New Dyno Numbers :)
#1
New Dyno Numbers :)
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
#2
Re: New Dyno Numbers :)
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
#9
Thanks.
Before I forget to mention..... Jane and I were only pushing 9 psi. Looks like the Aquamist decreased boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
We didn't unhook the Aquamist system to see how much it would've put down. Oh well.....
Su (the dyno guy) and I dialed in the air/fuel ratio so it looks flat now.
Before I forget to mention..... Jane and I were only pushing 9 psi. Looks like the Aquamist decreased boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
We didn't unhook the Aquamist system to see how much it would've put down. Oh well.....
Su (the dyno guy) and I dialed in the air/fuel ratio so it looks flat now.
#12
congrats on the dyno!!
a chicago shop (APG) told my brother not to use Aquamist (or related coolers) on his SC'd prelude. is it's function for engine/SC longevity, or is it just for denser air (intercooler.) how does it work???? thanks
i think we're all anxious for your track #'s!!!
a chicago shop (APG) told my brother not to use Aquamist (or related coolers) on his SC'd prelude. is it's function for engine/SC longevity, or is it just for denser air (intercooler.) how does it work???? thanks
i think we're all anxious for your track #'s!!!
#13
Re: New Dyno Numbers :)
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
#14
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Nice numbers Kev, time for ya to go to the track!
Nice numbers Kev, time for ya to go to the track!
Originally posted by 20thdriven
congrats on the dyno!!
a chicago shop (APG) told my brother not to use Aquamist (or related coolers) on his SC'd prelude. is it's function for engine/SC longevity, or is it just for denser air (intercooler.) how does it work???? thanks
i think we're all anxious for your track #'s!!!
congrats on the dyno!!
a chicago shop (APG) told my brother not to use Aquamist (or related coolers) on his SC'd prelude. is it's function for engine/SC longevity, or is it just for denser air (intercooler.) how does it work???? thanks
i think we're all anxious for your track #'s!!!
I don't know why the shop told him not to use water injection.
#17
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
When you get your WI installed, could you check the boost? Thanks.
When you get your WI installed, could you check the boost? Thanks.
I think the intercooling effect could be what is droping the boost preasure...
#18
Originally posted by SFMax20SE
Nice numbers Kev.... but ur just missing one thing.... some 1/4 mile numbers!!! Get that babe to the track my friend!!!
Nice numbers Kev.... but ur just missing one thing.... some 1/4 mile numbers!!! Get that babe to the track my friend!!!
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Shure, I should have it done tonight! So I will be testing it out in the next few days.
I think the intercooling effect could be what is droping the boost preasure...
Shure, I should have it done tonight! So I will be testing it out in the next few days.
I think the intercooling effect could be what is droping the boost preasure...
During the tuning session, we were wondering why boost pressure dropped... kept wondering until I was driving back home then I finally hit me that:
Aquamist = cools charged air = less temp, therefore less pressure!
#21
Doh!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Matthel's almost done fixing his car... track time should be pretty soon.
Cool, thanks. Did you get a nice water reservoir or are you going to use the washer fluid thingy?
During the tuning session, we were wondering why boost pressure dropped... kept wondering until I was driving back home then I finally hit me that:
Aquamist = cools charged air = less temp, therefore less pressure!
Matthel's almost done fixing his car... track time should be pretty soon.
Cool, thanks. Did you get a nice water reservoir or are you going to use the washer fluid thingy?
During the tuning session, we were wondering why boost pressure dropped... kept wondering until I was driving back home then I finally hit me that:
Aquamist = cools charged air = less temp, therefore less pressure!
I guess that's why an IC is best for 10+psi levels.
#22
Re: New Dyno Numbers :)
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
302.6 hp and 258.6 ft-lbs torque (STD) We did some major tuning, so horsepower and torque increased throughout the rpm's. HP and torque increased as much as 20 at one point.
The SAE corrected numbers were 288.9 hp and 246.9 ft-lbs torque. If you thought the first dyno graph was good... wait until you see this.
Edit...
The SC peaked at 9 psi, so it looks like the Aquamist dropped boost pressure by about 1-2 psi.
#23
Re: Doh!
Originally posted by Padsy 02 6sp
I've got Kev envy........
I've got Kev envy........
Originally posted by IceY2K1
So the question is, if you can keep enough water in the resevior, you can UP the boost by going to an even smaller pulley, right? However, if you run out of water, BOOM!
I guess that's why an IC is best for 10+psi levels.
So the question is, if you can keep enough water in the resevior, you can UP the boost by going to an even smaller pulley, right? However, if you run out of water, BOOM!
I guess that's why an IC is best for 10+psi levels.
I did some research before settling for the Aquamist kit. IC isn't as efficient as WI (about 65% vs. up to 120%). I'm actually a lot stronger at 9 psi (cooled) than at 11 psi.
Up the boost?
#24
Re: Re: Doh!
#26
Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
O no, you barely use any water at WOT. I can probably go about 3-4 gas fillups before being completely dry (but I refill the water after every fillup). Also, what the 5th gens have over the 4th gens is a washer fluid sensor. So if the water level does get too low, I will see the light. Without water, the car still should be alright because it was doing 11 psi without problems.
I did some research before settling for the Aquamist kit. IC isn't as efficient as WI (about 65% vs. up to 120%). I'm actually a lot stronger at 9 psi (cooled) than at 11 psi.
Up the boost?
O no, you barely use any water at WOT. I can probably go about 3-4 gas fillups before being completely dry (but I refill the water after every fillup). Also, what the 5th gens have over the 4th gens is a washer fluid sensor. So if the water level does get too low, I will see the light. Without water, the car still should be alright because it was doing 11 psi without problems.
I did some research before settling for the Aquamist kit. IC isn't as efficient as WI (about 65% vs. up to 120%). I'm actually a lot stronger at 9 psi (cooled) than at 11 psi.
Up the boost?
Hey using the windshield reservior sensor is a COOL trick!
If it was running at 11psi withOUT WI and no detonation, then 11psi with WI shouldn't be any different detonation wise, right? It's just whether or not your engine can handle it.
300+whp STD from an autoMAGIC is friggen AWESOME, but 300+whp SAE corrected withOUT a 3" Y/Exhaust is even better.
#27
Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Did Russ let you out of http://www.5thgenmaximas.com again?
O no, you barely use any water at WOT. I can probably go about 3-4 gas fillups before being completely dry (but I refill the water after every fillup). Also, what the 5th gens have over the 4th gens is a washer fluid sensor. So if the water level does get too low, I will see the light. Without water, the car still should be alright because it was doing 11 psi without problems.
I did some research before settling for the Aquamist kit. IC isn't as efficient as WI (about 65% vs. up to 120%). I'm actually a lot stronger at 9 psi (cooled) than at 11 psi.
Up the boost?
Did Russ let you out of http://www.5thgenmaximas.com again?
O no, you barely use any water at WOT. I can probably go about 3-4 gas fillups before being completely dry (but I refill the water after every fillup). Also, what the 5th gens have over the 4th gens is a washer fluid sensor. So if the water level does get too low, I will see the light. Without water, the car still should be alright because it was doing 11 psi without problems.
I did some research before settling for the Aquamist kit. IC isn't as efficient as WI (about 65% vs. up to 120%). I'm actually a lot stronger at 9 psi (cooled) than at 11 psi.
Up the boost?
#28
Re: Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by jhans114
Hey Kev have you tried to use the 50/50 method with the WI? My friend at Toyomoto said that he finds it more efficient if you use 50% distilled water and 50%alcohol so you dont drop octane. He said that it worked great on their Turbo IS300. I ordered my Aquamist system but its gonna be about another week before I get it. Give it a shot or at least look into it... Peace good luck!
Hey Kev have you tried to use the 50/50 method with the WI? My friend at Toyomoto said that he finds it more efficient if you use 50% distilled water and 50%alcohol so you dont drop octane. He said that it worked great on their Turbo IS300. I ordered my Aquamist system but its gonna be about another week before I get it. Give it a shot or at least look into it... Peace good luck!
#29
Re: Re: Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Kev this is a good idea for the 91oct gas you guys have in Cali. I got a gallon of denatured alcohol from Home Depot for $9.00. I plan on using 75/25 water/alcohol.
Kev this is a good idea for the 91oct gas you guys have in Cali. I got a gallon of denatured alcohol from Home Depot for $9.00. I plan on using 75/25 water/alcohol.
Kev, very impressive numbers. Is there a lot of torque steer? Ever tracked it?
I would seriously look into the alcohol injection... very very very neat stuff.
I think the only reason why water injection could be bad is if the jet malfunctions. that could reek all kinds of craziness.
I'm just waiting to see a Max with a FMIC or a water-to-water IC.
#30
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Oooooh, I didn't know the WI only comes on at WOT. I thought it was on all the time.
Hey using the windshield reservior sensor is a COOL trick!
If it was running at 11psi withOUT WI and no detonation, then 11psi with WI shouldn't be any different detonation wise, right? It's just whether or not your engine can handle it.
300+whp STD from an autoMAGIC is friggen AWESOME, but 300+whp SAE corrected withOUT a 3" Y/Exhaust is even better.
Oooooh, I didn't know the WI only comes on at WOT. I thought it was on all the time.
Hey using the windshield reservior sensor is a COOL trick!
If it was running at 11psi withOUT WI and no detonation, then 11psi with WI shouldn't be any different detonation wise, right? It's just whether or not your engine can handle it.
300+whp STD from an autoMAGIC is friggen AWESOME, but 300+whp SAE corrected withOUT a 3" Y/Exhaust is even better.
Originally posted by jhans114
Hey Kev have you tried to use the 50/50 method with the WI? My friend at Toyomoto said that he finds it more efficient if you use 50% distilled water and 50%alcohol so you dont drop octane. He said that it worked great on their Turbo IS300. I ordered my Aquamist system but its gonna be about another week before I get it. Give it a shot or at least look into it... Peace good luck!
Hey Kev have you tried to use the 50/50 method with the WI? My friend at Toyomoto said that he finds it more efficient if you use 50% distilled water and 50%alcohol so you dont drop octane. He said that it worked great on their Turbo IS300. I ordered my Aquamist system but its gonna be about another week before I get it. Give it a shot or at least look into it... Peace good luck!
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Kev this is a good idea for the 91oct gas you guys have in Cali. I got a gallon of denatured alcohol from Home Depot for $9.00. I plan on using 75/25 water/alcohol.
Kev this is a good idea for the 91oct gas you guys have in Cali. I got a gallon of denatured alcohol from Home Depot for $9.00. I plan on using 75/25 water/alcohol.
Originally posted by Driven EF9
A friend of mine with a 3KGT-VR4 has an alcohol injection kit. He runs some pretty high boost at times and doesn't experience any detonation.
Kev, very impressive numbers. Is there a lot of torque steer? Ever tracked it?
I would seriously look into the alcohol injection... very very very neat stuff.
I think the only reason why water injection could be bad is if the jet malfunctions. that could reek all kinds of craziness.
I'm just waiting to see a Max with a FMIC or a water-to-water IC.
A friend of mine with a 3KGT-VR4 has an alcohol injection kit. He runs some pretty high boost at times and doesn't experience any detonation.
Kev, very impressive numbers. Is there a lot of torque steer? Ever tracked it?
I would seriously look into the alcohol injection... very very very neat stuff.
I think the only reason why water injection could be bad is if the jet malfunctions. that could reek all kinds of craziness.
I'm just waiting to see a Max with a FMIC or a water-to-water IC.
If the jet malfunctions, the car would still work normally but without the cooling effect. I'll probably get their new ERL's water pressure detection gadget when it comes out.
Deac and max'n out have FMICs. i30krab has a water-to-water IC.
#31
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Yup, and we can adjust when it comes on (via boost pressure). 11 psi with WI should definitely prevent any detonation. Yes, as long as the tranny can handle it, the car should be fine.
Yup, and we can adjust when it comes on (via boost pressure). 11 psi with WI should definitely prevent any detonation. Yes, as long as the tranny can handle it, the car should be fine.
Also, alcohol is NOT a good idea for long term reliability. I've seen the damage/corrosion it causes first hand on my senior project, which was a mini-Formula style race car with a fuel injected F2 CBR600 motorcyle engine burning M85(85%gas, 15%methonal). That stuff QUICKLY destroys anything plastic or rubber and even degrades metal.
Water is also not the greatest either, unless you need to steam clean your combustion chamber once in awhile to remove deposits. Just my .02, but don't let me rain on your parade, I enjoy all the PIONEER work you guys do. I'm just trying to add a little caution, but hey it's your motor and you can always rebuild it with stronger internals.
#32
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Doh!
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Nice! Kev, are you running Redline tranny fluid? If not, it would be a SMART investment. That stuff is amazing!
Also, alcohol is NOT a good idea for long term reliability. I've seen the damage/corrosion it causes first hand on my senior project, which was a mini-Formula style race car with a fuel injected F2 CBR600 motorcyle engine burning M85(85%gas, 15%methonal). That stuff QUICKLY destroys anything plastic or rubber and even degrades metal.
Water is also not the greatest either, unless you need to steam clean your combustion chamber once in awhile to remove deposits. :-) Just my .02, but don't let me rain on your parade, I enjoy all the PIONEER work you guys do. I'm just trying to add a little caution, but hey it's your motor and you can always rebuild it with stronger internals.;-)
Nice! Kev, are you running Redline tranny fluid? If not, it would be a SMART investment. That stuff is amazing!
Also, alcohol is NOT a good idea for long term reliability. I've seen the damage/corrosion it causes first hand on my senior project, which was a mini-Formula style race car with a fuel injected F2 CBR600 motorcyle engine burning M85(85%gas, 15%methonal). That stuff QUICKLY destroys anything plastic or rubber and even degrades metal.
Water is also not the greatest either, unless you need to steam clean your combustion chamber once in awhile to remove deposits. :-) Just my .02, but don't let me rain on your parade, I enjoy all the PIONEER work you guys do. I'm just trying to add a little caution, but hey it's your motor and you can always rebuild it with stronger internals.;-)
Yes, I thought about the water thing in the engine... but since the chambers get so hot, all the water vapor gets evaporated or shot out throught the exhaust. Steam cleaning the engine is a benefit of WI because it will remove carbon build up! Hehehe
Thanks for the tip. Looks like I'll be doing some research on the long term effect of alcohol in the engine.
Stronger parts AND more boost?
#36
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Kev when are you gonna share the dyno plots?
Kev when are you gonna share the dyno plots?
Fine fine fine... I'll go grab it now.
#38
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Kev, I found a 2.5qt radiator overflow bottle from PepBoys for $10. I think it will work good! No I just need to wire the low wiper fluid sensor into the bottle
Kev, I found a 2.5qt radiator overflow bottle from PepBoys for $10. I think it will work good! No I just need to wire the low wiper fluid sensor into the bottle
Here is the dyno plot: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=105146
#39
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
When you get your WI installed, could you check the boost? Thanks.
When you get your WI installed, could you check the boost? Thanks.
#40
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Looks like I lost ~0.75lb's of boost. EGT's are still about the same, maybe a hair cooler. How are your EGT's looking? Are you going to get a smaller pulley now? 3.0' or 2.87? hmmmmmmm
Looks like I lost ~0.75lb's of boost. EGT's are still about the same, maybe a hair cooler. How are your EGT's looking? Are you going to get a smaller pulley now? 3.0' or 2.87? hmmmmmmm