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Disabling the immobilizer

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Old 05-01-2019, 08:52 PM
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Disabling the immobilizer


Is there anyone out the that can take my ecu and get rid of the nats ? I put a vq30dek from a 2000 maxima in my 1999 saturn sl2 and the nats it's making finishing this very difficult

Last edited by Cronicjohnson; 05-01-2019 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cronicjohnson
Is there anyone out the that can take my ecu and get rid of the nats ? I put a vq30dek from a 2000 maxima in my 1999 saturn sl2 and the nats it's making finishing this very difficult
Buy nissan data scan and a cable for it and make sure to wire up the nats the way it should be and program a key. That's really all you can do
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Violator
Buy nissan data scan and a cable for it and make sure to wire up the nats the way it should be and program a key. That's really all you can do
There seriously no other way besides running all the security stuff? I dont even know where to start on writing that stuff in the diagrams on the fsm are not very helpful
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:29 PM
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My first question is did you wire up the fuel pump? And the power to the ECU(main power supply section in the EC portion of FSM). You'll need the ignsw and start signal to the ECM, power for the ECM, and the power to the fuel pump/fuel pump relay. This is only about a dozen or so wires, I think that probably covers it all for a 3.0 ECU to start, there's gonna be more for the gauge clusters and everything to work right


You're talking to the right person because I just swapped an 03 ECM into my 98 and had to wire up NATs and it looks like the same setup. 1 sensor (aka immobilizer) that reads the key. EL 323 is the diagram you want, it needs a 12v always on, 12v ign in on/start position, the ground, and the 1 wire that communicates with the ECU. Go to a junkyard with a Phillips screwdriver and get yourself the immobilizer and cut off the connector with it to make wiring easier


At the bottom of the diagram the immobilizer is labeled as NATS IMMU, terminal 8 the white/blue wire is your 12v battery source, 7 red/yellow is your 12v on/start wire, orange goes to the orange wire in terminal 116 on the ecu(foldout section has pinout the color should match or you're looking at it wrong). The green/orange wire is just for the security light

You wired up the fuel pump and everything for this swap but you couldn't get this part figured out?

Last edited by Violator; 05-01-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Cronicjohnson
There seriously no other way besides running all the security stuff? I dont even know where to start on writing that stuff in the diagrams on the fsm are not very helpful
Not unless someone has deleted the check in the ROM (haven't heard of it yet), but almost no one is even playing with 3.0 ECU, just 3.5. You would have more luck with 3.5 swap (nats delete already completed iirc).

Search for the nissan open source ecu flashing groups and see/ask, but I think only basic definitions have been completed on 3.0.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 05-02-2019 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Violator

You wired up the fuel pump and everything for this swap but you couldn't get this part figured out?
I kept the factory wiring from the saturn to run the fuel pump lights etc. Just pulled the ECU harness and through the maxima harness in it.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Not unless someone has deleted the check in the ROM (haven't heard of it yet), but almost no one is even playing with 3.0 ECU, just 3.5. You would have more luck with 3.5 swap (nats delete already completed iirc).

Search for the nissan open source ecu flashing groups and see/ask, but I think only basic definitions have been completed on 3.0.
Even the 3.5 nats delete is prvate and you have to pay to get it done, still the problem I think is that he thought with the engine harness and computer that the engine would run. 2000 gauge cluster needs wired in if you want a speedometer, the engine harness/ECU needs powered, the signal to the fuel pump needs wired, nats needs wired, and theres 2 wires from the ignition switch. Obd2 data link connector will also need wired if you wanna even wanted to delete nats, read engine codes, and program a key

Last edited by Violator; 05-02-2019 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Violator
Even the 3.5 nats delete is prvate and you have to pay to get it done, still the problem I think is that he thought with the engine harness and computer that the engine would run. 2000 gauge cluster needs wired in if you want a speedometer, the engine harness/ECU needs powered, the signal to the fuel pump needs wired, nats needs wired, and theres 2 wires from the ignition switch. Obd2 data link connector will also need wired if you wanna even wanted to delete nats, read engine codes, and program a key
I have the ecu wired in, my car runs on spray just no injector pulse because the nats.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Cronicjohnson
I kept the factory wiring from the saturn to run the fuel pump lights etc. Just pulled the ECU harness and through the maxima harness in it.
Go back up to read my how-to wire up the nats it's just 4 wires for 1 sensor. Pretty easy. It will be way easier than repinning a 2000 harness to a pre-97 ecu and it's the same process I had to do for my 03 swap. Buy a blank key off eBay, nissan data scan and whatever cheap cable they say is compatible for the 2000 model and program the key to the car

Last edited by Violator; 05-02-2019 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:40 AM
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Get an 01 ECU and Immobilizer and 01 key,prob get them for $150.Get the Nissan data scan 2 and connector (prob $70 )And that will be able to get rid of it.I am not sure if the 00 stuff will work with NDS2 .

BTW bypass the antifreeze fluid on the IACV if you don't want a burnt out ecu.

Last edited by krismax; 05-02-2019 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by krismax
Get an 01 ECU and Immobilizer and 01 key,prob get them for $150.Get the Nissan data scan 2 and connector (prob $70 )And that will be able to get rid of it.I am not sure if the 00 stuff will work with NDS2 .

BTW bypass the antifreeze fluid on the IACV if you don't want a burnt out ecu.
Is this a common thing to happen? Maybe that's why there is a section toasted on my ecu. But the car drove and idled fine perplexing
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Cronicjohnson
Is this a common thing to happen? Maybe that's why there is a section toasted on my ecu. But the car drove and idled fine perplexing
Yes two of my cars had it. And the auto motor mounts do it.

But even if you bypass it the antifreeze may be in the IACV and may still burn it over time.
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