Hi,

I'm new here and I'm hoping you guys can help. I bought a 2003 maxima se automatic last month and it had issues running. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, new throttle body with Iacv, new map sensor, new throttle position sensor, new ecm (new to me), new keys, new nat and had them programmed, new spark plugs and caps, and replaced leaking injectors. I made sure the electric motor mounts were unplugged before I replaced all this stuff thanks to this site. The car still won't run. It turns over but idle drops and car dies. It does not matter if I put on the gas or not it still dies. I have no check engine lights. Please help if you can.

 

I was just about to suggest a new IACV, but you already replaced it. Did you perform the relearn procedure for the new throttle body and throttle sensor?

 

You had this problem before you replaced everything listed? I encountered this problem and it was the camshaft position sensor., bank 1 or 2 I don't remember. Also a good idea to scan for codes and see if there are any even if the light isn't on. And for this sensor go OEM.

 

ok I didn't know i need a relearn procedure. I was told it will automatically relearn on its own

 

I had check engine lights for IACV and throttle position sensor. Replaced everything because of what I read on this forum. How the electrical mount is the cause usually. I wanted to make sure it would be reliable. I have no pending codes. I have a decent scanner.

 

did the car have the same problem of dying after starting before replacing those parts? or just the codes but it ran?

 

Had the same problem before I replaced everything. Now codes are gone and problem is still there.

 

This looks like a bad MAF. Check it out - clean or replace.
A bad MAF usually does not throw a code, so it's hard to diagnose.
Edit: The car should run with the MAF disconnected. If it doesn't, then the problem is something else.

 

Very common 5th gen Maxima issue. Especially true if you live in a colder climate. This happened to me about ten years ago. Nissan did not initially design the MAF sensors right. They revised the design sometime after that. The new MAF sensors have a green dot sticker on them. Order a new OEM sensor. Not the cheap eBay stuff. You can try cleaning it, but that rarely works.

 

car still won't run. I am at my whits end. I might have to suck it up and take it to a shop.

 

I already purchased and replaced maf sensor with oem already. Mine has green dot just checked. Purchased a6q Hitachi one which is oem

 

What are the odds that it's a clogged cat or something clogging the exhaust?

 

Well, there is a simple test: Disconnect the MAF and see if the car runs without it (it should, unless there are other problems such as clogged Cats).

 

I did that when you told me yesterday and it still didn't run. Maybe it is a clogged cat then.

 

..

 

Had no idea MAF sensors were known to be bad on 5th Gen. Is it specific to any years or all the way to 04?

 

They can go bad but it's not an overly common issue. When they fail, the car will drive but never go above 3k RPM. Hitachi is a good replacement brand and the car is pretty finicky for good brands, like the coils.

 

Just to update. It turned out to be a faulty fuel pump. It was new but aftermarket. Guess it didn't pump enough because it did work. Shop purchased oem one, installed it, and car fired up. Thanks for all the help

 

My MAF went bad when I reoiled my K&N filter. I was able to diagnose it by unhooking it, with the MAF unhooked it wouldn't rev past around 3,000 rpm and would stall right out when cranked up. . as for your issue, I would suggest anything that could leak in the intake system such as brake booster hose, PCV hoses, vacuum lines, throttle, and throttle body hose. even pulling off the oil cap while the engine is running will cause it to stall, that' how sensitive cars with a MAF sensor are to leaks in the intake system.