chaging oil
chaging oil
guys i dont know how to do my own oil changes so im gonan do mine at a shop this friday. What kind of oil should i tell him to put it(i dont wanna go synthetic) or does he know the standard or something.
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I have been using mobil 1 in my cars since 1978. I used to live in jackson hts and drove into manhattan almost every day. I found that really made a difference but early on, I found that it wasn't good in my old technology 1978 because it was to thin and going around turns fast, I would get an oil pressure drop. All the other cars I had I got over 100k city miles and the insides were so clean they looked new.
I started using mobil 1 in my new altima 35se and noticed a marked improvement in that smooth feel of the motor. Also noticed an increase in fuel efficiency even taking into account that the car is now broken in. I would go for the synthetic if you do it yourself. It costs about the same as if you took it to someone for a regular oil change. Oh, pulling the filter is a snap on my altima which should be in the same location as the maxima, near the right lower fender.
I started using mobil 1 in my new altima 35se and noticed a marked improvement in that smooth feel of the motor. Also noticed an increase in fuel efficiency even taking into account that the car is now broken in. I would go for the synthetic if you do it yourself. It costs about the same as if you took it to someone for a regular oil change. Oh, pulling the filter is a snap on my altima which should be in the same location as the maxima, near the right lower fender.
Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by JBWhitley
I talked to my dealer today when I did get my oil changed, they said you don't need Synthetic untill about 100,000 miles.
I talked to my dealer today when I did get my oil changed, they said you don't need Synthetic untill about 100,000 miles.
If you put synthetic on a high mileage engine it may leak!
Conventional oil gums up inside your engine. If you switch to synthetic after many miles it will clean these deposits up and may cause your engine to leak. Don't go systhetic if you have over about 60K on your engine.
There is some people who think you shouldn't use synthetic until the car breaks in but almost all people feel that you should not use it on high mileage engines if all you have been using is regular.
Change your oil yourself. It really is easy and you don't have to lift your car. Most places don't even drain all of your oil. It takes more than 10 minutes for the oil to drain out of my car.
Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by theMax
dealers don;t know anything!!!
If you put synthetic on a high mileage engine it may leak!
Conventional oil gums up inside your engine. If you switch to synthetic after many miles it will clean these deposits up and may cause your engine to leak. Don't go systhetic if you have over about 60K on your engine.
There is some people who think you shouldn't use synthetic until the car breaks in but almost all people feel that you should not use it on high mileage engines if all you have been using is regular.
Change your oil yourself. It really is easy and you don't have to lift your car. Most places don't even drain all of your oil. It takes more than 10 minutes for the oil to drain out of my car.
dealers don;t know anything!!!
If you put synthetic on a high mileage engine it may leak!
Conventional oil gums up inside your engine. If you switch to synthetic after many miles it will clean these deposits up and may cause your engine to leak. Don't go systhetic if you have over about 60K on your engine.
There is some people who think you shouldn't use synthetic until the car breaks in but almost all people feel that you should not use it on high mileage engines if all you have been using is regular.
Change your oil yourself. It really is easy and you don't have to lift your car. Most places don't even drain all of your oil. It takes more than 10 minutes for the oil to drain out of my car.
1. You can switch to synthetic at any time, even during break-in. However, during the break-in process your oil will become contaminated with metals and you won't be able to take advantage of the extended drain intervals synthetics provide, but it's other benefits still apply.
2. True, the risk of a higher mileage engine developing leaks, for exactly the reason mentioned, increases, but exactly what constitutes high mileaage is very subjective. What number can you put on it?
Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by iwannabmw
It truly amazes me how little dealers actually know, yet they charge so much for their supposed expertise.
1. You can switch to synthetic at any time, even during break-in. However, during the break-in process your oil will become contaminated with metals and you won't be able to take advantage of the extended drain intervals synthetics provide, but it's other benefits still apply.
2. True, the risk of a higher mileage engine developing leaks, for exactly the reason mentioned, increases, but exactly what constitutes high mileaage is very subjective. What number can you put on it?
It truly amazes me how little dealers actually know, yet they charge so much for their supposed expertise.
1. You can switch to synthetic at any time, even during break-in. However, during the break-in process your oil will become contaminated with metals and you won't be able to take advantage of the extended drain intervals synthetics provide, but it's other benefits still apply.
2. True, the risk of a higher mileage engine developing leaks, for exactly the reason mentioned, increases, but exactly what constitutes high mileaage is very subjective. What number can you put on it?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by zgrm100
thanks a lot guys u r the best. Well unfortunately i already did my oil change at the shop, and the guy actually let me watch, so now i know how to change it myself! well some what im sure ill still be asking u guys a lot of questions. But here is one for now. He put in 10W30 Mobile in my car. is that bad? Also he put in 4 bottles, and a lil more from a fifth, he said its enough, he didnt even check the lever to see if it is he said its not always accurate. So is 4 bottles and a lil more enough? He also charged me $20, and synthetic he said would be $47. Some feedback please guys.
thanks a lot guys u r the best. Well unfortunately i already did my oil change at the shop, and the guy actually let me watch, so now i know how to change it myself! well some what im sure ill still be asking u guys a lot of questions. But here is one for now. He put in 10W30 Mobile in my car. is that bad? Also he put in 4 bottles, and a lil more from a fifth, he said its enough, he didnt even check the lever to see if it is he said its not always accurate. So is 4 bottles and a lil more enough? He also charged me $20, and synthetic he said would be $47. Some feedback please guys.
Your car will be okay on 10W-30, its just not ideal for the cooler temperatures in NY right now. It will take longer to warm up and you should be nice to it longer than normer before you start driving it hard.
$20 is an average price for a dino oil change and so is $47 for the synthetic, so I wouldn't say you got screwed. For reference though, for $30 you can get a high quality synthetic oil and filter and change it yourself. With the extended drain intervals you can use with synthetic as well as the superior benefits, you will save money in the long run and have the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right because you did it.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by iwannabmw
For reference though, for $30 you can get a high quality synthetic oil and filter and change it yourself. With the extended drain intervals you can use with synthetic as well as the superior benefits, you will save money in the long run and have the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right because you did it.
For reference though, for $30 you can get a high quality synthetic oil and filter and change it yourself. With the extended drain intervals you can use with synthetic as well as the superior benefits, you will save money in the long run and have the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right because you did it.
For the Maxima, just jack her up, put a plastic oil collector under the oil pan, undo the drain plug, and let the oil drain out. When that's good and done, reach around remove the oil filter that's hidden behind the splash guard behind the passenger-side front wheel. After that, just replace with a new Nissan filter (remember to lube the rubber seal and don't screw it in too tightly), and use whatever motor oil you see fit. It's a 15 to 60 minute job depending on how long you wish to wait for the motor oil to drain.
It does save money in the long run, and it's good to know that you did it by yourself instead of by some lube guy who couldn't care less about your car.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by KennyLau
I agree. I've always changed the oil for both my Maxima and Civic, and for both cars it's pretty easy.
For the Maxima, just jack her up, put a plastic oil collector under the oil pan, undo the drain plug, and let the oil drain out. When that's good and done, reach around remove the oil filter that's hidden behind the splash guard behind the passenger-side front wheel. After that, just replace with a new Nissan filter (remember to lube the rubber seal and don't screw it in too tightly), and use whatever motor oil you see fit. It's a 15 to 60 minute job depending on how long you wish to wait for the motor oil to drain.
It does save money in the long run, and it's good to know that you did it by yourself instead of by some lube guy who couldn't care less about your car.
I agree. I've always changed the oil for both my Maxima and Civic, and for both cars it's pretty easy.
For the Maxima, just jack her up, put a plastic oil collector under the oil pan, undo the drain plug, and let the oil drain out. When that's good and done, reach around remove the oil filter that's hidden behind the splash guard behind the passenger-side front wheel. After that, just replace with a new Nissan filter (remember to lube the rubber seal and don't screw it in too tightly), and use whatever motor oil you see fit. It's a 15 to 60 minute job depending on how long you wish to wait for the motor oil to drain.
It does save money in the long run, and it's good to know that you did it by yourself instead of by some lube guy who couldn't care less about your car.
Oil Change 101
Have a little faith in yourself, brother!
I have no pics, but get your Max in the air and orient yourself with the underside of your car...Oil Filter should be pretty easy...liiks like a Coke can sideways on your engine...oil drain plug is on the oil pan at one of the lowest points on your engine in a place where a bolt does not appear to be necessary for holding anything together...
Get a drain pan from your local chain auto parts store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts)...you can bring your used oil back there and they'll take care of it for you. Advance Auto Parts near me lets us car guys just walk back to the used oil receptacle and dump it ourselves...talk about trust!
Heck...if the day is clow, one of the clerks might let you change it in their parking lot and they'll give you some pointers!
I have no pics, but get your Max in the air and orient yourself with the underside of your car...Oil Filter should be pretty easy...liiks like a Coke can sideways on your engine...oil drain plug is on the oil pan at one of the lowest points on your engine in a place where a bolt does not appear to be necessary for holding anything together...Get a drain pan from your local chain auto parts store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts)...you can bring your used oil back there and they'll take care of it for you. Advance Auto Parts near me lets us car guys just walk back to the used oil receptacle and dump it ourselves...talk about trust!
Heck...if the day is clow, one of the clerks might let you change it in their parking lot and they'll give you some pointers!
Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by iwannabmw
It truly amazes me how little dealers actually know, yet they charge so much for their supposed expertise.
1. You can switch to synthetic at any time, even during break-in. However, during the break-in process your oil will become contaminated with metals and you won't be able to take advantage of the extended drain intervals synthetics provide, but it's other benefits still apply.
2. True, the risk of a higher mileage engine developing leaks, for exactly the reason mentioned, increases, but exactly what constitutes high mileaage is very subjective. What number can you put on it?
It truly amazes me how little dealers actually know, yet they charge so much for their supposed expertise.
1. You can switch to synthetic at any time, even during break-in. However, during the break-in process your oil will become contaminated with metals and you won't be able to take advantage of the extended drain intervals synthetics provide, but it's other benefits still apply.
2. True, the risk of a higher mileage engine developing leaks, for exactly the reason mentioned, increases, but exactly what constitutes high mileaage is very subjective. What number can you put on it?
like the books says
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by KennyLau
I agree. I've always changed the oil for both my Maxima and Civic, and for both cars it's pretty easy.
For the Maxima, just jack her up, put a plastic oil collector under the oil pan, undo the drain plug, and let the oil drain out. When that's good and done, reach around remove the oil filter that's hidden behind the splash guard behind the passenger-side front wheel. After that, just replace with a new Nissan filter (remember to lube the rubber seal and don't screw it in too tightly), and use whatever motor oil you see fit. It's a 15 to 60 minute job depending on how long you wish to wait for the motor oil to drain.
It does save money in the long run, and it's good to know that you did it by yourself instead of by some lube guy who couldn't care less about your car.
I agree. I've always changed the oil for both my Maxima and Civic, and for both cars it's pretty easy.
For the Maxima, just jack her up, put a plastic oil collector under the oil pan, undo the drain plug, and let the oil drain out. When that's good and done, reach around remove the oil filter that's hidden behind the splash guard behind the passenger-side front wheel. After that, just replace with a new Nissan filter (remember to lube the rubber seal and don't screw it in too tightly), and use whatever motor oil you see fit. It's a 15 to 60 minute job depending on how long you wish to wait for the motor oil to drain.
It does save money in the long run, and it's good to know that you did it by yourself instead of by some lube guy who couldn't care less about your car.
Have not done the maxima yet
Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by JJL
How long can you leave it in. pretty priceie to change it ever 3 months
like the books says
How long can you leave it in. pretty priceie to change it ever 3 months
like the books says
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by JJL
Question doesn't that splash guard get in the way when you remove the filter like oil gets all over it then starts to drip on the floor.
Have not done the maxima yet
Question doesn't that splash guard get in the way when you remove the filter like oil gets all over it then starts to drip on the floor.
Have not done the maxima yet
As for tips:
--Be sure to check the level of the oil as you fill (be sure not to overfill) Then check it again the next day after some driving.
--Coat the gasket of the new oil filter with oil to get a good seal
--Make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off when you remove the filter
--Remeber to tighten the drain plug and put back the oil cap
-- be sure not to leave any tools under the hood or under your car
--Use a funnel when filling the oil
good luck!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by JJL
Question doesn't that splash guard get in the way when you remove the filter like oil gets all over it then starts to drip on the floor.
Have not done the maxima yet
Question doesn't that splash guard get in the way when you remove the filter like oil gets all over it then starts to drip on the floor.
Have not done the maxima yet
Parts You'll Need:
A) Big, plastic oil drain pan from your local auto parts store (I got a 15-quart one). Get one where everything can close up, so you can move it around with no worries about splashes or leaks.
B) Get the correct filter and oil of your choice.
C) An oil filter wrench (the filter for the Maxima is actually pretty small, so be careful on what size tool you get).
D) 14mm socket wrench (for the oil pan drain plug).
E) Disposable latex gloves.
This Is What I Do:
1) Wait for the engine to cool off (unless you want to risk hot oil rolling down your arm).
2) Lift the front of your Maxima up. Get a good clearance so that the front tires are off the ground. (Be safe, and don't leave your car on jacks. Use jack stands or car ramps to keep the car up.) Open the hood and remove the oil cap.
3) Put on the gloves. There's nothing worse than any kind of dirt or oil from a car, so the less you get on you the cleaner you'll be.
4) Get under the car with the socket wrench and find the oil pan. It is right next to the front passenger-side splash guard. Loosen the plug just a bit, so that no oil comes out yet. Get the oil drain pan and get it under the plug. Completely unscrew the plug and let the oil drain out. Be sure the plug and its washer are together.
5) After the oil stops dripping out, clean the hole area, the plug, and the washer. Screw the plug back into place tightly, but don't over do it.
6) Now the fun part...reach into the splash guard and find the oil filter. Position the oil drain pan underneath the filter as best you can. Use the filter wrench to remove the filter. Some oil will leak out, but it should be little enough to clean up with a rag or paper towels.
7) Take the new filter and use some fresh oil to coat the rubber seal of the filter. Screw in the new filter and tighten it according to the directions in your user's manual. Again, don't over do it.
8) Fill up on the fresh oil. Check your dip stick. Put the oil cap back on.
9) Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check underneath the car for oil leaks.
10) Assuming all went well, lower the car down, clean up your work area, and you're off!
Some gas station car shops or auto parts stores will take the old oil in for little or no cost. Just take your oil drain pan there to dispose of your used motor oil.
Again, this should not be more than a 15 to 60 minute job (after the engine cools) depending on how long you wish to wait for the used oil to drain out. Just be patient, and you'll end up with very little or no mess at all.
Have fun. It's easy!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by KennyLau
Very little oil leaks out of the filter when I remove the filter with the splash guard still on. Before my first Maxima old change, some of the guys here suggested that I take the splash guard off. I tried that, but one of those screws holding the guard in wouldn't come off, so I said forget it and did it with the guard on.
Parts You'll Need:
A) Big, plastic oil drain pan from your local auto parts store (I got a 15-quart one). Get one where everything can close up, so you can move it around with no worries about splashes or leaks.
B) Get the correct filter and oil of your choice.
C) An oil filter wrench (the filter for the Maxima is actually pretty small, so be careful on what size tool you get).
D) 14mm socket wrench (for the oil pan drain plug).
E) Disposable latex gloves.
allright thanks guyz. Im def gonna try to do it myself next. How much do the oil filter wrenches go for? and the pans? Also the only place to get a Nissan filter is from the dealer right?
This Is What I Do:
1) Wait for the engine to cool off (unless you want to risk hot oil rolling down your arm).
2) Lift the front of your Maxima up. Get a good clearance so that the front tires are off the ground. (Be safe, and don't leave your car on jacks. Use jack stands or car ramps to keep the car up.) Open the hood and remove the oil cap.
3) Put on the gloves. There's nothing worse than any kind of dirt or oil from a car, so the less you get on you the cleaner you'll be.
4) Get under the car with the socket wrench and find the oil pan. It is right next to the front passenger-side splash guard. Loosen the plug just a bit, so that no oil comes out yet. Get the oil drain pan and get it under the plug. Completely unscrew the plug and let the oil drain out. Be sure the plug and its washer are together.
5) After the oil stops dripping out, clean the hole area, the plug, and the washer. Screw the plug back into place tightly, but don't over do it.
6) Now the fun part...reach into the splash guard and find the oil filter. Position the oil drain pan underneath the filter as best you can. Use the filter wrench to remove the filter. Some oil will leak out, but it should be little enough to clean up with a rag or paper towels.
7) Take the new filter and use some fresh oil to coat the rubber seal of the filter. Screw in the new filter and tighten it according to the directions in your user's manual. Again, don't over do it.
8) Fill up on the fresh oil. Check your dip stick. Put the oil cap back on.
9) Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check underneath the car for oil leaks.
10) Assuming all went well, lower the car down, clean up your work area, and you're off!
Some gas station car shops or auto parts stores will take the old oil in for little or no cost. Just take your oil drain pan there to dispose of your used motor oil.
Again, this should not be more than a 15 to 60 minute job (after the engine cools) depending on how long you wish to wait for the used oil to drain out. Just be patient, and you'll end up with very little or no mess at all.
Have fun. It's easy!
Very little oil leaks out of the filter when I remove the filter with the splash guard still on. Before my first Maxima old change, some of the guys here suggested that I take the splash guard off. I tried that, but one of those screws holding the guard in wouldn't come off, so I said forget it and did it with the guard on.
Parts You'll Need:
A) Big, plastic oil drain pan from your local auto parts store (I got a 15-quart one). Get one where everything can close up, so you can move it around with no worries about splashes or leaks.
B) Get the correct filter and oil of your choice.
C) An oil filter wrench (the filter for the Maxima is actually pretty small, so be careful on what size tool you get).
D) 14mm socket wrench (for the oil pan drain plug).
E) Disposable latex gloves.
allright thanks guyz. Im def gonna try to do it myself next. How much do the oil filter wrenches go for? and the pans? Also the only place to get a Nissan filter is from the dealer right?
This Is What I Do:
1) Wait for the engine to cool off (unless you want to risk hot oil rolling down your arm).
2) Lift the front of your Maxima up. Get a good clearance so that the front tires are off the ground. (Be safe, and don't leave your car on jacks. Use jack stands or car ramps to keep the car up.) Open the hood and remove the oil cap.
3) Put on the gloves. There's nothing worse than any kind of dirt or oil from a car, so the less you get on you the cleaner you'll be.
4) Get under the car with the socket wrench and find the oil pan. It is right next to the front passenger-side splash guard. Loosen the plug just a bit, so that no oil comes out yet. Get the oil drain pan and get it under the plug. Completely unscrew the plug and let the oil drain out. Be sure the plug and its washer are together.
5) After the oil stops dripping out, clean the hole area, the plug, and the washer. Screw the plug back into place tightly, but don't over do it.
6) Now the fun part...reach into the splash guard and find the oil filter. Position the oil drain pan underneath the filter as best you can. Use the filter wrench to remove the filter. Some oil will leak out, but it should be little enough to clean up with a rag or paper towels.
7) Take the new filter and use some fresh oil to coat the rubber seal of the filter. Screw in the new filter and tighten it according to the directions in your user's manual. Again, don't over do it.
8) Fill up on the fresh oil. Check your dip stick. Put the oil cap back on.
9) Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check underneath the car for oil leaks.
10) Assuming all went well, lower the car down, clean up your work area, and you're off!
Some gas station car shops or auto parts stores will take the old oil in for little or no cost. Just take your oil drain pan there to dispose of your used motor oil.
Again, this should not be more than a 15 to 60 minute job (after the engine cools) depending on how long you wish to wait for the used oil to drain out. Just be patient, and you'll end up with very little or no mess at all.
Have fun. It's easy!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Synthetic
Originally posted by zgrm100
i agree with you guys. I think my next oil change is def gonna be synthetic. I want to change it myself. But Im still a lil shaky. Can you guys write up a how to with pics or something if possible. Also can you list some Do's and dont's about changing oil so i dont mes it up or something. Also an important question. Where and wat kind of oil pan do i need to buy, And where do i get rid of the drained oil? Thanks again guyz ur da best.
i agree with you guys. I think my next oil change is def gonna be synthetic. I want to change it myself. But Im still a lil shaky. Can you guys write up a how to with pics or something if possible. Also can you list some Do's and dont's about changing oil so i dont mes it up or something. Also an important question. Where and wat kind of oil pan do i need to buy, And where do i get rid of the drained oil? Thanks again guyz ur da best.
Its for a Sentra, but the basic concept is the same as a Maxima. You'll want to use capacities out of your Maxima owners manual, not necessarily what the figures quoted on this web site.
Good luck
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