RID3R

I cant get an answer in the infiniti section maybe someone will see it hear.

Im stumped and wondering if anyone else has encountered the same problem as i have encountered. I have a 2002 i35 auto with 204K that is in Limp mode and cant solve it. Car started to over heat from going uphill with the AC on and outside temps where in the 90's. There are no codes in even with an OBDII reader. On flat ground 2100 or 2200 RPM is the limit and uphill starts to lose speed to 5 MPH and RPM drop to around 1500RPM , in park 3k RPM and hits limit.
MAF and Cam postition sensors replaced, checked fuses and relays, all good.
Both pre-cats gutted, new O2 sensors. checked knock sensor and coolant temp sensor by unplugging and car threw CEL right away so they work.
If anyone has had this problem please let me know only thing left is maybe dead ECU or fuel pump going out but from my tests it seams to be working.

Cotozic

Limp mode for me has always been from a bad MAF sensor. I've had tons of used ones and a new one fail on me. Some are just duds. If you didn't replace with a new OEM, I'd say it's likely that that's the culprit. I've had luck with the Hatachi sensor on my turbo car.

MichMaxFan

I had a bad maf once and it didn't throw any cel lights. I can't remember the symptoms but I think it was very sluggish and believe I've read that it can or will limit the rpm to around 2000.I

At the time I didn't know you could clean them but I still have the old one. Maybe you can get some maf cleaner and try that.

RID3R

I bought a Delphi MAF sensor the one that was in it was some junk china stuff. If i plug the old one in it instantly throws a code and dies.

RID3R

So little update, i took her around the block and this time she wouldnt go above 1800 and as soon as i start going uphill she dropped to about 1200 rpm and under 5 mph. If i step on the throttle engine gets loud as if its sucking in alot of air but no fuel is being add.

maxiiiboy

Well, you tried to save a few dollars but buying the Delphi sensor was a mistake. Get the OEM/Hitachi one.

RID3R

The car isnt worth the 500 for the oem one its going to the scrap shortly l, it has damaged cylinder walls from the cats burns about 2 quarts of oil ever 300 miles. Will probably pick another one up from the parts store to make sure its not the maf so i can return it if its not.

SubwayVQ

The oil burning would have made me sell/scrap it before anything else.

But before you do scrap it, try parting it out to get some money back. Like if the interior is in good shape.

RID3R

So little update got a new maf from rockauto under warrenty and car is doing the same thing. I ran a shop snap on computer and the maf voltages and air ratio where all in speck.
The car is getting worse, today i let it idle for probably 30 mins and it idles perfectly but there is now a loud whistle coming from the intake area at idle it was never there, and when i hold the throttle down it will hit almost 2k rpm and while im still holding the throttle the rpms go down than come back up. If i press the throttle more the rpms will drop and car dies.
My guess now is maybe clogged fuel filter or clogged secondary catalytic converter?
Getting Really tired of this car lol

crisstyle21

I had an issue like this where I almost spent a couple of gees to swap the tranny and It just happened to be the tranny coolant sensor. The best $30 spent