SOLVED. It was the ****ing maf. Tested out perfectly even after I removed it. I decided to do what I hate... Throw parts at it. So I decided to start with the maf. This is not the first time a part tested fine and was somehow bad but first of many mafs lol. Thanks!

Yes, I searched the billion or so threads.

So, I have about 600k miles of experience on the 3.0 VQ. Had a 96 with 310 and have a 2000 with 270 (all driven by my wife or me). The 2000 has sat for a few years. I WAS being good about starting and running and occasionally driving it until last year. So, effectively has sat for 1 year. During that year it had a water leak from the sunroof and got mold. I have cleaned and removed all mold/mildew. I've fixed just about everything on one or the other max. And I'm the guy who figured out the whole VIAS thing back in the day.

I'm now experiencing a start up followed by dying within 10 second or so. No problem starting. Starts up immediately. Then over 10 seconds or so it dies. Give it gas and it dies quicker. There is a bit of a backfire at the end. It restarts perfectly and repeats the process. There is absolutely no hesitation in the startup. Fuel must be getting into the fuel rail each time. This to me seems like a fuel problem - as though something is turning off my fuel flow. As you will see below, fuel pressure seems good from the pump.

I've fixed the infamous starting problems before and it has generally been cam/crank sensor or maf. I have tested all and think they are ok. Initially threw codes for misfire and maf. Codes have been resolved Here's what I've done.

1. Initially threw code for misfire - tested all coils for resistance (yes I know they could still be bad but that wouldn't cause a no start) and found the bad coil and replaced. In the meantime broke two connectors and replaced. Have confirmed they are wired correctly with multimeter and fsm. No more codes.
2. Threw maf code. Replaced with junkyard. Tested the maf and wiring harness according to fsm and it checks out. no more code. Nothing changes in start up with maf unplugged.
3. Plugs are new and correct.
4. Fuel has been drained and new fuel.
5. New fuel filter. I originally thought this was the problem.
6. Tested Fuel pump with pressure guage. Rigged a connection between port from FP to engine with pressure gauge in between. Pump turns on with key (you can hear it prime) and pressurizes according to pressure guage. Pressure stays steady through the point where the engine cuts off. I have a video if interested.
7. Security system seems to be working fine. Getting steady blinking red light. In my experience, if it was NAS related, it would not let it start. But seems fine anyway.
8. Have checked the IACV. Meets fsm resistance. It appears to be working fine. I have a 5spd so no concern about computer damage from coolant.
9 Speaking of 5sp. Yes, I'm pushing in clutch to enable switch. In fact the master was initially bad so clutch stayed in. Master has been replaced and all works fine. (Thank God, I went to a single stainless line).
10. Cam sensor removed and resistance checked and sensor cleaned. Meets fsm specs for resistance.
11. Crank sensors removed and cleaned. *There is no way set out in the fsm to check resistance here (I believe due to the type of sensor) so I'm just going to replace tomorrow.*
12. EGR tested and meets fsm resistance. (I have the version of the 2000 that has an actual egr stepper instead of the tube from the 4th gens and some of the 5th gens.)
13. Homemade smoke vacuum test - found some small leaks which have been repaired for the most part. They are certainly not significant enough to cause the car to die.
14. Have a cold air intake and it is clear.
15. If anyone cares, I also cleaned and bled the brakes and painted the stock wheels black plus oil change.
16. Oh, have cleaned the two ground screws at the front of the front valve cover gasket. And have cleaned my additional grounds from battery to crank case and block.

So, what I really think is happening is that something is cutting off fuel - yes it has gas.

There are a couple things left for me to try:
a. change crank sensors and maf - test replacement with new.
b. test fuel injectors.
c. Confirm exhaust is not blocked. I have headers and a gutted cat so I doubt that.
d. bought a oil pressure switch because housing on mine is broken. I don't get a light or a code but it needs to be fixed anyway.
e. Going to do a compression test but I doubt that has anything to do with it.
f. Last but not least, the computer. There was a lot of moisture in the car and some corrosion on aluminum. Going to pull it tomorrow. But I find it strange that THIS would be the only manifestation.
g. Very last, as I think about it, I may need to go through all of the electrical testing in the fsm to see if there is something in the harness connectors to the sensors. Haven't done that yet.
h. Listing things I just thought about the evap system - hmmm.

So..... if you've got any ideas let me know. Thanks!

 

I fixed my random stalling issue on the 97 SE (auto) by running an additional ground wire to the MAF sensor ground wire. Simply spliced a section of wire to the ground wire on the MAF sensor harness and connected it to the chassis.

Hope that this helps.

 

Interesting. The first time I did my clutch, the car wouldn't start. So I learned here to add extra grounds to the tranny and battery. Might as well as another! Thanks for the help.

 

i am a huge fan of grounding kits, such a great bang for buck, especially older cars

 

I never once did anything with grounds except clean the ones that go on the engine and from alternator to body.

edit: nvm, I can't read.

I think you're gonna have to data log to look for anything that acts stupid or drops out. Seeing as how is slowly dies, surely you can find a reading that goes wonky before it kaputs.
Unless it is ECU like you said, then who knows. I think it's worth a shot if you get a junk yard/ebay one for $25. If you do, get a 2001, so EGR is gone, then just cap that stupid **** off LOL

 

yea i have no experience grounding the transmission, just the big 3, engine block x2 and alternator