I have the dreaded p0021 code and ONLY the p0021 along with the p0300. I have a FWD 2010 vq35de swapped into my car and I also have a turbo, so many mods. But I have such a lack of power even with the turbo, I don't make much more than a stock 2010 Maxima. Ive removed the solenoid for visual inspection and tested it with 12v, made sure it opened and closed like its supposed to. It looked really clean and the oil im using is Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30. I am curious to hear any solutions.

I dyno'd the car and made 318 with the code, it breaks up in the higher RPM, but when the engine is warming up or cool I don't get nearly as many problems with performance. I quadruple checked the wiring, I've trial and error cleared the code a fair few times but the same p0021 comes up every time. no sign of p0011, so its specific to bank 2. Any help is appreciated!

 

So i just tested the OHMage between the 2 terminals and im finding that its not acceptable. The FSM says it needs to be at 7.0-7.5 and im at 8.0-8.2 so even though it seems to work and responds to voltage and clicks and is super clean, that MIGHT be the issue.

Ill report back once ive done the replacement.

 

After further inspection I have suspected it to be the oil gallery gaskets. Oil pressure is not within spec and the engine has 101k so they are probably the issue. Even though it's only throwing one code.

 

I took the engine out and apart to get to the gaskets only to find out they are not damaged or ruined in any way. I took both solenoids out & ohm tested them, both at 7.9 ohms. Took 12v and gave it to both and they click just like they should. Can someone chime in?

 

Replaced the gaskets, the problem is no closer to being cured. If anyone has suggestions please say something. This code is really elusive, I'm not sure what to do next. The car runs way better cold than warm.

 

Mobil 5w30 and boosted? How's that water working out? It's not even good when N/A.

Might as well swap the solenoid.

 

That water was no good so when i put the engine back together i put in conventional 10w-40 and oil pressure seems to be within spec as far as i can see, where its 90psi at 4500rpm & ~20 at idle. I'll try swapping out the solenoid, but it does click when i apply 12v. I heard there can be sludge clogging the passages that lead to the solenoid?

 

Just put the new solenoid in, no change I can tell whatsoever. p0021 shows up immediately after every time I clear the codes. Tried swapping the cam sensors around to see if there was any change and the same symptoms and code still pop up.

 

Another update, I found that the ECU is not commanding bank 2 to advance. The voltage fluctuation in bank 1 is significant and consistent, while bank 2 is non-existent, stays at 12v indefinitely.

I will be swapping the ECU with a different one and seeing if that will work. The ECU must have shorted out from the wires touching because they were cracked and in bad shape. Will update when finished.

 

Looks like I found the culprit. For anyone who tried everything looking for p0021 or p0011 and you can't figure it out try looking at the ECU.

 

The car still behaves the same with no check engine light besides p0057 for secondary O2 sensor being unplugged. I got the inverter kit from nisformance thinking it would help but the car hasn't changed it's behavior since I first tuned it. Any suggestions?

 

swapped ecu and no change?

 

Yes, weird enough the code is gone and both banks advance but still only have 307hp. The car still behaves the same way
seemingly.

What is consistent though is other than the fluctuating Dyno graph of the power line, when starting from a stop or trying to rev the car from an idle there's always a slight hesitation and shakiness and sluggishness within the first about 700-1000 rpm then smooth from there consistently.

 

I found that my compression is not really good and that might be the cause of my issue.
cyl 1:137
cyl 2:130
cyl 3:140
cyl 4:130
cyl 5:135
cyl 6:140

 

Thank you sir this thread really helped.


Fresh DE swap. Was lacking full power. Got p0022 codes but only a few times it was actually very rare. I thought it was timing and it was kind of. Performance didn't change when I had the bank 2 IVT solenoid unplugged. Checked cams with datascan 2. Saw bank 2 only got to about 3%. Started messing with b2 IVT solenoid. Cleaned it. Dropped oil pan and noticed gunk in the oil intake screen. Cleaned it. Check the plug and it registered 12v same as bank 1. Stumped. All that is left would be ECU or the timing chain. I had just been through changing the timing chains and tensioners. I used crap parts from ebay and the timing jumped a tooth on bank one. Redid the timing with better parts and thought now I had the problem again in bank 2 but I was pretty sure I checked the chain marks and cam positions about 20 times before reassembly. So found this thread finely and sure enough as soon as I pulled out the ECU I could smell it. Opened her up and saw black in a couple of spots on the inside back cover. Put in the spare 03 AT platinum edition ECU I had, reprogrammed the keys and shazam bank 2 cams start working again. I'm guessing the wires touched somehow when the car was running and shorted out the ECU.

Also read that AT ECU wouldn't work w a MT. Well it does I just have some NAT and AT codes pop up. Owell.

This all started with a broken exhaust cam in the engine I had to take out and replace w this one. Yes broken. Bank 1 exhaust sprocket snapped right off of the cam shaft. Thats for another thread I think.

Thanks guys.

 

There's been a few people with a broken cam on RWD, too. Pretty rare. Life hates you.

 

I think I might have torqued the bolt too much when I did the timing on it about 20k miles ago. Maybe put a little crack in there or something. No kiddin about life. Hope I can say I beat it this time tho.

I know its over a year later but I wonder how Austin is faring with his maxima. I hope he didn't use a harbor freight compression gauge I read that its common for those to give a low compression readings.

Anyway thanks again.