Theres one near me with 190k, problems the seller told me so far is a check engine light and some rust in one of the wells. I know about the renault merger back in 2000 and im still not sure exactly what year it started to affect nissan cars. This car would be my primary commuter for atleast the next 4 months or so as i plan to get something else after i get some income.

is this something that is worth getting and that will last me

 

The engine and transmission is pretty reliable, but Nissan has a problem with body rust. One thing to check is the support below the radiator. Just kneel down and look under the bumper. If it has rusted out, you will see it. This is very important as the engine uses this support.

As long as the previous owner has had the regular maintenance done, and you continue to do so, the car will give you good service.

But at 200K, the car probably needs new struts and shocks. I would recommend that you replace all the rubber bushings for the sway bar, and check the inner and outer tie rod ends.

 

Reliable? Not really, kinda average after owning theee of various years and miles. But they sure are really fun cars to drive for some reason

 

1995 to 2001 Maximas are very reliable IMO. One of the best engines ever.

 

You're crazy lol

 

01's are very reliable. Issues other than rust would be the electronics. The computers in these tend to "fry" unexpectedly if they have an issue with the idle controls or electronic engine mounts. The work around is to do a coolant bypass on the iacv and unplug or swap to non-electronic engine mounts.

 

They are good cars but you need to pull the code for the CEL to see what you are up against before buying it.

 

thank you for your in depth reply, id rep you if this forum had that
i notice your range spanned across two generations. did they do something to them starting in 2002?
is that something a tech is able to do or relatively easy where i could attempt it? im not that mechanically incline
yes i have a scanner, i always get the codes if i buy anything

 

In 2002 they switched out the reliable 3.0L engine for a more powerful 3.5L engine that tends to like to burn oil.

 

I bought a 2000 off the lot and I didn't have to change a light bulb in it for 157000. It ran almost 400k before it rotted out.
Never a tranny or engine problem. All electronics kept working without issue. Could have used some body bushings but didn't clunk with the old ones.

I now have a 01 with 187k. I had the idle air control valve go on it but got lucky and it didn't take out the computer. It runs dead quite like it only has 40k on it.

I consider it the most reliable car I've ever been around.

 

I had a 2000 with the vq-30dek. It was very reliable, and so was the transmission. It lasted to 245k when the water pump failed and I just decided to sell it and got the 2008 sl

Basically, if there's no inherent fault with the car (like timing chains on 6th gens) then they are all equally dependable until you hit like ballpark 170k range. Then things start breaking, and it's just regular maintenance at that point. yes, some sooner or later, but It's true with all cars.

I think what it really comes down to is if it was driven by someone's grandma everyday and got all it's regular maintenance, or if it didn't and was later was owned by a hoonigan and then sold to you.

If I'm buying a used car that I know will only last 3 or 4 years, 150k is as high as I'll go and I'm wary of who I'm purchasing it from. The vq30 was nearly bullet proof though.

 

Only a starter, speed sensor and and plugs until 250k with engine/tranny in second car, then it was totaled, again. 8-10k mi OCI with none added in between.
Should have kept it lol. Pump is 50 bucks.

Other repairs? Rear struts, control arms, tie rod ends, rear calipers...and that's it. Radiator would've blew at some point (was almost 200K on first chassis), but 2nd chassis already had a new one.

 

Yeah, there's definitely a lot of stories like that for every manufacturer. It depends on how it was treated. Someone doing engine/trans swaps probably does more to keep the vehicle running well than others. I've had more than a few Nissan's, 5 and 6 gen max, b16 Sentra, old pickups, and soon a 7th gen. I love them. I just wouldn't recommend someone buy a two decade old rusting max (or any manufacturer for that matter) with a cel that's got nearly 200k on the clock when there are better condition 5th gens out there for just a few grand or less that aren't rusted and don't have a cel.

 

Is there any specific codes that I should just walk away from

The seller seems like a standup guy but its sketchy how he doesnt have a scanner. He got the car in a trade for some work he did and he's also mechanically inclined enough to replace a wheel bearing, yet is not bothered enough to pull codes for the cel. Thats just off to me

 

+1

My radiator support is fine, but I do have the wheel well rust. It is a daily driver so not something I am concerned with. I am saving up to buy a used SUV next year but will definitely be keeping the Maxima as a second car.

 

At least spray her down with rust converter, then coat it all in oil of your choosing (linseed oil ftw).

 

Mine is at 135k and going strong. No oil leaks between change of oil.

Run scan for CEL and run a compression test.

 

My 01 has ~140k miles, finally swapped out the coilpacks as I kept getting the p1320 code. No oil leaks, no issues with the tranny, did the coolant bypass as soon as I got a feeling the IACV was going to be trashed. Running strong.

 

My 2001 has 320,000 on the clock. It has been a very good car.

 

My 2001 has 135,000 miles. I've replaced front valve cover gasket, radiator, starter and had the front right wheel bearing. Other than that, I have done the usual of regular oil changes, air filter, spark plugs (once), brakes and tires. I've probably got an alternator going out soon.

Very reliable car in my opinion. Having to put some money into her this year, but in general it has just been oil changes. I'm looking to make this car last over 225K miles minimum.