Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
03-03-2002, 03:22 PM
#41
cause, i'm going to trade the CAI for some springs (H&R). and i kinda like the quiet of the stock intake, i may just go ooglie.
and seriously, i didn't really feel a difference in the car with the cai in. i'm thinking the sound makes some people think it's a lot faster. but i did have fun revving at lights at civics.
and seriously, i didn't really feel a difference in the car with the cai in. i'm thinking the sound makes some people think it's a lot faster. but i did have fun revving at lights at civics.
03-03-2002, 04:15 PM
#42
Originally posted by victor
cause, i'm going to trade the CAI for some springs (H&R). and i kinda like the quiet of the stock intake, i may just go ooglie.
and seriously, i didn't really feel a difference in the car with the cai in. i'm thinking the sound makes some people think it's a lot faster. but i did have fun revving at lights at civics.
cause, i'm going to trade the CAI for some springs (H&R). and i kinda like the quiet of the stock intake, i may just go ooglie.
and seriously, i didn't really feel a difference in the car with the cai in. i'm thinking the sound makes some people think it's a lot faster. but i did have fun revving at lights at civics.
By the way I like your ride! Looks exactly like mine! Did you lower that thing? I am thinking about lowering mine, but I am not sure if I am going to go with H&R's or Eibach's
03-03-2002, 04:58 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 347
Re: Re: Re: Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I really really hope he did not do that.
Dixit
I really really hope he did not do that.
Dixit
03-03-2002, 05:03 PM
#44
Re: Re: Re: Re: Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
Originally posted by HondaKilLR
No. Hell No. I'm very mechanically oriented and disconnected the rubber heater hose looking thing right off the TB and sprayed it into the TB only! Still threw SERVICE ENGINE SOON. My car is not running like it used to. I feel it jacked with my A/Tranny for some reason. Like I said before I think it would be more beneficial around every 60-75k.
No. Hell No. I'm very mechanically oriented and disconnected the rubber heater hose looking thing right off the TB and sprayed it into the TB only! Still threw SERVICE ENGINE SOON. My car is not running like it used to. I feel it jacked with my A/Tranny for some reason. Like I said before I think it would be more beneficial around every 60-75k.
Dixit
03-03-2002, 05:10 PM
#45
Re: Re: Re: Re: Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
Originally posted by HondaKilLR
No. Hell No. I'm very mechanically oriented and disconnected the rubber heater hose looking thing right off the TB and sprayed it into the TB only! Still threw SERVICE ENGINE SOON. My car is not running like it used to. I feel it jacked with my A/Tranny for some reason. Like I said before I think it would be more beneficial around every 60-75k.
No. Hell No. I'm very mechanically oriented and disconnected the rubber heater hose looking thing right off the TB and sprayed it into the TB only! Still threw SERVICE ENGINE SOON. My car is not running like it used to. I feel it jacked with my A/Tranny for some reason. Like I said before I think it would be more beneficial around every 60-75k.
i know, mines came on one night out of the blue, one of my o2 sensors went bad, i went in early the next day and they changed it out for me.
03-03-2002, 05:12 PM
#46
Originally posted by maxman00
Isn't that the truth! I don't know if I am going crazy, but I almost feel that my k&N cone intake makes my car somewhat sluggish between 2k - 3k. Maybe it is the noise making the car sound faster than it is??? I does give the car a mean sound, but is it really worth it???
By the way I like your ride! Looks exactly like mine! Did you lower that thing? I am thinking about lowering mine, but I am not sure if I am going to go with H&R's or Eibach's
Isn't that the truth! I don't know if I am going crazy, but I almost feel that my k&N cone intake makes my car somewhat sluggish between 2k - 3k. Maybe it is the noise making the car sound faster than it is??? I does give the car a mean sound, but is it really worth it???
By the way I like your ride! Looks exactly like mine! Did you lower that thing? I am thinking about lowering mine, but I am not sure if I am going to go with H&R's or Eibach's
so you gonna take your intake out too? i'm going to go with the ooglie cai, to see how that works.
03-03-2002, 05:34 PM
#47
Originally posted by victor
so you gonna take your intake out too? i'm going to go with the ooglie cai, to see how that works.
so you gonna take your intake out too? i'm going to go with the ooglie cai, to see how that works.
03-05-2002, 10:38 AM
#48
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 253
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Yeah ran like crap for a couple mins while I emptied the can on it. It barely stays on without the airbox. Also if you open up the throttle, it wants to die, but spray that crap in there and it acts like fuel and revs like a ****, kept doing that while the can emptied and black smoke came out the exhaust (that might could have been supressed if I did not remove the stock y and the stock cat and replaced it with a cattman y and straight pipe with no cat, hhehee)
Runs like a charm now. No hesitation. Smooth accelaration.
Dixit
Yeah ran like crap for a couple mins while I emptied the can on it. It barely stays on without the airbox. Also if you open up the throttle, it wants to die, but spray that crap in there and it acts like fuel and revs like a ****, kept doing that while the can emptied and black smoke came out the exhaust (that might could have been supressed if I did not remove the stock y and the stock cat and replaced it with a cattman y and straight pipe with no cat, hhehee)
Runs like a charm now. No hesitation. Smooth accelaration.
Dixit
(1) it can set off a trouble code for any one of three O2 sensors, or the MAF (the cleaner changes the air / fuel ratio while it is burning)
(2) you can suck in any dirt by the open TB
(3) it does not clean better than the "tooth brush" method
Why risk it?
Use a white rag, and a tooth brush WITH THE ENGINE OFF, and you won't have any worries. (or trips to the dealer)
For full (and safe) instruction have a look at my site: www.motorvate.ca , click on Engine, and then Throttle Body Clean.
Happy cleaning!
03-05-2002, 10:44 AM
#49
Originally posted by MaxVQ
I think is is a very bad idea to spray the cleaner into the TB while the car is running, because:
(1) it can set off a trouble code for any one of three O2 sensors, or the MAF (the cleaner changes the air / fuel ratio while it is burning)
(2) you can suck in any dirt by the open TB
(3) it does not clean better than the "tooth brush" method
Why risk it?
Use a white rag, and a tooth brush WITH THE ENGINE OFF, and you won't have any worries. (or trips to the dealer)
For full (and safe) instruction have a look at my site: www.motorvate.ca , click on Engine, and then Throttle Body Clean.
Happy cleaning!
I think is is a very bad idea to spray the cleaner into the TB while the car is running, because:
(1) it can set off a trouble code for any one of three O2 sensors, or the MAF (the cleaner changes the air / fuel ratio while it is burning)
(2) you can suck in any dirt by the open TB
(3) it does not clean better than the "tooth brush" method
Why risk it?
Use a white rag, and a tooth brush WITH THE ENGINE OFF, and you won't have any worries. (or trips to the dealer)
For full (and safe) instruction have a look at my site: www.motorvate.ca , click on Engine, and then Throttle Body Clean.
Happy cleaning!
That is why i believe in open throttle body while cleaning. No harm no foul.
Dixit
03-05-2002, 12:18 PM
#50
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 253
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I dont agree with you, setting off codes is no big deal, reset the ECU and you cleared. As far as dirt is concered, we are talking about 4mins, and on top of that the car is not moving. I dont believe it will pick up dirt that is harmful. Secondly, a filter cant filter micron size pollens anyway. If anything using a rag leaves "strands" and other small particles that a FILTER CAN remove, and you just left them behind.
That is why i believe in open throttle body while cleaning. No harm no foul.
Dixit
I dont agree with you, setting off codes is no big deal, reset the ECU and you cleared. As far as dirt is concered, we are talking about 4mins, and on top of that the car is not moving. I dont believe it will pick up dirt that is harmful. Secondly, a filter cant filter micron size pollens anyway. If anything using a rag leaves "strands" and other small particles that a FILTER CAN remove, and you just left them behind.
That is why i believe in open throttle body while cleaning. No harm no foul.
Dixit
BTW have fun reseting your ECU.
03-05-2002, 12:27 PM
#51
Originally posted by MaxVQ
OK, to each his own.
BTW have fun reseting your ECU.
OK, to each his own.
BTW have fun reseting your ECU.
Dixit
03-05-2002, 03:26 PM
#53
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 253
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Um reseting the ECU? you think that is hard? Take off the negative cable for couple hours. Shiet, if you dont have a toolset to do that, then you dont need to be messing with the throttle body clean.
Dixit
Um reseting the ECU? you think that is hard? Take off the negative cable for couple hours. Shiet, if you dont have a toolset to do that, then you dont need to be messing with the throttle body clean.
Dixit
in my reply?Why are you talking about tools? If you are talking about what I can do with tools, have a look at my site www.motorvate.ca
Anyways, my point was: I think it is nessary to reset your ECU, and have the computer relearn the engine everytime you clean your TB. Plus how can you live without your car "for a couple hours"?
You see it different. That's cool.
BTW, have fun resetting your ECU
03-05-2002, 04:07 PM
#54
Originally posted by MaxVQ
Hmmm... I not trying to pick a fight. See the in my reply?
Why are you talking about tools? If you are talking about what I can do with tools, have a look at my site www.motorvate.ca
Anyways, my point was: I think it is nessary to reset your ECU, and have the computer relearn the engine everytime you clean your TB. Plus how can you live without your car "for a couple hours"?
You see it different. That's cool.
BTW, have fun resetting your ECU
Hmmm... I not trying to pick a fight. See the
in my reply?Why are you talking about tools? If you are talking about what I can do with tools, have a look at my site www.motorvate.ca
Anyways, my point was: I think it is nessary to reset your ECU, and have the computer relearn the engine everytime you clean your TB. Plus how can you live without your car "for a couple hours"?
You see it different. That's cool.
BTW, have fun resetting your ECU
.But yeah, aint no biggie to reset the ECU. I actually heard that it is good to let the computer RELEARN once in a while. Especially with a new clean TB.
Dixit
03-05-2002, 09:26 PM
#55
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 253
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
My bad, I aint mean to snap, I aint see the.
But yeah, aint no biggie to reset the ECU. I actually heard that it is good to let the computer RELEARN once in a while. Especially with a new clean TB.
Dixit
My bad, I aint mean to snap, I aint see the
.But yeah, aint no biggie to reset the ECU. I actually heard that it is good to let the computer RELEARN once in a while. Especially with a new clean TB.
Dixit
03-06-2002, 06:23 AM
#56
Originally posted by MaxVQ
Cool, let's go for beer. The GOOD Canadian stuff, not the other
Cool, let's go for beer. The GOOD Canadian stuff, not the other
Dixit
09-09-2003, 04:24 PM
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,279
i have a breather waiting to be put on i was trying to read up to see the pros and cons.... also make sure u get a breather with a big enough hole to fit on the valve side... i have 2 breathers both connecting ends r way to small.... guess i need to look for a bigger one!
will
will
09-09-2003, 04:59 PM
#59
This is how I do it: Car off, intake removed to the TB. I get a towel and hold it under the TB, then I get my TB cleaner and just spray all around the TB, letting all the excess run out and onto the towel. I keep spraying the stuff until no black comes out of the TB and onto the towel. After I let it dry and re-install the intake fire up the car. I get a little bit of black smoke just about every time I clean it. I use a whole can of throttle body cleaner each time I do this.
09-09-2003, 06:03 PM
#61
Originally Posted by VMaximus02
Beside accumulating sludges/deposits in the injectors, spraying cleaner into the throttle body could cause premature oxygen sensors failure.
"Accumulating sludges/deposits in the injectors"?
Explain how that can happen please.
09-09-2003, 06:12 PM
#62
I decided not to take any chances cleaning mine and losing pieces or spraying fluid inside. I cleaned up the spare one BriGuyMax gave me and swapped it in instead. That and tightening the throttle cable gave a very noticable improvment in throttle response.
Once removed I was shocked to find what 80Kmi looks like on the upper plenums. Got a spare clean plenum too for my next project
Once removed I was shocked to find what 80Kmi looks like on the upper plenums. Got a spare clean plenum too for my next project
09-09-2003, 11:01 PM
#63
Originally Posted by BEJAY1
I decided not to take any chances cleaning mine and losing pieces or spraying fluid inside. I cleaned up the spare one BriGuyMax gave me and swapped it in instead. That and tightening the throttle cable gave a very noticable improvment in throttle response.
Once removed I was shocked to find what 80Kmi looks like on the upper plenums. Got a spare clean plenum too for my next project
Once removed I was shocked to find what 80Kmi looks like on the upper plenums. Got a spare clean plenum too for my next project
09-10-2003, 04:03 AM
#64
Ice- FYI, I think you had the terms mixed up in an earlier post, since you were referring to the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV) the whole time, not the EGR system...
One disadvantage of disconnecting the PCV system (especially the valve cover->intake manifold connection) is that the idle may be a little weird (ECU may compensate though), due to the fact that the engine management expects a vacuum leak in the form of the PCV valve/hose connection... call it a "calibrated vacuum leak". Removing this "calibrated vacuum leak" probably won't cause too much trouble, but you never know...
If the crankcase vapors pressurize too much (they shouldn't if connected to a breather filter, but then again, they're not being sucked up like they normally are), those crankcase gases will mix with the oil and acidify it (cause the additives to wear out faster...). Also, higher crankcase pressures cause higher oil pressures, and the possibility of blowing oil seals if the seals are weak...
This alone, FYI, is a good reason to remove your PCV valve and clean it/check it. Too high of a crankcase pressure can promote leakage of oil. I recall on a previous car ('90 Mazda 626) changing the PCV valve made a noticeable decrease in oil smell (it'd leak a little oil after revving it up above 3K RPM or so--I could smell it. Then again, I do believe it had worn piston rings, so it had more crankcase blow-by gases inside than most...)
Anyway, this is all I've learned over the past couple years about the PCV system
One disadvantage of disconnecting the PCV system (especially the valve cover->intake manifold connection) is that the idle may be a little weird (ECU may compensate though), due to the fact that the engine management expects a vacuum leak in the form of the PCV valve/hose connection... call it a "calibrated vacuum leak". Removing this "calibrated vacuum leak" probably won't cause too much trouble, but you never know...
If the crankcase vapors pressurize too much (they shouldn't if connected to a breather filter, but then again, they're not being sucked up like they normally are), those crankcase gases will mix with the oil and acidify it (cause the additives to wear out faster...). Also, higher crankcase pressures cause higher oil pressures, and the possibility of blowing oil seals if the seals are weak...
This alone, FYI, is a good reason to remove your PCV valve and clean it/check it. Too high of a crankcase pressure can promote leakage of oil. I recall on a previous car ('90 Mazda 626) changing the PCV valve made a noticeable decrease in oil smell (it'd leak a little oil after revving it up above 3K RPM or so--I could smell it. Then again, I do believe it had worn piston rings, so it had more crankcase blow-by gases inside than most...)
Anyway, this is all I've learned over the past couple years about the PCV system
09-10-2003, 05:43 AM
#65
Originally Posted by Menacer
When you swapped out the TBs did you use a new gasket or use the same one? I was just curious if I was to do the same, would I need a new tb gasket? Is the one on the 4th gen maximas a metal gasket?
09-10-2003, 06:50 AM
#66
I got Fuel injector service done at 15K by my oil change garage and he said the throtle body was mad dirty- It ran considerably better after about
1/2 hour of black smoke- gotta keep up on this
every 12-15K intervalas specially w/ intake
1/2 hour of black smoke- gotta keep up on this
every 12-15K intervalas specially w/ intake
09-10-2003, 09:37 AM
#68
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 485
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I'm NOT trying to flame Dixit or anyone, but I have to question if this is a good idea.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
09-10-2003, 09:49 AM
#69
Originally Posted by spirilis
Huh... makes me wanna clean my TB...
How much does fuel injection service usually cost from a local mechanic?
How much does fuel injection service usually cost from a local mechanic?
n shyt in there)
It will prolong the life of your car- there are some people that ignore this simple maintenance and have clogged injectors by 60K - those gas treatments wont work then-
09-10-2003, 01:58 PM
#71
Damn these old threads are creaping back to like like the GrimReeper.
Well I also did this again last night, but this time just cleaned it while it was off cause I cant turn the car on at the moment since I dont have the Oil lines capped off for the turbo, or for better point, no oil in the engine since the oil pan was dropped to get re-done. But man did I want to start it up, but then again no exhaust manifold, wouldnt be a smart thing to do, I will just wait to spray that stuff in there while the car is on.
But man there was some crap in there..... Making me thing I want to just remove the whole TB and clean it manually. But dont know how much is involved on that and is there set screws that need to be re-set like where the idle should be and all that fun stuff like on older cars. If its a 30min job to remove it and get it back on I will do it tonight.
Dixit
Well I also did this again last night, but this time just cleaned it while it was off cause I cant turn the car on at the moment since I dont have the Oil lines capped off for the turbo, or for better point, no oil in the engine since the oil pan was dropped to get re-done. But man did I want to start it up, but then again no exhaust manifold, wouldnt be a smart thing to do, I will just wait to spray that stuff in there while the car is on.
But man there was some crap in there..... Making me thing I want to just remove the whole TB and clean it manually. But dont know how much is involved on that and is there set screws that need to be re-set like where the idle should be and all that fun stuff like on older cars. If its a 30min job to remove it and get it back on I will do it tonight.
Dixit
09-10-2003, 07:27 PM
#72
Originally Posted by spirilis
Ice- FYI, I think you had the terms mixed up in an earlier post, since you were referring to the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV) the whole time, not the EGR system...
One disadvantage of disconnecting the PCV system (especially the valve cover->intake manifold connection) is that the idle may be a little weird (ECU may compensate though), due to the fact that the engine management expects a vacuum leak in the form of the PCV valve/hose connection... call it a "calibrated vacuum leak". Removing this "calibrated vacuum leak" probably won't cause too much trouble, but you never know...
If the crankcase vapors pressurize too much (they shouldn't if connected to a breather filter, but then again, they're not being sucked up like they normally are), those crankcase gases will mix with the oil and acidify it (cause the additives to wear out faster...). Also, higher crankcase pressures cause higher oil pressures, and the possibility of blowing oil seals if the seals are weak...
This alone, FYI, is a good reason to remove your PCV valve and clean it/check it. Too high of a crankcase pressure can promote leakage of oil. I recall on a previous car ('90 Mazda 626) changing the PCV valve made a noticeable decrease in oil smell (it'd leak a little oil after revving it up above 3K RPM or so--I could smell it. Then again, I do believe it had worn piston rings, so it had more crankcase blow-by gases inside than most...)
Anyway, this is all I've learned over the past couple years about the PCV system
One disadvantage of disconnecting the PCV system (especially the valve cover->intake manifold connection) is that the idle may be a little weird (ECU may compensate though), due to the fact that the engine management expects a vacuum leak in the form of the PCV valve/hose connection... call it a "calibrated vacuum leak". Removing this "calibrated vacuum leak" probably won't cause too much trouble, but you never know...
If the crankcase vapors pressurize too much (they shouldn't if connected to a breather filter, but then again, they're not being sucked up like they normally are), those crankcase gases will mix with the oil and acidify it (cause the additives to wear out faster...). Also, higher crankcase pressures cause higher oil pressures, and the possibility of blowing oil seals if the seals are weak...
This alone, FYI, is a good reason to remove your PCV valve and clean it/check it. Too high of a crankcase pressure can promote leakage of oil. I recall on a previous car ('90 Mazda 626) changing the PCV valve made a noticeable decrease in oil smell (it'd leak a little oil after revving it up above 3K RPM or so--I could smell it. Then again, I do believe it had worn piston rings, so it had more crankcase blow-by gases inside than most...)
Anyway, this is all I've learned over the past couple years about the PCV system
Sorry had too.
Man it hurts just trying to remember what the hell I was
about over a year ago.Anyways, I said/meant PCV and it sounds like you agree?
Per ESM:
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
DESCRIPTION
NFEC0021
This system returns blow-by gas to the intake manifold.
The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is provided to conduct
crankcase blow-by gas to the intake manifold.
During partial throttle operation of the engine, the intake manifold
sucks the blow-by gas through the PCV valve.
Normally, the capacity of the valve is sufficient to handle any
blow-by and a small amount of ventilating air.
The ventilating air is then drawn from the air inlet tubes into the
crankcase. In this process the air passes through the hose connecting
air inlet tubes to rocker cover.
Under full-throttle condition, the manifold vacuum is insufficient to
draw the blow-by flow through the valve. The flow goes through the
hose connection in the reverse direction.
On vehicles with an excessively high blow-by, the valve does not
meet the requirement. This is because some of the flow will go
through the hose connection to the air inlet tubes under all
conditions.
09-10-2003, 07:33 PM
#73
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Instead of removing the piece of the intake tract before the TB to spray the TB-cleaner in, you can just remove the crankcase breather tube from the intake tract and spray it in there while the engine is running. PLEASE do NOT spray TB-cleaner into the crankcase side, just the intake tract side. It should be EASIER to keep the car running, since the MAF will still be reading air flow.
09-10-2003, 07:47 PM
#74
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Newer TB cleaners contain no alcohol and CLAIM to be O2 and cat safe.
"Accumulating sludges/deposits in the injectors"? Explain how that can happen please.
"Accumulating sludges/deposits in the injectors"?
Explain how that can happen please.I was referring to the sludges/deposits from cleaning of the throttle body
may get stuck ON the injectors which could clogged/effected the spraying pattern? I have no information to back my statement since my original thoughts were merely a speculaltion.
09-11-2003, 03:49 PM
#75
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 34
I decided to give cleaning the thotttle body a try. I run a firstone store so i had my lead tech remove the tube and spray throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while i kept the car running it wasen't too hard the only problem was it set a code for maf sensor. but it seemed to run better. i have 30k on a 2k2 auto the product i use is by wynns.
09-14-2003, 01:29 PM
#77
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
HELP, cleaned Throttle Body and SES is on
I read Dixit's comments and I cleaned my throttle body. Now the engine idles at 1,000 rpm (instead of 750) and the Service Engine Soon light is on. I will disconnect my battery to reset the computer. Does anybody have any experience with this high idle and SES light? I double checked my cleaning job and very carefully wiped the edge of the butterfly valve just to make sure something wasn't restricting it from closing.
09-14-2003, 02:09 PM
#78
Did you start the car without the MAF plug into the MAF filter? Or did you just move it aside and start it? Cause if you unplugged it while you were cleaning it and started the car without it plugged in, that will throw the SES light for that MAF sensor.
Dixit
Dixit
09-14-2003, 03:59 PM
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 118
I thought this was an interesting thread to throw a couple comments on, even though I'm a 4th gen guy.
1) Obviously there's a difference of opinion of whether or not to spray throttle body cleaner into a running engine or not. And, as mentioned by one of the above posters, this extends to professional service mechanics too. Being from the old school, I know that a lot of guys used to use Seafoam engine cleaner to clean deposits off of engine internals like manifolds and intake valve faces. There are specific directions for adding it while the engine is running. Goes something like this: add the Seafoam slowly for about 30sec while engine is running,then add a large amount so that the engine stalls, then restart engine. I've done this before and large clouds of smoke come out of the tailpipe while running and after the restart. An automotive fixit column writer for our local paper, would go so far as to kill the engine with the final dose of Seafoam and leave the car to sit overnight to let the stuff soak in before restarting. Seafoam is less volatile than throttle body cleaner and might not totally evaporate overnight, so maybe there's something to this. Personally I'd be a bit nervous doing this with a modern fuel injected vehicle, although I believe the product claims to be safe for converters and 02 sensors.
2) Cleaned my throttle body last weekend. Toothbrush and rag method, with engine off. Although it helped some, I don't think the performance improvements were as great as when I completely disassembled and cleaned the IACV assembly. Lotta blow by residue in these components. I noticed that the car went through the high idle to low idle steps much more cleanly on cold starts,started faster, as well as more power off idle. IACV should be similar for gen 5 cars. Disclaimer: I have 121k on my 98 and you guys probably have a lot less miles and built up crap on your TB's, so results may vary.
1) Obviously there's a difference of opinion of whether or not to spray throttle body cleaner into a running engine or not. And, as mentioned by one of the above posters, this extends to professional service mechanics too. Being from the old school, I know that a lot of guys used to use Seafoam engine cleaner to clean deposits off of engine internals like manifolds and intake valve faces. There are specific directions for adding it while the engine is running. Goes something like this: add the Seafoam slowly for about 30sec while engine is running,then add a large amount so that the engine stalls, then restart engine. I've done this before and large clouds of smoke come out of the tailpipe while running and after the restart. An automotive fixit column writer for our local paper, would go so far as to kill the engine with the final dose of Seafoam and leave the car to sit overnight to let the stuff soak in before restarting. Seafoam is less volatile than throttle body cleaner and might not totally evaporate overnight, so maybe there's something to this. Personally I'd be a bit nervous doing this with a modern fuel injected vehicle, although I believe the product claims to be safe for converters and 02 sensors.
2) Cleaned my throttle body last weekend. Toothbrush and rag method, with engine off. Although it helped some, I don't think the performance improvements were as great as when I completely disassembled and cleaned the IACV assembly. Lotta blow by residue in these components. I noticed that the car went through the high idle to low idle steps much more cleanly on cold starts,started faster, as well as more power off idle. IACV should be similar for gen 5 cars. Disclaimer: I have 121k on my 98 and you guys probably have a lot less miles and built up crap on your TB's, so results may vary.
09-14-2003, 08:21 PM
#80
I had a "fuel induction cleaning" service done to my car at some oil change/service station. It cost like $80. They spray some cleaner (probably throttle body cleaner) into the intake tract (not sure what parts) let it soak, then use a high power vacuum to suck it out.
I know they take the intake apart because the idiots didnt completely put it back together correctly.
They did clean it thoroughly however. I took the tube off in front of the throttle body to look at it, and it looked like brand new. No oils, residues, nothing.
As for performance? I dont know because my MAF was screwed up and after I replaced it, that was when all my power came back.
I know they take the intake apart because the idiots didnt completely put it back together correctly.
They did clean it thoroughly however. I took the tube off in front of the throttle body to look at it, and it looked like brand new. No oils, residues, nothing.
As for performance? I dont know because my MAF was screwed up and after I replaced it, that was when all my power came back.