2002 Evap Purge Valve Replaced and functioning light remains
08-23-2018, 10:30 AM
#1
2002 Evap Purge Valve Replaced and functioning light remains
Guys I am at the end of my wits here. Evap purge valve was stuck open 12 months ago. I replaced every part of the system back then, and the light never went away, it would go on and off once in a while a day after driving in the rain, fast forward 12 months later inspections came around again, and all lines have been smoke and vacuum tested, and sensors have been extensively checked
Nissan - Evap Canister
Dorman -Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV) (engine side)
Dorman - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister) (this was replaced a 2nd time during final extensive checks on the entire system)
Dorman - Evap Vacuum Cut Valve
Nissan - Gas Cap (edit i replaced that as well)
Currently light just came back on after being reset two times after failing inspections and replacing purge valve for 2nd time. I refuse to scrap this car over evap issues. This is crazy.? i don't know what else to do, and what's scarier is the shop hinted at not knowing what else to do, since they extensively checked everything and it all works fine.
Only thing I can think of is OEM Purge valve? isntead of dorman?
Nissan - Evap Canister
Dorman -Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV) (engine side)
Dorman - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister) (this was replaced a 2nd time during final extensive checks on the entire system)
Dorman - Evap Vacuum Cut Valve
Nissan - Gas Cap (edit i replaced that as well)
Currently light just came back on after being reset two times after failing inspections and replacing purge valve for 2nd time. I refuse to scrap this car over evap issues. This is crazy.? i don't know what else to do, and what's scarier is the shop hinted at not knowing what else to do, since they extensively checked everything and it all works fine.
Only thing I can think of is OEM Purge valve? isntead of dorman?
Last edited by Prophecy99; 08-23-2018 at 11:16 AM.
08-23-2018, 11:03 AM
#2
i must mention after studying more , very very recently, every now and then the engine has been stalling during coasting and idling, only during slowing down coasting and or traffic light idling, nothing else, and it starts back up no prob and no extra lights.
how can i just get this thing pass, i never knew Evap purge valve could effect the engine as much as it does.
no i am starting to worry, but car has been driving fine and mpg has been totally fine, oil has been good, intial acceleration has been very weak though more than ever i never felt a delay w the throttle before but now i have a delay when i get on the gas and it doesnt take off like it used to. i just accounted to age... but ....idk... sigh.
how can i just get this thing pass, i never knew Evap purge valve could effect the engine as much as it does.
Bad Purge Valve Symptoms
1) Engine Misfire
If your car's engine misfires frequently or doesn't run smoothly, it could be that the purge valve has gone bad. The valve fails to open on time, because of which, excessive fuel vapors start collecting in the charcoal canister. If this situation continues, these vapors can flood the engine cylinders, resulting in an abnormal fuel mixture getting created and burned. This causes the engine to misfire and choke.
2) Failure to Clear Emission Tests
Every car on the road is required to pass the sate-sanctioned emission test, which imposes an upper-limit on the various gases and pollutants that come out through a car's exhaust. If the canister purge valve malfunctions, it may be unable to redirect the fuel vapors back into the emission system. These vapors contain harmful hydrocarbons, which will then escape through the car's exhaust, and therefore show up in the emission tests. Thus, if your car fails the emission test, its purge valve may be at fault.
3) Damaged Gaskets
A normally functioning purge valve releases fuel vapors into the charcoal canister, where they are stored until they are recycled. A bad purge may not open to allow these vapors to pass. As a result, pressure will start to build inside the system. This pressure can be so intense that it can blow out the gasket and rubber seals, causing oil to leak and get sprayed out of the emission system and onto the engine and engine compartment. If left unresolved, this will create even more severe issues.
4) Damaged Spark Plugs
A faulty purge valve may by unable to redirect the fuel vapors into the engine's cylinders for combustion. As a result, an unnecessarily rich fuel and air mixture will get combusted during each cycle of the engine. This produces extra heat, which in the long run will wear out the spark plugs. Thus, if your car's spark plugs seem to have worn out earlier than expected, most likely, the purge valve in your car is not functioning properly.
In case your car is showing one or more of these symptoms, it is advisable to get the purge valve inside it checked. If it is found to be faulty, it should be either repaired or replaced immediately.
1) Engine Misfire
If your car's engine misfires frequently or doesn't run smoothly, it could be that the purge valve has gone bad. The valve fails to open on time, because of which, excessive fuel vapors start collecting in the charcoal canister. If this situation continues, these vapors can flood the engine cylinders, resulting in an abnormal fuel mixture getting created and burned. This causes the engine to misfire and choke.
2) Failure to Clear Emission Tests
Every car on the road is required to pass the sate-sanctioned emission test, which imposes an upper-limit on the various gases and pollutants that come out through a car's exhaust. If the canister purge valve malfunctions, it may be unable to redirect the fuel vapors back into the emission system. These vapors contain harmful hydrocarbons, which will then escape through the car's exhaust, and therefore show up in the emission tests. Thus, if your car fails the emission test, its purge valve may be at fault.
3) Damaged Gaskets
A normally functioning purge valve releases fuel vapors into the charcoal canister, where they are stored until they are recycled. A bad purge may not open to allow these vapors to pass. As a result, pressure will start to build inside the system. This pressure can be so intense that it can blow out the gasket and rubber seals, causing oil to leak and get sprayed out of the emission system and onto the engine and engine compartment. If left unresolved, this will create even more severe issues.
4) Damaged Spark Plugs
A faulty purge valve may by unable to redirect the fuel vapors into the engine's cylinders for combustion. As a result, an unnecessarily rich fuel and air mixture will get combusted during each cycle of the engine. This produces extra heat, which in the long run will wear out the spark plugs. Thus, if your car's spark plugs seem to have worn out earlier than expected, most likely, the purge valve in your car is not functioning properly.
In case your car is showing one or more of these symptoms, it is advisable to get the purge valve inside it checked. If it is found to be faulty, it should be either repaired or replaced immediately.
08-23-2018, 11:11 AM
#3
i must mention after studying more , very very recently, every now and then the engine has been stalling during coasting and idling, only during slowing down coasting and or traffic light idling, nothing else, and it starts back up no prob and no extra lights.
how can i just get this thing pass, i never knew Evap purge valve could effect the engine as much as it does. no i am starting to worry, but car has been driving fine and mpg has been totally fine, oil has been good, intial acceleration has been very weak though more than ever i never felt a delay w the throttle before but now i have a delay when i get on the gas and it doesnt take off like it used to. i just accounted to age... but ....idk... sigh.
how can i just get this thing pass, i never knew Evap purge valve could effect the engine as much as it does. no i am starting to worry, but car has been driving fine and mpg has been totally fine, oil has been good, intial acceleration has been very weak though more than ever i never felt a delay w the throttle before but now i have a delay when i get on the gas and it doesnt take off like it used to. i just accounted to age... but ....idk... sigh.
Retarded emissions sounds more like a circuit problem.
Know anyone in these counties? http://www.drivecleanpa.state.pa.us/info_non.htm Register the car there. Emissions testing is scam by the govt.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 08-23-2018 at 11:15 AM.
08-23-2018, 11:46 AM
#4
allright, so heres what I am doing, because of my stalling and issues at the gas pump, I am replacing the PVCV Pressure Volume Control Valve which is near the engine. My stalls immediately after refueling are a clear indication of this. WHen the shop tested it, the engine is cooled and not warmed up like when I go to refuel. and i spoke w my fav mechanic for 5-10 mins and we both agreed. this is a good chance to fix this ish. Right now there is a dorman on there, fingers crossed.
i hope to get the part and have it back to the shop wednesday.
i hope to get the part and have it back to the shop wednesday.
08-23-2018, 11:54 AM
#5
driveablity problem sounds like maf
Retarded emissions sounds more like a circuit problem.
Know anyone in these counties? http://www.drivecleanpa.state.pa.us/info_non.htm Register the car there. Emissions testing is scam by the govt.
Retarded emissions sounds more like a circuit problem.
Know anyone in these counties? http://www.drivecleanpa.state.pa.us/info_non.htm Register the car there. Emissions testing is scam by the govt.
to be honest right now I care less about the stalling , and just trying to pass at this point., by the way the stalling is rare, very rare, i would say 1 out of 20 drives, and the stalling literally at the gas pump is directly related to PVCV (if the canister valve is functioning)
they tested the voltage and power of the sensors by the way,
08-23-2018, 12:09 PM
#6
thanks man, I thought of MAF too, i am going to clean it tonight w the CRC MAF spray, and i just checked that list, and i dont think i know anyone ! we have a mtn house in the one county in the north central that is excluded from no emissions, I work in county north of my home and they are all emissions.
to be honest right now I care less about the stalling , and just trying to pass at this point., by the way the stalling is rare, very rare, i would say 1 out of 20 drives, and the stalling literally at the gas pump is directly related to PVCV (if the canister valve is functioning)
they tested the voltage and power of the sensors by the way,
to be honest right now I care less about the stalling , and just trying to pass at this point., by the way the stalling is rare, very rare, i would say 1 out of 20 drives, and the stalling literally at the gas pump is directly related to PVCV (if the canister valve is functioning)
they tested the voltage and power of the sensors by the way,
08-23-2018, 12:16 PM
#7
i replaced the Fuel Pump and O ring both OEM, last summer some time ago.... and don't believe I had these symptoms around that. hope that helps...
should I bring up the O ring to my mechanic? i kinda would like to keep it simple, but i also agree w your thinking like what else could it be.
i am gonna pull the code again tonight when I buy the CRC MAF spray, but would evap codes be caused by the fuel filter O ring issues?
also , it was my second fuel filter and O ring replacement, and cant remember any issues w the O-Ring
should I bring up the O ring to my mechanic? i kinda would like to keep it simple, but i also agree w your thinking like what else could it be.
i am gonna pull the code again tonight when I buy the CRC MAF spray, but would evap codes be caused by the fuel filter O ring issues?
also , it was my second fuel filter and O ring replacement, and cant remember any issues w the O-Ring
Last edited by Prophecy99; 08-23-2018 at 12:33 PM.
08-23-2018, 12:52 PM
#8
i replaced the Fuel Pump and O ring both OEM, last summer some time ago.... and don't believe I had these symptoms around that. hope that helps...
should I bring up the O ring to my mechanic? i kinda would like to keep it simple, but i also agree w your thinking like what else could it be.
i am gonna pull the code again tonight when I buy the CRC MAF spray, but would evap codes be caused by the fuel filter O ring issues?
also , it was my second fuel filter and O ring replacement, and cant remember any issues w the O-Ring
should I bring up the O ring to my mechanic? i kinda would like to keep it simple, but i also agree w your thinking like what else could it be.
i am gonna pull the code again tonight when I buy the CRC MAF spray, but would evap codes be caused by the fuel filter O ring issues?
also , it was my second fuel filter and O ring replacement, and cant remember any issues w the O-Ring
08-25-2018, 09:06 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Rust belt :-(
Posts: 47
Prophecy, pm me I might have a fix for you.
08-27-2018, 04:15 AM
#11
08-30-2018, 05:58 AM
#12
mechanic said the leak code didnt come back so thats a good sign, he reset codes, and we will see in a couple days. currently using OEM nissan PVCV
i hope I can provide a solution to anyone dealing w this, and I am hoping its the classic OEM vs aftermarket rule of thumb on sensors , will post results.
i hope I can provide a solution to anyone dealing w this, and I am hoping its the classic OEM vs aftermarket rule of thumb on sensors , will post results.
09-01-2018, 01:24 PM
#13
Do not use DORMAN sensors on any EVAP or any other sensor for that matter. i passed the inspection and got rid of P1444 because I swapped the dorman to an OEM .
so basically it would appear that the DORMAN PVCV never worked ! and casued my stalling issues ! thanks aftermaket
cliffnotes - if you need a part and it has to word sensor in it .... you better replace with Nissan OEM, if you do not you will waste your time . period, waste your money, and possibly cause other unwanted symptoms, if you dare to use an aftermarket non oem sensor.
so basically it would appear that the DORMAN PVCV never worked ! and casued my stalling issues ! thanks aftermaket
cliffnotes - if you need a part and it has to word sensor in it .... you better replace with Nissan OEM, if you do not you will waste your time . period, waste your money, and possibly cause other unwanted symptoms, if you dare to use an aftermarket non oem sensor.
09-01-2018, 02:17 PM
#14
Do not use DORMAN sensors on any EVAP or any other sensor for that matter. i passed the inspection and got rid of P1444 because I swapped the dorman to an OEM .
so basically it would appear that the DORMAN PVCV never worked ! and casued my stalling issues ! thanks aftermaket
cliffnotes - if you need a part and it has to word sensor in it .... you better replace with Nissan OEM, if you do not you will waste your time . period, waste your money, and possibly cause other unwanted symptoms, if you dare to use an aftermarket non oem sensor.
so basically it would appear that the DORMAN PVCV never worked ! and casued my stalling issues ! thanks aftermaket
cliffnotes - if you need a part and it has to word sensor in it .... you better replace with Nissan OEM, if you do not you will waste your time . period, waste your money, and possibly cause other unwanted symptoms, if you dare to use an aftermarket non oem sensor.
09-04-2018, 05:46 AM
#15
i hear ya ! this is the sensor on the engine though right by the manifold. i was stalling because it was letting the pressure build up so much and not releasing it or vise versa. also light is gone after swapping.
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