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You need OCD medication or you'll end up in the looney bin.
If these three little O-rings aren't sealed properly and require me to pull the engine, front timing cover and upper oil pan again to replace them I will DEFINITELY end up in the looney bin!
On that note, I forgot to ask, other than the idiot light flickering or being on, are there any other symptoms specific to or characteristic of the VQ that I should look for that would indicate that there is a problem with either the oil pump O-rings or the timing cover gallery plate O-rings?
If these three little O-rings aren't sealed properly and require me to pull the engine, front timing cover and upper oil pan again to replace them I will DEFINITELY end up in the looney bin!
On that note, I forgot to ask, other than the idiot light flickering or being on, are there any other symptoms specific to or characteristic of the VQ that I should look for that would indicate that there is a problem with either the oil pump O-rings or the timing cover gallery plate O-rings?
This way I know clearly if I am within 2014 FSM spec:
SERVICE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (SDS)
A
SERVICE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (SDS)
Oil Pressure
INFOID:0000000009469253
LU
Unit: kPa (kg/cm 2 , psi)
Engine speed
Approximate discharge oil pressure
Idle speed More than 98 (1.0, 14)
2,000 rpm 294 (3.0, 43)
6,000 rpm 392 (4.0, 57)
Yes, only three of the four mounting points for the AC compressor are being used. The two front, and the top rear are all I am using. 5th gen hardware fits the 7th gen compressor. It's triangulated, so I'm not worried about the absence of the lower rear mounting location. I would have corrected this by having my welder TIG a flange to the compressor body at the lower rear mounting location and drilling out a bolt hole but I simply have not had the time. Perhaps in the future. As far as the alternator output, I'm not sure what you mean? My alternator was born with a 270 amp output.
Also, this retrofit was relatively easy once I had the time to actually execute it. Only three primary modifications are needed:
1) High pressure power steering hose: Have a hydraulic hose shop sell you a flare fitting for the pump, and convert the lower end of the hose to flare with a 90 degree elbow to clear the 7th gen return line coming out of the pump.
2) The 7th gen compressor will accept 5th gen line set and fittings, however they need to be bent accordingly to route upwards as close to 5th gen line routing as possible, and the flanges need to be rotated (using heat and aluminum solder). I did this by eye and a guess with my hydraulic hose guy. I took both old and new compressors to him, along with the line set, eyeballed approximately where the lines needed to be and he modified my line set for $34 dollars. I believe he used a 7th gen high pressure fitting for the 5th gen hose but I don't remember (I bought brand new 5th and 7th gen line sets for him to work with).
3) The 7th gen AC compressor is a two lead compressor vs our 5th gen single lead. 7th gen compressor must be grounded to the chassis. I modified my AC/Alternator sub harness by splicing in the new plug that came with my alternator, and cutting off and splicing the old AC compressor harness connector to the new compressor.
If you have swap experience, or are experienced enough to even consider a job this involved, the rest of the hurtles you'll encounter (oil cooler line routing, and other little stuff) are trivial.
That said, I have three main concerns about the quality of my assembly:
1) I hope to GOD the left oil gallery O-ring didn't fall when I was installing the front timing cover. I didn't see or percieve anything fall as I was installing the cover but I don't vividly recall a visual confirmation of placement immediately after the cover was mated, and the left O-ring did fall out earlier in the day after being bumped and I had to put it back in the hole. I don't know why I didn't think of using assembly or lithium grease on this part. I will in the future! I did blow some compressed air into the outer cover port and look through the IVT cover hole before it was installed and didn't see any oil streak out at the point to front cover mates to the rear cover where the O-ring seals and it felt like there was good pressure build up but I don't know. I have lost sleep over this one. I don't want to pull that front cover again.
2) Upper oil pan O-rings, I hope to GOD these were still in place when I installed the upper oil pan! I got smart this time and used assembly grease to hold these in place. They are a bit oversized and you do have to work them in. I did the upper oil pan installation with the engine rotated 90 degrees rather than upside-down as I couldn't rotate the engine 180 degrees on the engine stand because of coolant log clearance issues and I wasn't disassembling any of that.
3) I had just RTV'd the upper oil pan and had it semi set in place on the block aligned with the dowel pins before I noticed that my 12mm socket and ratchet was about 10 inches out of my reach, so as I reached to grab my ratchet and slightly let off the upper oil pan for a split second, the RTV which had already made contact with the block separated approximately 10mm or so, enough to pull apart the wet gasket bead! I was so pissed! I mated the pan to the block and carried on. I am contemplating pulling the front timing cover back off to check gallery O-rings as well as pulling the upper oil pan back off and starting over with a proper bead of RTV.
Or maybe I am crazy, and I worry too much...
Lessons learned.
This is my theory on engines ,generally it's not worth it to take it too much apart. For the multiple hours you do that ,you could make enough money to buy another. There like batteries,just get another.
Just do what's necessary. Replacing the head ,gaskets ,timing covers ,ect. Not worth the time, Just replace engine.
You could never seal the engine as good as the factory. Keep engine stuff to a minimum.
This is my theory on engines ,generally it's not worth it to take it too much apart. For the multiple hours you do that ,you could make enough money to buy another. There like batteries,just get another.
Just do what's necessary. Replacing the head ,gaskets ,timing covers ,ect.
Not worth the time, Just replace engine. You could never seal the engine as good as the factory. Keep engine stuff to a minimum.
I think I used too much RTV on the lower pan anyway. May as well pull it off and redo it and not have to worry about clogged pickups, oil passages, dry bearings, etc./ Since I have it off, may as well pull upper pan off and redo it since I have access to the fasteners. It wouldn't be logical to leave it the way it is with these concerns and have it fail in 50k miles over something I could have easily corrected while the engine was still on a stand. I'll do a complete cost spreadsheet after it runs, but including the one thousand I paid for the car, I'm in the $7k ballpark for this car so far, I want it to last!
I'll snap a few photos of the squeeze-out on the lower pan and you guys can tell me what you think. I think it should be redone. I'm also sick of looking at this thing on an engine stand and not in the car and my intuition tells me it will be alright. Not sure which to go with just yet. The RTV is ultra grey and it will have had several days to cure. The stuff is pretty hard already and it's been just about 30hrs. I'm not too sure I'll need to worry about it breaking off inside the pan.
This is my theory on engines ,generally it's not worth it to take it too much apart. For the multiple hours you do that ,you could make enough money to buy another. There like batteries,just get another.
Just do what's necessary. Replacing the head ,gaskets ,timing covers ,ect.
Not worth the time, Just replace engine. You could never seal the engine as good as the factory. Keep engine stuff to a minimum.
Oh, Right Stuff will seal it better than factory, guaranteed.
I used ultra black on my swaps and let it set up before tightening. It's never gonna leak. I always reuse the half moon seals, b/c they're already shrunk from age and let RTV do the rest (most common leak besides RMS).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-25-2018 at 02:37 AM.
I think I used too much RTV on the lower pan anyway. May as well pull it off and redo it and not have to worry about clogged pickups, oil passages, dry bearings, etc./ Since I have it off, may as well pull upper pan off and redo it since I have access to the fasteners. It wouldn't be logical to leave it the way it is with these concerns and have it fail in 50k miles over something I could have easily corrected while the engine was still on a stand. I'll do a complete cost spreadsheet after it runs, but including the one thousand I paid for the car, I'm in the $7k ballpark for this car so far, I want it to last!
I'll snap a few photos of the squeeze-out on the lower pan and you guys can tell me what you think. I think it should be redone. I'm also sick of looking at this thing on an engine stand and not in the car and my intuition tells me it will be alright. Not sure which to go with just yet. The RTV is ultra grey and it will have had several days to cure. The stuff is pretty hard already and it's been just about 30hrs. I'm not too sure I'll need to worry about it breaking off inside the pan.
I wasn't commenting on your work. I was just trying to say , don't make more work for yourself than you have too.
I think it's workable, but I am not responsible for damages LOL
I'll pull them. A little pain now for a lot less pain later. The best tutorial on the subject I have found in all my years as an internaut, my gift to the Org:
I'm pulling it all apart and doing it over again. Front timing cover and upper and lower pans. Better safe than sorry. Can I reuse the IVT cover gasket and front main seal? I'll order new half moon gaskets and I already have new timing cover o-rings and oil pump o-rings.
I'm pulling it all apart and doing it over again. Front timing cover and upper and lower pans. Better safe than sorry. Can I reuse the IVT cover gasket and front main seal? I'll order new half moon gaskets and I already have new timing cover o-rings and oil pump o-rings.
Can reuse anything as long as it isn't damaged. I have IVT gaskets with no coating on them except around the oil passages and they seal 100%. You can pick RTV off the half moons.
It's not worth the effort to me. Timing cover is a *****.
Can reuse anything as long as it isn't damaged. I have IVT gaskets with no coating on them except around the oil passages and they seal 100%.
Ok thanks. I'm going to take Friday and Saturday night off. This will give me a three day weekend. This car will be running on or before Sunday. I hate scraping gasket material almost as much as I hate sanding primer, or anything for that matter, but I need this to be done. I'll worry every time I get in the car if I don't. A little assembly grease on all 4 o-rings and a little less RTV this time around.
Ok thanks. I'm going to take Friday and Saturday night off. This will give me a three day weekend. This car will be running on or before Sunday. I hate scraping gasket material almost as much as I hate sanding primer, or anything for that matter, but I need this to be done. I'll worry every time I get in the car if I don't. A little assembly grease on all 4 o-rings and a little less RTV this time around.
I used RTV on the...original O rings lmfao. Ain't nobody got time to wait for that **** to come in the mail lol
Been 4 yrs on the maxi and over a year and 20k+ on the G35 :P
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-25-2018 at 10:18 PM.
Ok thanks. I'm going to take Friday and Saturday night off. This will give me a three day weekend. This car will be running on or before Sunday. I hate scraping gasket material almost as much as I hate sanding primer, or anything for that matter, but I need this to be done. I'll worry every time I get in the car if I don't. A little assembly grease on all 4 o-rings and a little less RTV this time around.
Some don't recommend it but i use a roloc pad on a right angle grinder. A red is less aggressive to take RTV off.
I don't scrape . Kiss the surface and keep it flat.
Squeeze out pulled from inside of front timing cover:
RTV still wet in small channels:
Now this is just sad... My brain had clearly already clocked out for the day when this happened. RTV still very wet. Engine was assembled at 2am Monday morning, 24 Dec..
The original reason this was broken down again, only to find that the oil gallery O-rings were in their proper places behind the timing cover. Oh well. I had to know.
As well as oil pump O-rings which were also in their proper places. Note squeeze-out along inner block.
Squeeze-out peeled from inside upper oil pan:
A little more RTV squeeze-out nonsense:
Front cover was "ok". I did a better, possibly acceptable job on it as far as not using excessive amounts.
My bad:
No wonder the upper and lower pan fasteners felt squishy when I was torquing everything down? Oops! I guess the part in the FSM about cleaning old RTV from fasteners and holes was important...
I knew this was a hack job immediately after I had finished getting it together at 4am Monday morning. This kind of work is out of character for me. I was tired and in a rush. I knew it would all be coming apart again soon. I usually catch myself when I fvck things up like this. Glad I did this time! I will get it all back together tomorrow and have a great feeling about it all! First build blunders. Lessons learned. At least now I know that all four of the O-rings I wasn't certain about were just fine and dandy in their little O-ring homes the whole time and I was a nervous wreck for nothing. Again.
I don't sweat about RTV in the bolt holes. It's not like it's much better from the factory.
I have a whole used engine to rob parts from before I throw it away. I might try to grind up a few thread chasers with old engine bolts. Or look for brass pipe cleaners around 10mm. I don't know. Maybe I'll just clean the fasteners really well and hit the holes with brakleen and air. There's a bunch of shlt in some of them so I'll have to do something.
Definitely clean the old RTV out of the blind holes. I snapped a piece off because of excess RTV. Like you, I had to redo the RTV which had just been done. It was because I assembled the engine, but had to pull the pans back off when I realized the windage tray was still on the bench.
Definitely clean the old RTV out of the blind holes. I snapped a piece off because of excess RTV. Like you, I had to redo the RTV which had just been done. It was because I assembled the engine, but had to pull the pans back off when I realized the windage tray was still on the bench.
sometimes all you can do is just shake your head and laugh.
I have an old crazy neighbor who told me a hood story on this topic. Back when he was a young dude he worked in a shop and was doing his first full engine rebuild, the whole 9 yards. He had it all buttoned up and he grabs his boss to show him that hes done. The boss goes to a counter where the parts previously were laid out and shows my neighbor a stray bolt and asks him what it is. Neighbor has no idea, and so instead of going home for the night, he works overnight to tear the motor down again. In the morning the boss comes back and my neighbor finished tearing the motor down and putting it back together, yet still had the extra mystery bolt. Turns out, the boss placed it there. My neighbor had it right the first time, and had to redo it for no reason at all. The boss then explains that if you are not confident in your work and cant trust yourself that you did it right, then the shop isnt for you. My neighbor said it was one of the best life lessons he ever got. If youre gonna be ****, you gotta also be confident in your work.
or, you learn to make a checklist like i did because youre too scatterbrained to not miss a step
If its free its for me lol. Seriously though toss those intakes on ebay, about $50 a pop. Throttlebodys have some money too. Cant make out what else you got, but you can definitely get yourself a pack of beer with whatever aluminum scrap you got in there.
I don't like the angle. How the hell does this even happen?
Much better. Re-drilled and relocated. Pain in the *** but that's what I get for installing parts 3 minutes after I wake up after a night shift. Bolts were difficult enough to manage from underneath (lining up lock nuts with a wire and piece of tape) so I can only imagine the headache this job would be with an engine and heat exchangers installed.
Tight
That sucker ain't goin anywhere. I'll tap into the radiator fan high speed lead for power. This fan only draws 4 amps. Computer controlled, no extra switches, relays, no bull$hit. Easy.
There's one on the left and the right side a grommet goes in there. one for each ,then the condenser sits and plugs in there.Very thin but it looks close.
There's one on the left and the right side a grommet goes in there. one for each ,then the condenser sits and plugs in there.Very thin but it looks close.
Ohhhhhhh yeeeeeeeaaaahhhh......!!!! I forgot about those! So yeah, I guess not? I forgot where I pulled the condenser from when I removed the engine several months ago. That was the hole I used to feed in the nut from inside the support lol. Maybe it will clear? I don't know. I get off work in a couple hours. First thing I'll do is check when I get home. But I'm pretty certain it won't clear! And this right after I talk smack about morons who shouldn't be working on cars! Thanks krismax!
Well, $hit, now where do I put it? And I was so happy with the installation! Solid!
I edited my post with a picture of my car. Looks like it clears.
Looks like it might be close! I even test fit my old condenser against the support but didn't put 2 and 2 together with the holes in the support. I kept looking at the tabs on the bottom of the condenser and I was like, where the hell do these things go???, oh well, F it and bolted up the cooler
If it's close, I'll just smash the condenser up against it. Bending a few fins won't hurt anything. Auto AC systems are grossly over-engineered anyway. I think they are good for like, 5 tons lol. That's why cars get cold, and get cold NOW after you turn them on and blast that AC.
12-24-2018 | 10:56 PM
