Kevin Cope

Hey everyone. I have a 2001 maxima se with 174k miles on it. Since I bought the car, it would stall on a cold start, start fine on warm start. Thought I fixed it awhile ago but I didn't.

So what I did was, I disconnected the battery, unplugged the TPS, unscrewed it, and adjusted it so it gave just a tiny bit more gas on startup so it wouldn't stall on a cold start. While I 'fixing' the TPS, I also unplugged and maf, loosened the hose clamp past the MAF, and adjusted the intake where it meets that rubber thing before the throttle body because when I changed my starter I put the intake back on a little crooked. This caused an air leak, which triggered a CEL. Once I put everything back together I started it. Started fine. Idled a little high (1100rpm, not unusual for a cold day) but ran a lot smoother because the air leak was fixed. I cleared the CEL with my scan tool, and that's where my problem began. Ever since I reset my ECU the car will not go past 2000 RPM. I now have a CEL for p505.

It's important to mention that I didn't remove the IACV, and regardless, the car already had a coolant bypass done to it, and idle relearn procedure (Owner before me fried ECU via IACV, which was fixed when I bought it)

I have no codes for the MAF, but it's acting like a MAF problem, although the issue did not begin until I cleared the ECU. Will a idle relearn procedure work? I cannot get it to work so I'm not sure if I'm doing it wrong.

This is the procedure i'm using.
https://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/maxim...e_learning.php

Edit: I disconnected the battery completely for 30 min, cleaned the MAF for ****s and giggles. When I started the car I could rev it to 3500RPM instead of 2000rpm, but the longer I left it running, the lower it would want to rev to, until it eventually went back to not reving past 2000rpm

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

I'll tell you first that your procedure for adjusting the TPS is wrong.

Start at page EC-95 ...

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2000/ec.pdf

Kevin Cope

I'll give that a shot. Is it possible when I put TPS back on wrong. There's 2 holes where the bolt can go. The first time I did it, and started the car. It reved straight to 5k before I shut it off. I took it off and when I put it back on I have is so the TPS is just barely all the way down if that makes sense.

I also wanted to point out that in drive it bounces at 2k, but in neutral it will bounce at 2k, then 3k, then 4k, and so forth depending on how much gas I give it

Edit: I'm reading that manual, and I'll start from scratch following it and see what happens. Thank you

Kevin Cope

I fixed the issue, the problem was I bolted the TPS in the wrong hole. The bolt on the bottom of the TPS goes into the hole furthest from you. That fixed the issue. I'm going to calibrate later because my multimeter battery is dead. It runs & idles pretty damn close to spec regardless though.