5th gen upgraded FUEL PUMP... Walbro GSS342??
04-03-2002, 04:17 PM
#2
Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
04-03-2002, 08:00 PM
#3
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
YES it fits, just take off the spacer tabs, b/c it will fit too high otherwise.
you got mail
10-03-2002, 10:42 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 25
Is this the right pump:
http://www.proficientperformance.com...=WAL-GSS342-PP
model is: WAL-GSS342-PP
I am not sure what the "pp" refers too....
http://www.proficientperformance.com...=WAL-GSS342-PP
model is: WAL-GSS342-PP
I am not sure what the "pp" refers too....
10-03-2002, 11:28 AM
#6
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,275
fuel pump
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Y2KevSE
[B]Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
Still got the fuel pump brand new in the box! My mechanic could'nt figure out how to install it so I never did it! I also heard that it dosnt do much unless you have bigger injectors, bigger throttle body etc...
Deac
[B]Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
Still got the fuel pump brand new in the box! My mechanic could'nt figure out how to install it so I never did it! I also heard that it dosnt do much unless you have bigger injectors, bigger throttle body etc...
Deac
10-03-2002, 12:02 PM
#7
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
Adam (the other one) has it... Deac bought one but I'm not sure if it's on his car.
If you find out, please share the info. I would like to upgrade the fuel pump when I change out the fuel filter. Thanks.
10-03-2002, 12:53 PM
#10
Originally posted by SpicyTuna
pls post a url if possible I looked around and couldnt find....
pls post a url if possible I looked around and couldnt find....
Originally posted by Stikya
Aftermarket FP: Walbro GSS342 (High Pressure 255lph)
Why Needed?: If you want more than 65HP in nitrous, or do a major supercharger/turbo upgrade.
Price: It can be picked up for $95 shipped, look around on the net (i.e. ebay) for performance shops and e-mail them directly with an offer.
Performance Pontential: This pump will handle all of your upgrade needs pushing well over 100psi-enough for well over 400BHP.
Fittment Issues: This unit is the pump ONLY and will require the use of the stock pump housing and filter. It is nearly* a direct plug-in replacement for our stock pump.
*The pump has some small plastic spacer tabs on the top and bottom that need to be grinded off to fit inside our stock housing correclty. (Anyone with 2 minutes and a grinder can achieve this.)
You will also need get a new gas tank o-ring seal from your local Nissan dealer ($9).
Installation: (taken from Chunger's 4th gen. write-up)
PRELIMINARY STUFF :
WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!
·Remove the FUEL PUMP FUSE from the fuse box underneath the dash.
·Start the engine to use up the remaining fuel under pressure in the fuel line. Wait for engine to stall.
·Disconnect the GROUND CABLE from car battery.
·Reinstall fuel pump fuse back into fuse box.
·Open fuel door and take off gas cap to release air pressure in fuel tank.
OEM FUEL PUMP REMOVAL :
·Remove REAR SEAT CUSHION by pulling both RELEASE RINGS underneath.
·Remove the 3 bolts holding on the TOP COVER.
·Disconnect the 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES from the top.
·The top of the fuel tank is very DIRTY. To minimize the possibility of contaminating the fuel tank, CLEAN using brake cleaner. Wipe off excess and allow to dry.
·Disconnect both HOSE CLAMPS securing the 2 fuel lines leading to fuel tank. Have some rags handy as some fuel will come out of hoses.
·Remove the SIX 8mm BOLTS holding on the securing ring. Remove the RING and set aside.
·Slowly lift sender assembly and remove the WIRE HARNESS AND HOSE CLAMP underneath. Make note of the routing of the wiring harness to fuel pump as it will need to be reinstalled the same way. Remove ASSEMBLY and place in safe place.
***UPDATE*** Supposedly you can remove the whole fuel pump assembly by unlocking a tab located underneath the fuel pump outlet hose... I didn't do this but it could save you time instead of going through some of the steps below.... Here is a PHOTO from the Haynes manual...
·You will be able to see the fuel pump assembly underneath. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully, pry off the 2 LOCKING PORTIONS of the "basket" to FREE THE TOP HALF. On the other side of the "basket" are 2 hinges. It will "swing" off the hinges after the locks are freed. This part requires some time and finesse. Picture of TOP REMOVED.
·Carefully turn the FUEL PUMP AND PICKUP assembly counterclockwise about 90o and lift to remove. Note the position of the hose and pickup for later reassembly.
REINSTALLATION OF FUEL PUMP :
·COMPARE the OEM and Walbro fuel pump. Remove the short fuel hose from OEM pump and place it onto the Walbro pump in the same position.
·Carefully remove the pickup assembly RETAINER. Remove the pickup assemble. If pickup SCREEN is dirty, clean it. REINSTALL the pickup assembly onto the Walbro in the same position. Make sure the pickup is firmly attached to fuel pump!
·Carefully replace new Walbro/pickup assembly back into lower "basket" assembly. Start 90o and carefully turn clockwise to reposition the pickup underneath "basket". The lower portion of fuel pump needs to be positioned first, then you can push down slightly to get top portion to FIT SNUGLY. If it is not positioned correctly, the WHITE BRACKET COVER TOP will not snap back in correctly correctly. Place the top cover back on by starting with the hinged side. Do not force. You may have to reposition the pump.
·Replace old gas tank O-Ring with new O-Ring.
·Reposition sender assembly over gas tank by rotating it correctly over mounting holes to avoid kinking fuel hose to fuel pump. Reconnect the HARNESS AND FUEL LINE making sure wiring is routed the same way it was taken off earlier (away from float sender unit so as to not prevent it's proper operation).
·Slowly lower seat assembly over gas tank and O-Ring. There should be no resistance or fuel hose may be kinked underneath. Refasten/torque the SIX 8mm BOLTS to specifications over the RING bracket.
·Reconnect the 2 hoses and HOSE CLAMPS to assembly top. If you mistakenly swap these, the engine will not start.
·Reconnect the 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES.
·Refasten the TOP COVER.
·Replace REAR SEAT.
·Reconnect ground on car battery.
FINAL CHECK:
Start car temporarily then shut off engine. Note if there is any smell of gasoline. You may have to remove the top cover if hose clamps were not fastened tight enough.
Aftermarket FP: Walbro GSS342 (High Pressure 255lph)
Why Needed?: If you want more than 65HP in nitrous, or do a major supercharger/turbo upgrade.
Price: It can be picked up for $95 shipped, look around on the net (i.e. ebay) for performance shops and e-mail them directly with an offer.
Performance Pontential: This pump will handle all of your upgrade needs pushing well over 100psi-enough for well over 400BHP.
Fittment Issues: This unit is the pump ONLY and will require the use of the stock pump housing and filter. It is nearly* a direct plug-in replacement for our stock pump.
*The pump has some small plastic spacer tabs on the top and bottom that need to be grinded off to fit inside our stock housing correclty. (Anyone with 2 minutes and a grinder can achieve this.)
You will also need get a new gas tank o-ring seal from your local Nissan dealer ($9).
Installation: (taken from Chunger's 4th gen. write-up)
PRELIMINARY STUFF :
WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!
·Remove the FUEL PUMP FUSE from the fuse box underneath the dash.
·Start the engine to use up the remaining fuel under pressure in the fuel line. Wait for engine to stall.
·Disconnect the GROUND CABLE from car battery.
·Reinstall fuel pump fuse back into fuse box.
·Open fuel door and take off gas cap to release air pressure in fuel tank.
OEM FUEL PUMP REMOVAL :
·Remove REAR SEAT CUSHION by pulling both RELEASE RINGS underneath.
·Remove the 3 bolts holding on the TOP COVER.
·Disconnect the 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES from the top.
·The top of the fuel tank is very DIRTY. To minimize the possibility of contaminating the fuel tank, CLEAN using brake cleaner. Wipe off excess and allow to dry.
·Disconnect both HOSE CLAMPS securing the 2 fuel lines leading to fuel tank. Have some rags handy as some fuel will come out of hoses.
·Remove the SIX 8mm BOLTS holding on the securing ring. Remove the RING and set aside.
·Slowly lift sender assembly and remove the WIRE HARNESS AND HOSE CLAMP underneath. Make note of the routing of the wiring harness to fuel pump as it will need to be reinstalled the same way. Remove ASSEMBLY and place in safe place.
***UPDATE*** Supposedly you can remove the whole fuel pump assembly by unlocking a tab located underneath the fuel pump outlet hose... I didn't do this but it could save you time instead of going through some of the steps below.... Here is a PHOTO from the Haynes manual...
·You will be able to see the fuel pump assembly underneath. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully, pry off the 2 LOCKING PORTIONS of the "basket" to FREE THE TOP HALF. On the other side of the "basket" are 2 hinges. It will "swing" off the hinges after the locks are freed. This part requires some time and finesse. Picture of TOP REMOVED.
·Carefully turn the FUEL PUMP AND PICKUP assembly counterclockwise about 90o and lift to remove. Note the position of the hose and pickup for later reassembly.
REINSTALLATION OF FUEL PUMP :
·COMPARE the OEM and Walbro fuel pump. Remove the short fuel hose from OEM pump and place it onto the Walbro pump in the same position.
·Carefully remove the pickup assembly RETAINER. Remove the pickup assemble. If pickup SCREEN is dirty, clean it. REINSTALL the pickup assembly onto the Walbro in the same position. Make sure the pickup is firmly attached to fuel pump!
·Carefully replace new Walbro/pickup assembly back into lower "basket" assembly. Start 90o and carefully turn clockwise to reposition the pickup underneath "basket". The lower portion of fuel pump needs to be positioned first, then you can push down slightly to get top portion to FIT SNUGLY. If it is not positioned correctly, the WHITE BRACKET COVER TOP will not snap back in correctly correctly. Place the top cover back on by starting with the hinged side. Do not force. You may have to reposition the pump.
·Replace old gas tank O-Ring with new O-Ring.
·Reposition sender assembly over gas tank by rotating it correctly over mounting holes to avoid kinking fuel hose to fuel pump. Reconnect the HARNESS AND FUEL LINE making sure wiring is routed the same way it was taken off earlier (away from float sender unit so as to not prevent it's proper operation).
·Slowly lower seat assembly over gas tank and O-Ring. There should be no resistance or fuel hose may be kinked underneath. Refasten/torque the SIX 8mm BOLTS to specifications over the RING bracket.
·Reconnect the 2 hoses and HOSE CLAMPS to assembly top. If you mistakenly swap these, the engine will not start.
·Reconnect the 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES.
·Refasten the TOP COVER.
·Replace REAR SEAT.
·Reconnect ground on car battery.
FINAL CHECK:
Start car temporarily then shut off engine. Note if there is any smell of gasoline. You may have to remove the top cover if hose clamps were not fastened tight enough.
10-03-2002, 03:04 PM
#12
Okay here's a dumb question. Why do I need this when the Stillen one comes with an aux. pump to boost the main one? What am I doing getting rid of both the stillen and oem one and replacing it this just one?
Help a dash-less/no headrest/F'ed Up drivers seat brother out.
Dixit
Help a dash-less/no headrest/F'ed Up drivers seat brother out.
Dixit
10-03-2002, 09:45 PM
#13
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Okay here's a dumb question. Why do I need this when the Stillen one comes with an aux. pump to boost the main one? What am I doing getting rid of both the stillen and oem one and replacing it this just one?
Help a dash-less/no headrest/F'ed Up drivers seat brother out.
Dixit
Okay here's a dumb question. Why do I need this when the Stillen one comes with an aux. pump to boost the main one? What am I doing getting rid of both the stillen and oem one and replacing it this just one?
Help a dash-less/no headrest/F'ed Up drivers seat brother out.
Dixit
10-03-2002, 11:07 PM
#14
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
There's no need to replace the OEM fuel pump.
There's no need to replace the OEM fuel pump.
I thought it replaced the OEM one since people were talking about how it fits.
Dixit
10-04-2002, 05:35 AM
#15
what dumb kev meant to say was .. if you get the aux vortech/stillen pump.. there is no need to replace the OEM pump..
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
You still aint answer my question, what is the need of this when I boost? If it dont replace the OEM one, then what does this replace? Does it replace the aux fuel pump stillen provides?
I thought it replaced the OEM one since people were talking about how it fits.
Dixit
You still aint answer my question, what is the need of this when I boost? If it dont replace the OEM one, then what does this replace? Does it replace the aux fuel pump stillen provides?
I thought it replaced the OEM one since people were talking about how it fits.
Dixit
10-04-2002, 06:41 AM
#16
Originally posted by SprintMax
what dumb kev meant to say was .. if you get the aux vortech/stillen pump.. there is no need to replace the OEM pump..
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
what dumb kev meant to say was .. if you get the aux vortech/stillen pump.. there is no need to replace the OEM pump..
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
I keep the auxillary pump on because if the main pump fails, I still can get home safely.
10-04-2002, 10:40 AM
#17
Originally posted by SprintMax
what dumb kev meant to say was .. if you get the aux vortech/stillen pump.. there is no need to replace the OEM pump..
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
what dumb kev meant to say was .. if you get the aux vortech/stillen pump.. there is no need to replace the OEM pump..
however if you run this pump the walbro.. you can run it alone without the Aux pump.. and not worry about if the Aux pump is on or not or blah blah blah.. also with this pump you are garunteed 400 bhp and 255 lph .. its a really nice high pressure fuel pump..
i think its safer to just run the walbro .. but i dunno.. delio, mardigrasmax and confused are a few boosted guys who switched over to the walbro alone
Diixt
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post