freda

Anybody have the wiring diagram for the Bose audio??? Could you please post or PM me.

I want to replace the speakers and would like to gather as much info as possible before I dive in. The wiring diagram would be a good start, as well as the answer to the following questions.

Answers I'm looking for.....
1..What is the impeadance of the current speakers including the rear-deck rattler? Or is that monotone rear-deck noisemaker self powered? This might not be an issue if I replace the amp, but let's not take that for granted right now.
2..What are the sizes of all the speakers?
3..Are the tweeters in the pillars connected to the front door speakers...can I buy a component set and place the tweeter in the pillar and the woofer/midrange and x-over in the door without fishing wires?
4..Anything special about the amp under the rear deck? What's the output ratings? What's it take to replace that with something real?

In summary, I want to replace almost everything BUT the HU and wiring harness and do so without cutting and hacking. I would really enjoy hearing from people who have done this. Please include information about what components you used and any tips & tricks needed to install.

Yes - I did a search and did not find much concise information especially for 5th gen's. Just looking for the facts.


Many thanks in advance
FredA

2kse & 2k1se (2k1se if getting the new tunes)

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Alright NEWBIE. Here are the answers.

1. WHO cares if you plan on replacing the Amp and Speakers. You should not be running aftermarket speakers with the Bose AMP or vice versa. Not recommended, I aint saying it wont work, but question is how long you think it will work?
2. Front and Rears are 6 3/4" The tweeter is about 1"
3. Yeah the tweeters are in the Apillar. Just pull off the Apiller plastic and you will see it right there. And yes they actually get powered off the same wire that powers the fronts. They use a passive crossover on the back of the tweeter. Yes you can place the Aftermarket speakers and use the factor wires, although not recommended if you want to hear the best sound out of your new speakers, the factory wiring is always garbage. But it will work if you dont care.
4. The amp under the rear deck powers the 6 speakers inside (front tweeters/front/rear). Again who cares for the output ratings, hope you dont plan on using the BOSE amp to power aftermarket speakers. If you do, you are cheap and looking for trouble in the future. What does it take to replace it with something real? Money, Time and Knowledge.

And no I am not being mean. Just answering your questions the best I can.

Dixit

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

And no I am not being mean. Just answering your questions the best I can.

Dixit [/B][/QUOTE]

He's right. Couldn't have said it better

freda

OK Dixit - Thanks for the info - just wish it came with a little less attitude - you can tell I'm a newbie, and I guess you just showed us why you "Need non-Maxima Friends"...

I said I was collecting information before I started.

I didn't figure on using the Bose amp in the long run - just wanted the information to impeadance/power infomation so I could judge if I could stage the install (expense).

I wanted to try to use the wiring harness since (unlike you orgy people who need friends) I don't have the time or desire to tear my car apart - I bought a new car because I'm tired of working on [old] cars!

So thanks again for the info - hopefully you can understand that there were real reasons behind my questions. I thought this org was to help spread the "word" about Max's - why not try to do that with a positive tone. We newbies don't know everything about our Max's yet - help us learn without pushing us away!

I'd still like to get my hands on a wiring diagram if anybody has it.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Calm down there big guy, like I said, just answered the question, sorry if attitude came with it.

Tell me exactly what diagrams you need and I will get them for you. But I still dont see why you need them. I understand wanting to stage the install, but the BOSE system is a very UNCONVENTIAL system and does not work well with aftermarket components. I seen some people do it but they are killing the amp.

Dixit

freda

OK - I'm calm now....

I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the AMP. I want to know what wire is what on the thing so that when I go to replace it, I don't have to trace out every wire.

Also - I realize that using the stock wiring is not the best choice - how difficult is it to get new wires to the door speakers? How about real power (like 4-gauge) from the Battery? How much of the interior needs to be removed to route these wires? Any recommended routes for the power?

Anybody have a recommended Subwoofer that fits in the hole where the Bose is? I'd like to replace that unit but not cut holes...maybe even use the stock Bose deck trim. Anybody done this?

02MaXiMa_GLE

This might help, but it's for 2k1... it doesn't specify Bose/non. Though I think the wires are originating from the head unit (non-Bose setup)

http://www.carstereoproducts.com/wir...n%20maxima.htm

I've tried to stick my Pioneer TS-W203C in there (it's designed 4 enclosures though, not free-air) and it wouldn't fit! It will with some trimwork to the deck trim, though. I was just testing to see if I could get a good fit. I'm looking at the Kenwwod KFC-W2003 8" and I don't know if it will drop-in without cutting. Maybe someone else can help u with an exact fit sub. I haven't heard the Kenwwod in action, but at 91db it should be way louder than the Bose at the same power! if you're sticking in a new sub, make sure it's designed for Free-Air operation. An add-on amp would be a big plus, cause u don't have to worry about the actual Ohms of your speakers/subs.

Here's what I would do in your case - check out this website:

http://www.discountave.net/kfcw2003.html

Call & ask about the cut-out dimensions of the Kenwood. Then decide if u want to buy it or not. Of course u have to measure the cutout of your Bose deck trim before u call. But if you're going to modify the trim, then might as well cut an MDF piece & install that instead. The stock deck trim is WEAK!!!

I just got my Multimeter working again & will test the actual Ohm-age of all Bose Speakers & post it. There seem to be so many different opinions on the actual Ohms of the speakers & whether the amp can handle a 4-Ohm load.

Hope this helps,
G

2K BLACK MAX SE

Bose got smart they switched their watts to 6 ohm . House is 8 and cars are normally 4 so you got BOSE cancer cut it all out and start from scratch other wise you will get big problems.

02MaXiMa_GLE

I was able to verify that the Bose sub runs at approx 1-ohm (using my multimeter). The meter actually read 0.6ohms, but I figure it's probably going to be a one-ohmer, if u factor in the %error.

I was not able to get an accurate reading of the front speakers. I pulled the harness off the Bose amp & tried to test, but got an open circuit... hmmmm... Maybe the wiring info that I used was not accurate: http://www.carstereoproducts.com/wi...an%20maxima.htm

I will post the wire colors that plug into the harness tomorrow. (not that it will really helps much, but who knows?)


Later,
G

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

If anyone is interested, let me know, I have a pin breakdown of each wire at the factory harness side of the BOSE headunit. Email me at dsuthar@comcast.net

Dixit