Jagalag

What's going on guys?
So I just picked it up yesterday, these issues didn't come up until I hit the freeway. This is the last time I trust dealer reviews on google, or buy a car over 200 miles from my house.
so far, looks like I have an alternator charging issue... ABS light came on and car started deccelerating on highway. Possibly because it's tied into the drive by wire system? 7:30pm in the dark on the side of the interstate, ABS, Brake and battery light on when throttle pressed, car slowed to a halt on the shoulder, had to wiggle the alternator positive, and made it to midpoint for the night. Strut bushings definitely worn, hearing muffled squeaking sounds coming from the corners. Brakes are almost vibrating my damn arm off when coming off the highway. Car shudddering at stops, maybe more coil packs need replaced? I'm just hoping to make it home tonight. At the Nissan Dealership getting the passenger airbag module recall checked now....

mclasser

Not trying to be a jerk, but did you not test drive the car or have a mechanic look it over beforehand? And traveling 700 miles for a 14 yr old generic car like the Maxima...

That being said, I hope you're back on the road soon.

freezer

To be fair, it's tough to find clean 14 yo Maxima, but you're right, especially for an autotragic.

MichMaxFan

Why didn't you drive it before you bought it? There's obviously no perfect car, but I feel for you because it appears the problems would have been found in a test drive?

I hope you get it fixed reasonably. Brakes are cheap and struts can be relatively economical as well. Coils arent too much, but i dont know about abs stuff.

Jagalag

Finally made it home last night. Don't worry, no-one is being a jerk, you're right. The car stalled twice again yesterday on the highway in the dark. This time I was closer to civilization and I did the same thing with the alternator wire. I got home just before O'Really? closed, and the alternator failed the voltage regulator test on the first try, but mysteriously passed on the 2 tests afterward, because I wanted a printout of it. Anyway, I've got a lot of work to do.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

if the car shuts off any time after the alternator replacement, check out replacing the 3 CPS sesnors (only replace w nissan), there has been a trend of them going the past couple years.

the brake issue is sadly so normal on this car, i haven't had a non brake shutter stop since I have owned the car.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Brake shutter could be caused by worn tie rod ends. They can cause a shudder that's more violent than warped rotors. Have the rotors cut first since it's only a few dollars each.

I switched to PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors and pads earlier this year and have been really happy with them. No warping at all so far and they're not that expensive.

I think if you sort out the alternator issue, your other electrical problems will go away. Do that before you stress on them too much.

Jagalag

Yeah, I'm going to take my time with it. In the meanwhile, I still got these two old timers to tool around in. The relic
on the left is on the chopping block as as soon as the Max is operational.

98 i30t 5spd

Just curious, is the 5th gen maxima rare in your area?

maxinout93

I think if you test drove it you probably would have found the issues. I remember looking at a 01 I30 T it was very clean and i liked it. It was owned by a female. So we went on the test drive. I immediately got suspicious because the a/c was running full blast, and it was kool outside. So i took the car on the freeway, and no sooner than i got off the exit ramp, the car started to run hot. So its very important to test drive!

Jagalag

yes.

Jagalag

Well, motor and tranny are ok... and the body is in very good shape, so I'm going to take my time fixing it. Everything that's seriously broke is wear and tear stuff.

MaxMaximus

It's good to focus on the positives, and remember that it can be hard to find cars of this age with clean bodies. Sounds like you have some potential and at least you know what the issues are. The forum here is a great resource that can help you out. It would be good to post a picture or two and at least tell more details on what you purchased exactly.

ssneakster

Why are you downgrading from the Avalon?

BronxSleeperMax187

How is he downgrading? 200 HP.... No. Looks....No. How lol ?

Jagalag

LOL, I'm glad you asked me that. The Avalon has been Ol'reliable for all of the 13+ years I have owned it since 2004. It's paid off, and runs super smooth on the highway for an 18 year old car. To tell the truth, the Max can't compete with the Avalon in terms of comfort on a long haul highway trip. The thing is, it's just becoming an eyesore to be seen in, some A** rear ended me and I had to put a two tone junkyard bumper on it to make it look somewhat decent. Then there's a P0441 emissions code that is driving me Apes*#t in trying to fix it. I've replaced the canister solenoid, blew out all the lines, changed the gas cap with OEM new, Unhooked the ECU (bad idea, because the computer erased memory of second key) thinking it was bad and needed swapped out, even replaced the canister itself with a brand new Dorman unit!! STILL the code shows up!!! Nobody even on the ToyotaNation forums can help me with this, even the moderators are stumped as to why I only got this code and not the other codes that typically go along with it. Still starts every time though, I've got ALL service records since new. When I sell it for some chump change, I'm pretty sure I'll find a buyer quickly. I'm just holding on to it for now since I put brand new tires last summer, new EGR valve, replaced the battery and alternator all just this year too. Just making payments on the Nissan and allowing the MAX to reLAX... LOL!

Jagalag

So,

I just wanted to let you guys know that I WON my credit dispute case against the dealer for misleading verbiage in his ad about the car! I'm soooo glad I used my credit card to pay for some of it...so I would have some recourse. I had also filed a written complaint with the State agency that handles these grievances, but that was a big fat waste of time, since I had already signed the FTC disclosure statement. I basically filed the dispute for parts only, at around $500.00, which I thought was more than reasonable, since I could do the work myself, and I was at fault for not driving the car before paying for it (Damn, I got lucky).

anyway... the previous guy used ECCPP brand struts, that appear to be almost brand new, but the car makes a squeaking/creaking sound when being driven over uneven bumps...is that a sign of mostly the MOUNTS being bad, rather than the cylinder(s)?? If this is a symptom of bad springs, then I'll just replace all four ends with a complete strut package. Thanks for all you guys help and support.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

nice update !!

02Infinitii35

100% truth. I am still trying to get use to the ride, though I have a I-35, it rides exactly like a maxima. I switched from a gm with the electronic air suspension. Maximas/I-35's are beautiful cars, but the ride feels so cheap. After going on a 2k mile road trip in the I35, I've been having back problems ever since.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It may be that the seats don't quite match your back. I have that problem with Fords. I get terrible backaches after a long, 6 - 8 hour drive.

02Infinitii35

Yea probably that and the fact that I feel every bump, Ive driven in newer infiniti's and they ride the same. it also may be the adjustment from full air to springs

AaronL

iTrader: (1)

+1 I get a really stiff/sore low back from rides that are 3+ hours, no matter how I adjust the seat. My wife finds the ride super comfortable on these same trips.

Jagalag

uhh, can anyone chime in with my query about the struts in post #17?

BTW: from personal experience, the best seats in any car that I've ever owned, properly adjusted for thigh and lumbar support, was my 96 Accord EX. Proper bucket style with padded, angled thigh support. A little hard to get in and out of. After 600 mile trips, I felt like I never even left home, and was ready for a 2-3 mile hike in the woods.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

You need to isolate the squeak. It could be the control arms, upper mounts or something else. The spring itself wont squeak but it could squeak where it contacts the strut.

If you can recreate the squeak by rocking the car up and down that can help. Sometimes squeaks take a few miles to heat up and start making noise. you can drive it till it squeaks then take it home and see if you can recreate it.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

I know that exact feeling. The only car that ever did that for me was my 2013 Altima with the zero gravity seats. My back hates my g37 and maxima seats