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Replaced All Coil Pack Still No Go

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Replaced All Coil Pack Still No Go

Old 01-08-2019, 12:52 AM
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Replaced All Coil Packs Still No Go

Can you please advise me on my 2000 Nissan Maxima 3.0 V6? I changed all the spark plugs and all 6 coil packs ( I paid $70 for all 6 new coil packs on Ebay). On a cheap code scanner I still get codes P1320 (Ignition Signal) and P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected). It won't idle without dying until after it warms up for about 5 minutes then it will run and idle but it still misfires and cuts out real bad just like before I replaced all the coil packs. I can smell fuel out the tail pipe. I hate being stranded at home all week. It used to only cut out when the engine was cold. For the last 6 months it would run real good than cut out and misfire for a while then go back to running good for a while. Now it cuts out and misfires all the time.

Last edited by Driveon; 01-08-2019 at 03:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:04 AM
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Cheapo coil packs usually don't work on VQs and that's not the correct way to deal with a potentially bad CP (unplug one at a time and whichever one results in no change, then you found the bad one).

Your issue sounds more severe than a missing cylinder. Can you go into more detail of what you mean by cutting out? A video (well audio) would be pretty nice, too.
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:17 AM
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Thanks for the advice Child_uv_KoRn. My phone will record audio but I don't know if I can get it into my computer to upload it somewhere.
Yes, I should have checked the forums first about cheap coil packs. I thought parts were parts. The new $75 alternator I bought on Amazon and installed works good. There should be a law against selling bad parts. I don't think the after market coils would make it cut out I think they just cause the P1320 error code and I could tolerate that if I can get the engine to stop misfiring so bad it cuts out,

By cutting out I mean the engine dies and or almost dies, the exhaust pops and rattles when I press the accelerator, and it has a big reduction in power and rpm's like maybe all the cylinders or more than one cylinder misfires at once.

Since the misfire is a lot worse when the engine is cold and has less misfire when the engine is hot after watching this youtube video
I wonder if it might be an intake manifold gasket leak since the intake manifold would expand with heat and leak less?
But is a vacuum leak consistent with the gas smell coming out of the tail pipe when the engine is running?

Last edited by Driveon; 01-08-2019 at 06:11 PM. Reason: to add more
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Old 01-09-2019, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Driveon View Post
Thanks for the advice Child_uv_KoRn. My phone will record audio but I don't know if I can get it into my computer to upload it somewhere.
Yes, I should have checked the forums first about cheap coil packs. I thought parts were parts. The new $75 alternator I bought on Amazon and installed works good. There should be a law against selling bad parts. I don't think the after market coils would make it cut out I think they just cause the P1320 error code and I could tolerate that if I can get the engine to stop misfiring so bad it cuts out,

By cutting out I mean the engine dies and or almost dies, the exhaust pops and rattles when I press the accelerator, and it has a big reduction in power and rpm's like maybe all the cylinders or more than one cylinder misfires at once.

Since the misfire is a lot worse when the engine is cold and has less misfire when the engine is hot after watching this youtube video
I wonder if it might be an intake manifold gasket leak since the intake manifold would expand with heat and leak less?
But is a vacuum leak consistent with the gas smell coming out of the tail pipe when the engine is running?
A big vac leak could do it. Could also be a sensor (cranks and maf are trouble makers). You can spray a lot of brake cleaner/starting fluid around the upper IM gasket and into the intake and see if there's any change. Also, check the intake boot and vac hoses for splits (been a lot of ppl finding boots ripped open at this age).
I doubt it's the issue, but you could pull some plugs and check the condition.
Rule of thumb is to snag all of the sensors from junkyard (freesies :P) and a couple coil packs. Then you don't have to pay a lot of money for parts that you have no idea if they'll work or not.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:30 AM
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I changed all the spark plugs about 60 miles ago. It took me most of a day to get one of the spark plugs out because a piece of rubber would not let the socket engage the spark plug. I had to tape 1/2" cpcv pipe to a shop vac and unstick the pieces with a stiff wire to get then out with the shop vac..
I would have to drive about 100 miles to get to a cheap you pull it type junk yard with older vehicles. The junk yards around here crush every thing over 10 years old and charge 1/2 dealer cost for all parts.
I suppose I should do a compression check on it as soon as I get a compression gauge but I have had some really low compression on some other engines in the past but they never had a misfire like this.
If it has a vacuum leak would that make the needle on a vacuum gauge jump around?

Last edited by Driveon; 01-09-2019 at 03:39 AM.
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