freezer

I'm nearing completion of my 5.7 gen swap see here for progress.

Anyways I wanted to post here to get a larger audience to assist me. It's been a couple months since I pulled the motor and while I did my best to remain organized, there are a couple items I don't remember where they belong.

First up is the negative battery cable bracket. It seems awkward every place I've tried it.

Next up is the mystery bracket. This one I'm not sure if I need to reuse or if it was on the old intake manifold??

A couple of questions I have for those well initiated with 5.7 gen swaps. What should be done with the bracket on the power steering hose? Will it bolt up somewhere or does it just need to be tied out of the way? Visibility in there is terrible.

I want everything to be really tidy so I'm thinking of cutting off the bottom "tab" of the block (seen inside the power steering belt at bottom left of timing chain cover) so I can fasten the oil pressure switch harness to the oil pan? I have already disposed of my old motor and I don't remember if that tab was there on it.

Thanks for your help!

SubwayVQ

The mystery bracket is a bracket used to hold wires in place. Off the top of my head, I know there's one on the front head in front of the valve cover and one one the driver side of the intake manifold. They have one of those zip tie clips in them and hold the wire/harness to the side.

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for those bolt specs in your last update, good to know if I ever decide to do a swap.

freezer

Update. The battery negative cable bolts to the bottom middle of the coolant crossover. Don't know how I didn't see it before.

The mystery bracket would go on the head to the right of the O2 and CKP plugs but the newer valve cover overlaps the bolt hole so I'm leaving it out.

The power steering hose does bolt up to the head fine. At first it seemed like I was making it go somewhere it didn't want to but it's really not too bad getting that bolt in when the intake manifold is off.

I cut the tab off the timing cover to allow the harness to bolt up to the oil pan. Then I remembered the harness was also behind the power steering pump mounting bolt so I loosened off the pump and stuck it in behind there too.

freezer

Got it running on Saturday!

Things left to do:

Find nut for my ball joint. Not sure where that's disappeared to...

Need some help with this one... Figure out how this clip is supposed to go back on my shifter, I'm missing a piece I'm sure but not sure what??

SubwayVQ

In the second pic, it looks like something passes through the middle and the little metal spring clip holds it in place.

freezer

So, I grabbed a 6th gen shift mechanism from the PicknPull and it turns out they changed the pin, here's my 5.5 gen shifter in the trunk of the car. That'd fit real nice.

I also need to find a better intake, this is a bit too ghetto for me

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. they changed that for the 6th gen. Easy fix though.

Also, the aluminum bracket that holds the cables in place is much better on the 6th gen cars. They tend to crack in the 5.5 gen. If you can get one of those that would be good.

freezer

I just saw the thread for that when searching for what that clip should look like. I would have grabbed it at the wrecker if I'd have known.

freezer

My clutch feels brutal. It's a brand spanking new NISformance Stage 2 but something needs adjustment or is broken. I'm aware of the locknut on the master cylinder but before I start playing with it, I want to describe my symptoms.

I can, quite easily, push the slave cylinder piston away from the withdrawal lever (clutch fork if you will). After doing this, the clutch pedal basically falls to the floor and stays there. The slave piston does take up the "slack".

After pulling it back, another application of the clutch pedal will operate the clutch lever through the entire stroke and will return on its own but there is negligible resistance until the pedal is 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through its stoke. It never gets much better than this. Viewing the operation of the slave piston in the engine bay confirms that the slave is moving throughout the entire stroke of the clutch pedal, but the first 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal movement has almost no resistance. I hate this feeling but it appears to be a characteristic of the pressure plate. What I want to have is resistance as soon as I move the pedal, but I suspect the only thing that will accomplish is more pre-load on my throwout bearing.

Suggestions welcomed!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Did you trash the stock line? It's unbleedable.

freezer

Forgot to mention that I've got the single piece SS line installed.

MadMax SE

I know the feeling your talking about, it may be the actual pedal mechanism. If you look at how it moves/swivels you'll see why you start feeling pressure up to half way through a pedal press. Vacuum blenders work wonders for bleeding the clutch.