Hi, I just had scheduled maintenance for my 2002 GLE with 188,000 miles - $2,500 yikes! I was told the internal seal on a rear strut is leaking but I could wait on that. Suddenly now there's noticable bouncing in the front on normal roads, so considering new struts since the engine is sound and I'm planning on keeping this car. Over the years I'm seeing a consensus for KYB GR-2 struts, Moog mounts and OE dust boots.Recommendations are from years ago so want to make sure I'm doing the smart thing.
I'm a senior woman with no garage on a budget averaging 50 miles a week. I was fine with the OE ride til lately. And obviously I'm not doing this work myself. If I go to my local mechanic, or Pep Boys, etc. they won't like me buying my own parts. PepBoys computer only shows Monroe on the front and KYB on the rear! Local mechanic usually uses Monroe. So for the regular consumer - what makes sense?
Thank you!

 

An '02 GLE isn't even worth $2500 with 100k mi. Anything you do to it at this point will be burning cash. Buy what you can afford and try to have it installed as cheaply as possible. A 70 year-old female with an 18 year old money-pit car on a desktop computer asking for auto repair advice on an internet forum.... ok?

 

How about if I'm a 22 year old MBA student on a limited budget without a garage on a smartphone who was given the car by my now deceased father who bought it new and had maintained it religiously?

 

User1 is fussy sometimes. It's ok to ignore time to time. What is your budget?

 

As little as possible, engine is sound, it looks great, hoping for 225,000 miles/5-10 years... If I buy KYB struts can I economize on boots and mounts? Or mix brands front and rear?
I hope I'm not asking dumb questions and p*** anyone off.

 

That should be no problem. My first one got 450k + and my current one has 200+.

​​​​​​Use oem everything you can as far as mounts, boots, etc. I don't have any experience buying struts for these cars as I have went with coilovers. I did by struts once but they don't make the ones I bought anymore.

 

GR-2 struts alone are $250 from Rockauto (for reference $500 at NAPA) . Boots and mounts will add about $150. Then you mechanic needs to disassemble the old stuff just to reuse the springs and then assemble the new which will add labor cost.

The most cost effective option is quick struts. The strut, coil spring, mount, and boots/bushings are all replaced at once as an assembly. No special tools, no extra parts, quick easy install. Rockauto has FCS $200 or Monroe $400 option (that's all 4 BTW) plus shipping. Your local parts store or mechanic will charge more like $500-600 for the parts.

 

Abby, what part of the world are you in?

 

The part where she's cool with paying $2500 for "routine maintenance" on an 18 year old beater that books for $800, then wants advice from us on the cheapest possible solution to one of the most critical systems of the car. Stop feeding the trolls!

 

Go with the KYB’s. Or you can be like me and put in some BC Coilovers. 😂

 

Abby where are you located? Maybe some members can help you out? But KYB GR-2's with MOOG or Raybestos bumpstop/boots and strut mounts should suffice!

 

thank you for asking -- I'm on Southside of Atlanta and will go anywhere around Atlanta. I would love to buy parts and pay for labor to save money, if there's anyone willing nearby! Otherwise, I did get a phone estimate from NTW for Monroe Spectrum Quick Struts all the way around for $950. I'm sure that doesn't include sway bar end links, control arm, etc.
My mechanic guesstimated ~ $1800 (without looking at it)!!
Even though the mechanic only mentioned one rear strut is leaking - no rush - when I pulled out of there and since, on normal suburban/connector roads, the front end is bouncing over any hump in the road. I had asked him to check suspension... Not sure why so bad all of a sudden, yes the car has 180,000 miles but I don't remember it that bouncy before. I have read that typically struts wil need to be replaced by 100,000 miles.
I look forward to reading your thoughts -

 

Instead of going to all those stores, go eBay. Get the full assembly...6 bolts and nuts and the new one is on. Must get an alignment after. Too bad you not close by....

 

Go back to "your mechanic", tell him the symptoms, get a diagnosis and an estimate to repair. Then find another reputable shop, tell them the symptoms and get another diagnosis and estimate to repair. Do not tell the second shop what the first shop gave you. Compare and ask questions. Ask the mechanics to look over the car thoroughly and tell you what other repairs are likely over the next year or so.

Read the excellent advice offered here FAQ | Salem Boys Auto Read the section about how to avoid guesses that simply install more and more parts at a car until finally the problem is fixed. Ask these questions: "Is your diagnosis a guess or a fix?" "What symptom will your repair recommendation fix?" "I want to keep my old parts. If the new parts do not fix the symptom, then do you agree to put my old parts back on and refund my money?" Read the first 12 FAQs on the right hand side that talks about finding and dealing with a repair shop.

 

Abby personally I think $1800 is extremely high considering that the parts cost are as follows on Rock Auto:

TOP CHOICE **(DIYer)**
1. Front Struts (KYB GR-2)- $77.79 ea
2. Rear Struts(KYB GR-2)- $50.79 ea.

DECENT CHOICE
1. Front Struts (Gabriel)- $28.79
2. Rear Struts (Gabriel)- $14.15

DISCOUNT/CLOSE OUT SALE
1. Front (TRW)- $24.79 ea
2. Rear (Sensen)- $15.84 ea
3. Front (API)- $16.91(L) ea; $15.82(R) ea
4. Rear (API)- $14.61ea
5. Front (OSC)- $16.32 ea
6. Rear (OSC)- $16.32 ea

FRONT STRUT & COIL MOUNT ASSEMBLY ** Best Bang For The Buck**
1. Gabriel Ultra ReadyMount
a. Front- $109.79 ea
b. Rear- $ 76.99 ea

2. Monroe Quick-Strut
a. Front-$111.79 (L); $111.99(R)
b. Rear- $78.79

3. FCS
a. Front- $63.79 ea
b. Rear- $42.79 ea

 

Abby maybe the Strut & Coil assembly would be best and most cost effective and quicker repair! It's not worth $1800 maybe $400 labor and you buy the parts! So I would ask what the labor cost is to install strut & coil assembled units, which involve no disassembly of coil from strut but come as entire bolt in units as described in post #13 except I would do Rock Auto instead of eBay....I see the NTW estimate was $950....Which is better than $1800! The total parts from Rock Auto are as follows:
Monroe Quick Struts- $381.16 (not including shipping/tax)
Gabriel ReadyMount- $373.56 (not including shipping/tax)
Abby what I would do if I were you is purchase the parts and get a quote for labor to install all 4 corners! I usually do them for $400 labor it's not hard, but this DOESN'T include lower control arms, swaybars, swaybar links....GL!

 

CMAX03 has established that the $1800 estimate to only replace shocks is unrealistically high. Do you have a written estimate? No, because you told the mechanic what you wanted and asked for a price without allowing him to look at the vehicle and verify that you ACTUALLY NEED new shocks both front and back. Take your car to at least 2 shops and get at least two diagnosis (none over the phone), give them the symptoms, ask questions and leave with written estimates. Post BOTH estimates here.

Do you want to overpay for shocks, and a month from now overpay for links, and another month from now overpay for lower control arms? If the answer is yes, then you don't need our advice. If the answer is no, then you'll have to make the effort to find 2-3 reputable shops in your area, get a thorough inspection of all suspension components and find someone who will NOT charge $1800 to install front struts and rear shocks.

I cannot agree with the suggestion that you buy the parts and ask someone to install them due to the following reasons: (1) You bear all responsibility if any of the parts you supply fail and need a warranty exchange. You will then pay parts and labor twice because the old parts were thrown away and you have no recourse but to order more new parts to keep the car running. (2) You might also pay labor charges just to find out the parts do not fit or some parts are missing. The shop will then reinstall your old parts, tell you to get the correct parts or missing parts and you will return and have to pay labor again assuming you were able to get the correct parts the second time. You cannot rely on a mechanic to just look at the parts you bring in and tell you those will work. Not all mechanics are sufficiently experienced or care to make sure that what you bring in fits and all necessary parts are there because you did not give them an opportunity to inspect the vehicle before you bought the parts. (3) If the shop supplies the parts, then a fair shop will warrant the parts for so many days including labor to exchange or replace if defective. Many shops do not install customer supplied parts because ill will is often generated when something goes wrong. Most shops prefer to take responsibility for providing you with quality parts from sources they trust. (4) Keep the old parts until it known that the new parts fixed the problem. The owner of the shop must be willing to reinstall your old parts and refund your money if their parts and labor do not fix the symptom(s).

 

Hi - I appreciate the replies. I haven't had luck buying parts myself and taking them to mechanic for the reasons Doug mentioned. I will get 2 in-person estimates. Thanks!

 

HI, reaching out again -- if anyone knows of mechanic in Metro Atlanta area, I would like to buy the Monroe or Gabriel strut assemblies and pay for labor. thank you!

 

In the first quote, you admitted having bad luck buying parts yourself and taking them to a mechanic. On the very next quote, a few hours later, you want to buy parts and take them to a mechanic to install. Why do you flip-flop? Where is the diagnosis from a reputable shop that says you need both front and rear assemblies and perhaps other parts?

I sincerely request that your very next post consist of two written shop estimates of parts and labor that also includes in writing, the symptoms you reported to the shop when they agreed to diagnose your vehicle and write the estimate. It has to be obvious that both shops inspected all front and rear suspension components. If you do not post two written estimates, then I strongly suggest that no one here continue to advise you. Furthermore, if you continue to flip-flop without a plausible explanation, then I will request that this thread be closed and that your membership on this board be terminated.

 

Damn, I feel like I paid way too much. Napa premium quick strut $210+tax (2) for front and rear strut was $140+tax (2)
Sway bar links $30 x2
inner tie rod $70 x2
outer tie rod ends $60 x2
LCA's $140 x2
CV axles $140 and $99
Front rotors $130 x2
Rear rotors $70 x2
Front pads $80
Rear pads $60

I bought a 2001 I30 back in 04 and it was ready for junk yard until I replaced all this stuff last month along with rear brake caliper. Still have lateral link and control rod $275 along with trailing arm bushings $140
Tires and alignment $900

I will definitely say that it's not worth it, especially when these cost don't include installation labor (easily an additional $2000 at least, ASE certified)

My car has 300,000 miles on it, I know dumb move but insurance is dirt cheap, tags $29 a year, no car payment and it will cruise at 100 mph. I blame Nissan for making an engine built for the military 😂😂

Abby if you do it, understand that it could cost upwards of $10k to get it right with the comfort of knowing that it will be safe and last a long time. Other stuff to look out for is the radiator, altenator, PS pump and hoses, starter, blower motor for a/c, spark plugs, o-rings on the water pump, driver side window motor, oil leaks, O2 sensors, idle air control valve, pcv valve. Oh and all them little molded rubber vacuum tubes will start to crack, plastic electrical connectors will become brittle. Mechanics can't really avoid breaking some of that stuff and those additional cost will likely be passed on to you.

​​​​​​​Hope this helps.

 

For changing her mind after she found out how expensive her first thought was? Your off your rocker.

Abby your allowed to change your thought process on a car forum. The above reply is ridiculous.

This site has the best gathering of information about our cars but no longer the best gathering of people as forums are die slow deaths. You should check out one of the Facebook groups for 5th gens. You can likely find a reputable member that would have no problem slapping on some quick struts for a few bucks (relative term!). I know a couple max guys in Atl that frequent FB so you should have better luck.

 

I didn't change my mind. I just hadn't had luck in the past finding a mechanic who would put on parts I had purchased. I did get 2 written quotes yesterday, it was the struts, and I did find a shop that will put on the parts I purchase - Mavis Tires. They also have a 25% off sale on struts and labor. They would put on KYB, I am checking to see if I can buy them cheaper online. So now the decision is whether to get the KYB's, Gabriel Ready Mounts or Monroe Quick Struts.

From my experience, the forum is a wealth of knowlege and some members are very helpful. I'm much more knowlegable and have confronted a dealer service ctr that tried to sell me unnecessary gasket covers, saving lots of money.

It seems that some think this forum should only be for DIYers and guys who modifiy their maximas, but I'm guessing there are more and more readers like me, who don't have time, experience, facilities or equipment, and appreciate a place to ask questions about repairs others would do, what's really necessary and how to save money. I think some people would benefit from reading my experience. Isn't that the point?

 

as others have said you have to ignore some comments. that's life. thanks for the appreciation post to the org and I %100 agree this place has a wealth of knowledge and many many helpful people. It sounds like Mavis is the place to go! that's nice you found a good option at this point. now its down to quick struts or KYB. best wishes!

in my experiences most quality shops will install your parts, you just better be certain your customer supplies parts will fit %100 that's it. if not then yea it gets messy. i had a shop tell me one time the piece i supplied didn't fit, and i was dumbfounded because I was certain it would from the studying around here and what others literally posted using that part. later on the shop figured it out after I told them it is proven to fit and figure it out theres no other way. i have never been to that shop again and they are a mile from my house its a shame, but yea ! if you do find a good shop don't let them go! maybe even being a chain store that Mavis may have a good team to rely on and go back to as well.

 

FYI, Mavis quoted $320 labor less $25%, plus $90 alignment. Parts: KYB front & rear less 25%, total parts $700. They said the computer wouldn't provide parts numbers except for an invoice, which sounds fishy.

On CarID I can get KYB front & rear struts $264, KYB or Moog bellows $50 or genuine bellows & bump stop $83, and 4 Moog mounts for $134, total $481 or if only 2 Moog front mounts total $370.
Gabriel Readymounts are $366 on Amazon, Monroe Quick Struts are $423 on RockAuto.

Questions: 1) Is it true that I don't need 2 rear mounts? 2) KYB struts + 2 Moog mounts + 4 moog bellows are same cost as Gabriel Ready Mounts and less than Monroe QuickStruts, Is there a reason I should buy quick mounts with the springs over the KYB's? 3) How about Gabriel vs Monroe? 4) Any reason not to buy from CarID?

Yes I realize I am overthinking this....

 

that labor is pretty good, i was guesstimating $100- 200 labor per corner, i would just look up what KYB's are on your own and see how you want to proceed. but geez this is getting to be a pricey repair. by the way i just found KYB shocks on tire rack for $94 for 1 front, and $67 for 1 rear...

https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...2&autoModClar=

 

Eleven (11) days have elapsed between “... there's noticeable bouncing ...", "... the mechanic only mentioned one rear strut is leaking - no rush ...” and finally getting two professional estimates yesterday.

Meanwhile, over those 11 days, your repeated requests asking for someone to install your parts “on the side” for a break in the labor cost was not and never will be in your best interest until a thorough inspection of the entire suspension by a professional mechanic determines what parts are necessary to resolve the symptom(s).

It is also not in your best interest to comparison shop over the phone without first having had the vehicle inspected twice by professionals and having written diagnosis along with a cost to repair so that you know precisely what type of parts are needed, shocks, and/or mounts, and/or bushings, and/or lower control arms, etc.

Now that you have those estimates (as of yesterday), we have something specific to discuss.

I'm hoping you used the link I offered on how to find reputable shops and how to work with them (if you don't already have someone you trust). It may not be in your best interest to find the cheapest shop, or go to the nearest shop. In your situation, I suggest finding a shop with experienced professionals and establishing a working relationship with them. A good shop will want to earn your trust and retain you as a customer.

 

I have Megan racing springs and Gabriell ultra struts from rockauto.com on my 02, car rides so much better on the highway and the struts were like $100 for the whole set + shipping...

also highly recommend energy suspension bushings for the suspension..

 

thank you to everyone for your advice, esp. CMax. To wrap up this thread, I purchased Gabriel Ready Mounts on Amazon (best price) and did find a well-reviewed shop to install for around $375 plus alignment - so total around $800. It is possible! thanks again.

 

$200 a corner installed parts and labor ! nice deal abby ! glad the org helped you in your situation, and thanks for keepin us posted!
and finally ! does the car feel better?

 

It's great to hear that you found a well-reviewed shop to do the work at a reasonable price.

 

So much unnecessary drama in this thread. Go eat a snickers bar ( you know who you are), you'll feel better. We are all here to help each other out. kthxbye

 

How did you know Snickers is my favorite candy bar?
Sorry, Abby, I did go off the deep end. While working as an auto mechanic to earn money for a college education, I had witnessed the unsavory side of this business; the techniques and words spoken to push someone into a sale of something they didn't need, shoddy service by those without the proper training and some stuff that was so much worse. About a year ago, a friend of mine found out what can happen when work is performed by someone "as a side job" in an effort to save money. It did not go well. In the last month, I've offered advice on a case where a dealership performed shoddy work. Fortunately, the bill was paid with a credit card, so they elected to initiate a chargeback. The dealer may respond with a representment, so this case won't be settled until that window has closed (90 days I think). Sometimes, I get too emotionally involved.

 

Thanks Doug apology accepted and everyone's input very appreciated. Mechanic told me the old struts had no play, bottomed out. He first thought the car had been lowered! I was surprised how fast the front struts went from OK to dangerous, it was a scary drive to the shop. I love the Gabriel's ride which feels firmer than when car was new, the mechanic said better quality than Monroe. The hood is noticeably higher from the driver's seat. I hope they last a long time.