Pulled the engine Saturday afternoon. 15 hours later I hit the key and it fires right up. Also swapped in an hlsd out of a Sentra ser. Shifts much better with the redline in there vs whatever junk came out.


Initial test drive says it's lean. Feels like it's pulling timing above 3k. Need to get the wideband in.


​​​​On the plus side it probably won't go thru 1.5qts of oil per tank.


09 Maxima engine. Used the 09 lower oil pan, oil pickup, and windage tray. 02 upper oil pan. Should have about 1qt more oil capacity. I'll need to check it with the 09 dipstick. With the 02 stick 5qts puts it right at the low mark. Had to do slight percussive persuading on the tray to clear the 02 upper. Didn't take much.

 

You can tell if it's running lean out of WOT by looking at the fuel trims.

 

Pics or it didn't happen. Don't be like Slamrod.

 

I got more to look into. Calculated load is good. Peaks at 100 then tapers off to about 88. I'll have to check the screenshot to be sure. Maf only peaked at 135 g/s. LTFT is steady at 100. New (roughly 1500 miles on them from the old engine. Not reading the oil burning cylinders. Still nice and clean) denso upstream o2 sensors. Passed all readiness monitors.

It honestly feels similar to what it did when I had a plugged scrubber cat. Runs hard to about 3500 then starts to hesitate slightly. Really feels like timing pull from knock.

Monitoring with snap on modis ultra. I'll probably get it figured out tomorrow.

 

Not much to show. I didn't document much as there's already a ton of info out there.



Empty bay

Sentra spec v trans donating hlsd to the cause

Maxima trans teardown

Maxima trans back together with hlsd

 

Looks good! Thanks!

 

must be so nice to have an LSD.

 

MAF took care of it. Runs hard. Definitely quicker than before

 

New or a good clean out?

 

Good used. I've got half a dozen of them sitting on a shelf. Now that I know it was that I'll buy a new one.

 

You wouldnt happen to have some logs of your MAF voltage before & after your fix that you could share, would you? Im trying to rule out a MAF issue with my tune and need to see what other people’s airflow voltage look like. Would you be able to upload a few logs so I can take a peak?

Edit: specifically, im trying to find out what the normal intensity of voltage oscillation looks like.

 

I'll have to check if the modis can log voltage.

Either way it's still goofy. It'll run great, then next drive it runs bad. It'll run fine in part throttle and then go to get on it, hiccups, then feels like it's in a low timing map. I'll go out and log it later

 

Sounds like youre getting jammed into the high detonation map for some reason, maybe a knock sensor issue? But yeah if youre able to log MAF voltage ill be very grateful, Ive spent several hours scouring the internet and the one and only one pic that has anything to do with what I am looking for is somebody on this forum 8 years ago asking the exact same question Im asking and never getting an answer lol.

 

Pretty sure you're right. It's down about 10 degrees vs when it's running right.

I'll take a look at your thread for the maf v. I suspect the snap off doesn't have as high bitrate as nds so it probably won't show the fluctuations you're seeing. I also can't log knock so I'll probably step up to proper software soon.

 

What did you do for your knock sensor setup, since the 5.5gen and 7thgen use different plugs/harnesses? Maybe theres an issue there? Easy way to test the knock theory is to simply unplug your knock sensor. If theres zero change, then thats probably your problem - unplugging the sensor would automatically put you on the knock map, and if youre already there, you wont feel a change. Going the other direction, you could try a new knock sensor and make sure its wired correctly, or wire in a 560k resistor in lieu of the sensor, which tricks the ECU into thinking the sensor is there and not reporting knock. I had the resistor in since I did my swap, had zero issues with it, car ran great. The difference from going from no sensor to the resistor was insane. I only went back to using the knock sensor since it would be literally f'ing retarded for me to starting tuning without one lol.

Edit: Id like to add that I wouldnt reccomend the resistor as a permanent solution, in case anyone reading was thinking of doing it. Its great, as long as your motor has no issues and nothing bad happens. But when the dope head gas station attendant gives you 87 octane instead of 93 when you have the 17" timing advance done and you dont have a knock sensor to detect all that knock and retard the timing, and youre on a road trip roughly 800 miles away from home - its not so great. Basically if youre going to run the resistor instead of the knock sensor, you have to be hyper **** about every little thing with you car since you are bypassing a pretty damn important safety net feature of the motor.

 

5.5 gen ks and sub harness on bank 1.

I was going to use the 7 gen ks but noticed they weren't shielded the same and read something about differing resistances. For sake of simplicity I used my old is that previously seemed ok.

 

Odd. The way you did it is indeed the "proper" way, although you can use the 7th gen one as well. Different connector/harness but it works (the sensor itself is analog/"dumb", anything handling resistance values is internal to the ECU). Id say that your KS is a dud. I mean its almost certainly a knock issue, and if everything is wired in correctly, and your motor isnt actually knocking, I cant really think of what else it really could be.

 

I agree definitely seems like a knock issue. Almost seems like phantom knock with how random it is. I'll wire up another ks with my spare plugs and bolt it to the back of the head for testing.

Need to look into Nissan data scan if I'm gonna be screwing with the DD more. All this because the damn thing was burning oil.