I'm trying to change my parking brake cable I'll put pictures up and I can't figure out how to take the back left cable off it looks like I have to take the midpipe off to do this? That can't be right and I started to unscrew the two gold bolts they unscrew but feel like it has tension from the other side so I didn't go any farther I can't figure out what to do 😞

 

If anyone wants more I'll try and take more

 

Since I just replaced a rear caliper I can say that you have to unhook in the back caliper where's the spring.

 

those two gold bolts are rusted underneath thats why there is resistance.

Whenever i get under a car in the tunnel i rip off all the heat shields. Except the one by the gas tank.

then you can spray underneath ,use goggles or glasses.

 

It's already completely off the caliper that parts not hard at all i was more just asking what that pannel is with the two gold bolts like do I need to take that off to get to the y connection does it have nothing to do with the cable and I've dealt with a fair share of Rusty bolts I actually just snapped a caliper bracket bolt and all the heat shield bolts look fine it more feels like it bolted from underneath to

 

So I just read that pic you posted and I'm sorry I'm terrible with diagrams and stuff like that so I'm still a little unclear I do have to take that panel off?

 

The parking brake assembly is 3 pieces .
the place where the two sides meet under the car, left and right are under the car .

And the exhaust and heat shields are in the way. If you are replacing the left or the right,or both you don't even need the center console pulled up. I believe.

See the picture he posted, shows two individual cables. at the bottom. they merge together at a y point. About where the stock resonator is.

 

i was under impression some exhaust being removed would make a parking brake cable removal easier.... it may even be required.

 

Okay so just got my new cable and I think I'm starting to figure this out I'm going to take the heat shield of and sneak it out of the way and go from there I'll put another update later

 

So with a little fluid film a lot of pb a little wire brushing a few snapped bolts and allot if cursing I was able to get the cable out well... Not all of it I of course started with the first mounting bracket towards the caliper snapped the first two got the third one fine the fourth one under the heat shield was a little difficult the only bolt that gave me a hard time on the heat shield was the one that connected it to the heat shield further towards the front of the car over the cat it turned loose but then just kept spinning so I slide my phone under the heat shield or I guess over? Anyway I'll post the pic I've never seen this before it just looked like a rivet type pin so I ended up just ripping it out and it was a little hard after I got it out I had to bend it a little and then slid it under the other heat shield so I could get to the last bracket and where it mounts got the last bracket with a ton of pb and a wire brush but I can't seem to get the mounting pin or clip w/e it's called it looks like it just turns 90° and slides out but it's not turning or moving at all I sprayed it a bunch hopefully it just comes out

 

drill those out and put Stainless steel nuts and bolts through. Or drill and tap.

I take the heat shields off and throw them away been doing that for 20 years on maximas

 

nice work op ! glad u did it yourself... not sure i would even try this...

i am in same spot, only one of my parking brake cables work. i stopped using e-brake since it stopped working (automatic)

 

Thats it PB blaster & a wire brush! Thats how you get them out!
You can replace with zinc bolts thats fine! As long as theyre auto grade which is a certain grade/class I think. I think its class 10 or grade 8 zinc. I dont know for sure?
Maybe one of the mechanical engineers on here would know better than me?
They wont rust if you use anti-seize when re-installing the bolts.

 

Yeah mines an automatic to and I'm just gonna reform the heat shield and throw it back on mabye zip tie life cause honestly I don't even know how you would get it out without taking the exhaust off my only problem is now that I got the new cable in and got all the way to the wheel and the bracket closest to the wheel that's one of the books I snapped and it's stuck in �� so I can't get my new bolt in lol I'll either drill it out or get a bigger bolt and go in the hole right next to it but I'm sure it's fine and update on getting the pin out I had to spray it and brush it what I mean btw is I got a cheap hands wire brush squeezed the handle and put it in a drill boom worked great so I had to Brian it's allot before it would even turn and then I got the cable lined up to get removed and put a flat head to it and a hammer and she came out and not to mention all of this is being done with the car being on 2 jack stands only on rear axle and the jack stands are at the lowest level cause I had to jack the car up with a scissor jack oh and in my gravel driveway lol

 

do not work like that people on the ORG have been killed that way

 

Id just pull it out on the road and put it up on asphalt!
Always get it up and support it safely somehow(jack supports, railroad ties, ect) on a solid, level surface without damaging the underbody!
What some other manufacturers recommend is sliding the wheel in sideways under the motor crossbar so if it falls it falls on that!

 

Oh yeah it's supported on two different jack stands and lol I almost thought about the road better than dirt haha and it actually made me happy to see some ppl concerned. The angle of my driveway is the only sketchy thing but I'm not worried about it falling at all and what I actually love (total sarcasm) my radiator support has a huge hole in the bottom so my engine cross member isn't attached at all that's a whole other problem 😟😥

 

Purchase 2 more stnds and raise the front end. With only rising the rear you could snap the parking pawl on the AT.

After you install the new cables utilize them more often so they don't seize up.