMHO.
Have you checked your codes?

 

Did you get a reprogram?

 

When the IAC on my SE blew up it did the same thing. It would start then not idle and die. Turns out my IAC seal failed and coolant short circuted my wiring harness frying the idle control chip (STA-105?) inside my ECU. I'm new to these maxima's and only had one for 2 months. Hell mines still up on jack stands because im repairing the transmission shift solenoids. I bought my car with an IAC code and a torque converter solenoid code. Torque converter solenoid ended up being dead.

 

disconnect the maf harness and then plug it back

 

Dude stop going crazy and just try another MAF sensor lol, seriously those Ebay ones are crap.

 

Listen to me....People here saying reprogram or reconnect it lol....I'm sure he can plug A clip in right lol or reprogram what lol no need for none of that ......just go get the darn MAF from Autozone, if it still does the same thing just return it and don't tell them you tried it cause theres no returns on electrical parts that been used. Easy solution IMO.

 

i experienced the same issue the last time i changed my throttle body. for some reason the ECU was not reading the MAF sensor properly and the solution was was as simple as unplugging and re-plugging the MAF sensor harness. good luck

 

you may want to check your throttle body as well. a dirty valve will cause an engine to idle rough and stall

 

If it was running ok before the new air flow meter then the issue is most likely associated.
The seller specifically lists a reprogram as part of the installation. He's got some spelling issues in the ad which would immediately raise a red flag!

 

is it on warm start ups or cold start ups?

 

I purchased a maf for my 01 from rock auto...installed it and never looked back. no programming needed.

 

Well did you disconnect the battery after to reset the ECU? Maybe that's all that needs to be done here?