I am considering getting a lightweight crank pulley and was wondering how hard is it to get the stock one off.

I was also wondering if using the starter to break the pulley bolt would damage the JWT flywheel?

 

Impact is best way. If it's nice and rusty it might not break free with starter. I'd lube it for a day or two. It's amazing how well that rust holds.

 

I live in central Florida, so far I haven't had any rust issues when it comes to working on this car.

I'm also kind of wondering if the light weight main pulley is even worth it. I wanna squeeze what I can out of this engine before doing the 7th gen swap. I never planned on modding this car but once she hit 300,000 i figured she deserves some goodies. plus I would like to be able to whoop @$$ on my girlfriend's stock G37 coupe lol

 

My vote goes to using the starter trick.

However, a while back I learned of some 5th (?) order vibrations that were measured on a crank after installing a similar aftermarket pulley. Will you see any harm short term? Doubtful, but it would likely increase crank/bearing wear over the long term.

Ill try and dig up the info, but it was enough for me to remove the underdrive and reinstall the stock pulley.

Edit if you want to have a go at the g37. Assuming you have a 3.5; Intake, intake manifold thermal spacers, headers, catback, tune. The pulleys not going to make a huge difference.

 

yeah, I have an 02 3.5 with a 6 speed. so far I have VQ30 exhaust manifolds, Warpspeed Y pipe, gutted cat, full 2.25 exhaust with G35 sedan muffler, VIAS delete, thermal spacers, 75mm throttle body, modded stock airbox with high flow filter, JWT flywheel, 350Z clutch, energy suspension motor mounts, Sentra SE-R spec V H-LSD and Nisformance ECU reflash.

I was thinking I would get a full 2.5" exhaust soon

Does anyone have any other suggestions ?

 

VQs and everything since VG afaik are internally balanced. Stock pulley is heavy as hell cast part with dimples drilled for balancing. The glued rubber holding the two pieces together fails and people drive with it wobbling for many, many, thousands of miles (and it might even fly apart).
That pos will always be less balanced than precision machined billet aluminum. And since it's not a dampener, then it cannot have any positive qualities even if brand new.

 

good point, I'll be ordering one on payday.

 

Link to source info? Id love to read more on if.

 

I decided to go with the 2J pulley

 

Save your money and put it towards headers. I did the math a long time ago, the HP difference is between 0 and 1. (I'm a mechanical engineer, so I do know what I'm talking about)

 

User dynos say about 8 whp. It's outside of margin of error and is reproducible, so there ya go.
80 is a good price. Knock offs were about that much years ago. Drive-ability is slightly noticeable in 6th gear (at least with LW flywheel already). It takes less throttle input while cruising.
It's plenty cheap and a good addition if you're doing everything lightweight. Flywheel, pulley and rims will make a fair acceleration difference. If you want to get crazy those 2 piece rotors are very sexy and quite significant savings (especially compared to 12.6 and 13" single piece upgrades).

Not sure what you want linked. It's just general knowledge of the engine design and pulley.

If you're looking for user experience: Sister's DE-K had it on (till the funeral) for over 130K miles. I put em on all of my ****. Untold numbers of Z/Gs with them on the forums with 100k plus, etc.

 

It's mathematically not possible to gain 9 hp and 12 tq. Like I said, the actual gains are between 0 and 1 but it's not my money so do what you want.

 

The engine / pulley design info.

 

The case for the pulley improves if you consider the effect of underdrive, but still well below the claimed gains.

 

I already ordered it along with the belts. I couldn't think of any other bolts on so i figuered I would just spend the $79.99 + shipping and $34 for belts. they have dyno results posted on the website.