5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

New motor (3.5L)

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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 05:13 PM
  #1  
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New motor (3.5L)

I've been out of the Maxima community since my motor blew about a year and a half ago now. I just picked up a vq35de from a junkyard and was wondering what are some important things I should take care of before I put the new motor in the max. Timing chain and water pump are already on the list, as well as valve cover and head gaskets. Any input is appreciated. Also anything thats hard to access that isn't motor related would be nice to do.
Old Jul 25, 2018 | 02:03 PM
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I agree on all the other stuff, but head gaskets are unnecessary in my opinion.

If you suspect it needs those for any reason, I would choose another engine just to be safe.
Old Jul 25, 2018 | 04:31 PM
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You can get motors where you don't have to do anything.
Pick up a clean low mile engine . I have gotten 23k ,13k' 40k engines $500 $800 $1000.
Old Jul 25, 2018 | 06:55 PM
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All gaskets. head gasket to manifold gaskets.
They are cheap enough but i highly suggest the oil pan gaskets because mine where
leaking like crazy at 200k.
Old Jul 26, 2018 | 05:04 AM
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I already have the motor, so I'm looking for suggestions for preventative maintenance at this point. Can't just return it unless i drop it in and it's blown.
Old Jul 26, 2018 | 12:36 PM
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What year and what car is the donor engine from?
Old Jul 26, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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I wouldn't do anything except front/rear seals and a lot of RTV on the half moon.
Old Jul 26, 2018 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I wouldn't do anything except front/rear seals and a lot of RTV on the half moon.
I agree on the RTV many used to little and don't wait long enough to bolt it down.
Old Jul 27, 2018 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by krismax
I agree on the RTV many used to little and don't wait long enough to bolt it down.
Werd. Depending on temp/humidity it might take an hour to get it real thick and ready with a decent bead for an oil pan. In the gross summer I bet I let it sit 15 mins before putting the pan on, then with just the weight pushing it down i finger snug the bolts. After an hour or more I come back to tighten.
I think some forget about the prep, too. ALL oil needs to cleaned off or you're not gonna get adhesion. I use a lot of brake/carb cleaner spraying parts off, then wiping the location for RTV.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Jul 27, 2018 at 12:08 AM.
Old Jul 27, 2018 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
What year and what car is the donor engine from?
It is from a 2003 infiniti i35 that had 93k miles. The motor will be mounted to an automatic transmission in a 2002 Maxima SE with 113k on the body.
Old Jul 27, 2018 | 03:58 PM
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I take it you never got to see what the pre cats looked like. Did the recycler do a compression test?

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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 10:45 PM
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I have headers and have had my intake off to see where my 03 SE loses it's oil...my intake valve stem seals were all wet, the ports above it were clean, and the plenum was clean...The high engine temps harden and transform the rubber viton valve stem seals into a plastic/ceramic like material and they no longer seal as effectively...My Compression is still high and healthy, It'snot a ring problem for my engine but a valve stem seal issue! I'll fix it after I drop a 7th Gen motor in between the fenders! The 5.5th Gen motor will be fixed and dropped into my 98 4th Gen!
Old Jul 28, 2018 | 04:57 AM
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Valve seals sound like a good idea while it's on the engine stand. I know these things burn a ton of oil so if there's anything that can help with that, Im willing to do it
Old Jul 28, 2018 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackoutSE
Valve seals sound like a good idea while it's on the engine stand. I know these things burn a ton of oil so if there's anything that can help with that, Im willing to do it
Inspect them I'm sure they're leaking...
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