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10-18-2018, 06:41 PM

User1

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Part ID Help

2014 VQ.

What is this?

Thanks.

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10-18-2018, 07:42 PM

DennisMik

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That is the oil pressure sending switch. It looks like it may be for an actual gauge. If it is for an idiot light, it looks broken.

10-18-2018, 07:50 PM

User1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DennisMik

That is the oil pressure sending switch. It looks like it may be for an actual gauge. If it is for an idiot light, it looks broken.

Thanks for the reply. It is indeed broken. But if that is the sending unit, then what is this?

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10-18-2018, 07:54 PM

User1

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Nissanpartsdeal.com lists the sending unit as this part:

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...al-unit,,25240

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM...-/202250468273

which looks nothing like the sensor in my first post. I have purchased the sending unit and installed it into the location shown in the second picture I uploaded. So I am at a loss, and I can't seem to figure it out through nissanpartsdeal diagrams.

10-19-2018, 08:21 AM

Slamrod

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Im using the same motor. According to the nisformance HR swap article (http://www.nisformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=252), it is an oil temperature sensor - we dont use it on our cars, and in my opinion its kind of redundant anyways when you already have a coolant temp sensor performing practically the same job. I just left it alone because idk what else to plug that hole with. There is another sensor that we do use located on the upper oil pan, also on the firewall side of the motor, that is the “dummy” oil pressure switch ie the idiot light that turns on when your motor is starved of oil - mine on my 2002 upper oil pan broke so i pulled the one off the 14' oil pan, i used a 1 inch deep socket to get it off although vicegrips will also do the job just fine. The other sensor that you pointed out below the crank is a crank position sensor iirc, obviously important but unrelated to oil pressure. Hope this helps.

edit- had incorrect info

Last edited by Slamrod; 10-19-2018 at 09:52 AM.

10-19-2018, 06:23 PM

User1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Slamrod

Damn, what happened to the color scheme? I preferred the dark gray! Anyway, The sensor below the crank that I pointed out is actually the oil sending unit. Good eye with the oil temp sensor, I missed that. I had read about it long ago and forgotten that it was ID'd in that swap guide. I guess I was just confused, because the diagram in the below link shows the temp sensor located where the sending unit goes! Looks like it may be a diagram error?

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...TE)&PNC=22630D

Anyway, thanks for the response! How's your swap coming? My engine is still on the stand. I'll have it buttoned up Sunday. Replacing the galley gaskets currently.

10-19-2018, 11:07 PM

Slamrod

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Quote:

Originally Posted by User1

Def agree, this new color scheme burns my eyes lol. Right now im practically done with the motor, I have it 99% ready to drop into the car with all the accessories reattached, LW flywheel and stage 1 installed along with an HLSD trans i picked up. Just sitting nice and pretty in my workspace. Not going to be able to drop it in until monday at the earliest because of my work schedule, and I still need to do the wiring portion, and do all the fluids - but thats peanuts. I should be firing her up for the very first time tuesday at the latest. So excited to almost have my max back, Ive been dailying an old chevy pickup and that thing handles like an anchor. Going to feel like im driving a god damn race car with this new setup lol.

10-19-2018, 11:44 PM

User1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Slamrod

Yep, wiring is cake. I wired up the inverters as I reconditioned a wiring harness I bought separately. Looks nice. I cut a bunch of the old split loom and tape off and replaced it with new split loom and Tesa tape. I'll get the injector harness finished and get some pictures up of the entire reconditioned engine harness. Not that it's rocket science, but quick reference for anyone paying attention: The inverter wiring image on the Nisformance guide is for Bank 1 only, as the leads are red, yellow, and black. Bank 2 leads are red, red/green, and black. See 2003 FSM pages EC 339 and EC 340 respectively for diagrams.

I was going to try to get away with not removing the primary timing chain to replace galley gaskets so that I wouldn't have to bother with anything timing related but I goofed and it skipped a tooth at the crank! So I went ahead and timed the motor, which took about an hour and a half cranking on the crankshaft with a 25" breaker bar. I'll never do that again! At least I know the motor is nice and tight. Great compression! Being new to this motor I don't have a clue about it spec wise and other than the FSM for reference I decided to reach out to Darren at Nisformance and Moncef at AdminTuning for their guidance regarding a solution. Both agreed it wasn't a big deal and seemingly easy to correct. Great guys, those two. They have helped me out quite a bit. Nice to know there are such enthusiasts still out there for such an old vehicle! I'll be honest, my heart sunk when I released the tensioner/guide and heard that chain drop on the crank sprocket! I was terrified! Mostly because it meant I would have to actually read the FSM timing section and understand it! Yeah, I'm lazy. But I think we've got it figured out.