Hey that looks great.

I have a huge favor to ask of you. I am wanting to buy this intake but I want to know how close it is to the splash gaurd first. Could you please measure the distance from the end of the filter to the splash guard below and also the distance from the bottom of the battery tray to the top of the filter. I would appreciate this greatly. I you don't want to do it then I understand. Thanks

 

thats good for them, it means they're doing great business and hopefully keep passing the savings on to us.

 

It would be nice to see him get a larger inventory of Maxima parts. Even more interesting, if he does, will be to see how he can price up against Greg @ CustomMaxima. At the very least, we'll get a larger selection of nicely priced items between the two of them.

 

It is tucked in over the plastic splash guard pretty good. Hopefully this closeup shot helps. I don't have a measuring tape handy (vacation) but I would say about 2" + or - above the plastic splash guard.

 

I have a couple of questions as I've been reading most of the threads about the Injen intake.

1) Are the 00-01 guys having fitment issues with the auto and 5-speed, or is this problem only limited to the 2k2 auto/6-spd guys?

2) Does anyone have the anodized colors? I saw some pictures of the red and blue ones, but haven't really gotten any good shots. I even tried Injen's website and did a search online. The blue one is the one that i'm really concerned about. I have a feeling that it's darker than the AEM and PR intakes, but if anyone has seen these, please let me know how they compare.

Thanks in advance.

 

It just seems to me that if it is that close to the splash guard that it would still get water if you hit a small puddle????????

 

Thats what the AEM bypass valve is for !

 

Ahhhh....once again we arrive back at square one.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&pagenumber=1

Post # 6 and #8

 

Guys, just my opinion here, but I would agree with Bulldawg and a few others. I saw my first Injen CAI in a 2k2 Max today. I will admit, the darn thing is pretty. BUT, it is about 2" from the splash guard and it sits right in behind the grill. Water would be a MAJOR concern of mine if I had one installed. Without a properly installed AEM bypass Valve, you would be absolutely asking for trouble. Has anyone asked Injen about this little problem? I really like the looks of the intake...but I see the possibility of messing my engine up and I am definitely hesitant.

 

so are you going to dyno your car w/ the injen cai? i'm sure everyone wants to see the difference between it and the frankencar or berk. isn't there a dyno out there, but in 3rd gear..

 

Mine fits 100% perfect.

Tony

 

I am not sure I 100% understand the water issue.

Is it the splashing you are worried about? I think drops of water would have a hard time getting through a filter and traveling all the way up the intake tubing. When you put half of a large straw end into a glass of water and suck, how much water do you get? Nothing – drops if anything. The only way you would be able to suck water through that tube is if the filter/intake tube were completely submersed in water. Can it happen? Sure. Is it likely to happen? - Probably never. Remember, for that filter to be completely submersed you are talking a 10-14" deep puddle. How many of those do you drive through?

Also, even thought the filter is close to the grill, you cannot see the filter through the grill from the outside of the car. I am not saying it is air tight, but I don’t see how enough water could get through the front to cause an issue.

About the bypass valve not providing support - how do you know that? Have you tried to install it? It seems to me that there would be enough support to put it right after the MAF. I have never seen an AEM bypass valve in person so I do not know what it is constructed of, but if it even has the smallest bit of rigidity - should have enough support.

I have asked the people at Injen about this and they said if you want, you could put an AEM Bypass valve in. He did not seem to be concerned about the support or the chances of hydro lock.

I will give you this, the one thing that the bypass valve does give you – one big piece of mind. Is it worth it? – Probably. Would it ever be used? – Probably Not.

My $.02
Brian

 

well said once again a couple more times and you will be in the repeat for the 10th time club

 

I always find it amusing when people with some tenure on this forum turn themselves into newbies because they just won't research a subject or think it through for themselves.

There are two facts you need to be aware of:

1) You want to avoid hydrolocking your engine.
2) Water is heavier than air.

What conclusions can you draw from these facts?

(Before you cause yourselves further embarrassment, I'd recommend you conduct a search. And yes, real men do use the search function.)

 

My thoughts exactly, Brian.

I think a lot of us share the same logic in this. Does the PR filter sit behind the skirt in the wheelwell or exposed to the tire. May sound like a stupid question but I haven't seen one, so I'm not sure.
If it is exposed to the wheel (can't believe that would be the case)- that would be much worse than the Injen.

Shaydz

 

Worse in what way, Shaydz?

 

IF it IS exposed to the wheel, I would think that roadspray on wet days would be constant with the water channeling on the tires spinnning on the filter woud eventually lead to some being sucked up.
Also, the PR doesn't appear to be as vertical as the Injen and the water may travel easier towards the MAF and TB.
I really can't believe that the filter is exposed like that though.
What kind of clearance would exist with large wheels on a lowered vehicle. It's probably a moot discussion for the PR.

I guess someone can really get **** and put a hydoelectric sensor in each intake behind the filter to get some moisture readings in the same situation, but really the issue is will hydrolock occur with the Injen if you don't ride through 14" deep puddles. Perhaps a poll.
(God, we are beating this intake subject to DEATH - I bet 20% of the threads talk about it somewhere).

 

Road spray, splashes, and rain water drops are not the concern here. The concern is completely soaking the filter in water...that is what causes water to get sucked up into the throttle body...when there is no other lighter substance to suck up. Come on folks...reach back into that 7th grade science class. Water is not going to travel UP the intake tubing if there is air present. The key words here are "UP" and "GRAVITY."

You can test this pretty easily with some PVC piping and a vacuum cleaner...I'm sure you can figure it out. Hell, test it with no air filter on the end and I'm betting the vacuum doesn't suck up water. Maybe, if I'm bored out of my f'ing mind, I'll do this test since my intake isn't installed yet and see if I can't post the results for you guys.

 

Congratulations, MichaelAE. You are correct. And the operative word you were looking for instead of "soaking the filter" in the second sentence of your first paragraph is "submerging".

Having said that, I STILL would not run a true CAI without an AEM air bypass valve installed. I realize the chances of hydrolocking an engine are remote. But it actually happened to my wife once and once was enough.

BTW, I'd LOVE to see you post a poll on this topic, Shaydz. I can't wait to find out how many geniuses out there believe that water spray on their air filters can actually damage their engines.

 

It was sarcasm. I thought it was more than obvious from my post that I understand the water issue.

I hope I did not interpret your post wrong.

Brian

 

Note the Sarcasm smilie in the post - no Poll from me on this.

So if I understand your hard stand on this correctly, submerging an intake filter (with no air flow) is the only possible way for water to get to the MAF and TB. I also noted earlier that the PR is not as vertical as the Injen (I see afterwards that you and Michael also noted your observation that gravity plays a part).

I guess we all realize the common sense of what you are pointing out but I still believe that if a filter regardless of where it is, gets soaked and does not have a significant vertical path of airflow there is the chance that some moisture can collect inside and cause problems with the MAF or the Engine.

If you feel confident that this is not the case, I respect that.
I still feel that the Injen CAI has a very unlikely chance to experience hydrolock regardless of a soaking because of its vertical configuration. I think we all agree with that - maybe I just interpreted your words as a little harsh and condescending.

Sorry if I was unclear and really sorry about your wife's car. You do have some experience with the angst associated with a problem occuring from this - hope I don't (especially my wife -I'd never hear the end of it).


Shaydz

 

...that the majority of Max owners who participate here are well learned and Maxima.Org provides are great learning experience.

I'm a newbie and while "search" is the operative work on any forum and the tenured folk love to flame the newbies where appropriate on the topic, most searches here yield pretty good results. At least that has been my experience.

I'm not an DIY-Mod-installer but I'm definitely gonna do the Injen CAI. Looks great and it sounds like those that are running it are happy with the performance gains.

What I wanna know is: Are/is there a reputable speed shop in the DC area that can do good mod work (ie CAI install) for my 2k2 Max? Or are there Org members who do this for other org members for a modest fee?

I did search the "how-to/installation" threads but I'm not sure about install variations for a specific CAI vs another brand of CAI.

Reading the threads about the sensativity of the MAF and the special handling required to ensure it stays reliable after a CAI install just lets me know that I should not be doing this work as a DIY without prior experience or instruction.

Thanks for the assist.

 

Thomas (I assume),

I knew I had seen the install guide for the 2K2 Injen somewhere and did a quick search.

Check out www.vqpower.com/injen.htm and you can see if it appears too complicated.

I think as long as you are careful with the MAF and DO NOT turn your car on while it is disconnected (it will throw a CEL), you're OK.

Another wrinkle is that the sad truth is that the 2K2's have had some issues on the MAF (as you've seen conversation on). Lots of posts on the oiled K&N filters and such but
there was a poll a month or so ago and it did not seem to matter if you had a Berk, Frankencar or stock - that if you have a pre-Nov 2001??? (help me out here guys) prod date that a substandard MAF was used. If it goes, the replacement will be a hardier, sturdier more max-driver-friendly model. If you replace the intake and you have the original MAF - keep you stock box in the trunk to change it back before taking to dealer to avoid any hassle.


Hope the link helps.

Shaydz

 

I am not sure on the date...I have a 12-01 build and I have had the MAFS *glitch* as well.

Brian

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shaydz

I think as long as you are careful with the MAF and DO NOT turn your car on while it is disconnected

Another wrinkle is that the sad truth is that the 2K2's have had some issues on the MAF

If you leave the MAF sensor connected and assemble the intake inside the engine bay you wont run into any problems with the MAF sensor. I installed both my Frankencar and Injen without disconnecting the MAF. Check engine light has never been on.

just my .02c

Dave

 

Oh well - mine is 7/01 anyway and I'm just waiting for the service trip. Did you have another intake when it went or was it stock box?

Shaydz

 

Good Tip! Thanks Dave

 

The problem isn't water getting to the MAF or the TB, Shaydz. It's water getting inside the cylinder. And I'm not talking about water vapor. I'm talking about enough of the liquid stuff to prevent the piston from compressing. Generally speaking, the only time you're going to get that much water into the cylinder is if the air inlet is submerged.

 

Quote:

Originally posted by maximadave


If you leave the MAF sensor connected and assemble the intake inside the engine bay you wont run into any problems with the MAF sensor.

Aren't you being just a wee bit optimistic about that, Dave? After all, MAF sensors are failing on OEM intakes and I think it's safe to assume that nobody removed the sensors from those before they failed.

FWIW, I've removed and reconnected the MAF sensor on my 2K SE three times. I haven't run into a problem so far.

 

I see (said the blind man to his deaf son who wasn't really listening anyway with his headphones on).

That makes a lot more sense, Y2KSE. So moisture, condensation, ect. is Ok.
It's when you go for a pond drive or reservoir race that you have to worry. Well you can always go the snorkel route like a Humvee.

Are you planning to go CAI anytime (I know you got that Service writer in your pocket)?

I've got to take mine in for the Hood Vibration TSB tommorow. My guy didn't even go for a drive - just took my word (Need to get him a bottle of Jack or something ).

Shaydz

 

If I do go the CAI route, I'll buy an Injen CAI. But I'm pretty satisfied with my Berk Tuning intake and I'm not in a hurry to make any changes just yet. If anything, I made add the Berk Tuning mid-pipe when it becomes available. I'll wait to see what Bryan decides to sell it for and then make up my mind.

 

Other threads I've seen say otherwise, oh well

 

Hey...I posted a photo of the BLUE Injen pieces in my thread about the spray paint experience. Still not on car since I don't have the time. My BLUE HoseTechniques kit arrives tomorrow, so my July 4th day off might be a big day of BLUE.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=132966

 

I was considering an Injen intake (since I don't want to drill using the PRCAI) but after reading this I'm still undecided if not more confused...

 

Yup. I've seen those too, Dave. There seem to be four major theories as to why MAF sensors fail.

The first is oil or dirt contamination on the MAF sensor element. That, of course, is Nissan's official position. The problem with Nissan's position is that oil and dirt can be cleaned off a sensor element and the sensor should then function normally. (In fact, I read one thread where someone actually did just that. After he cleaned off the sensor element with throttle body cleaner, the sensor returned to normal operation.) If that's the case, why does Nissan insist on replacing the sensor and reprogramming the ECU instead of simply attempting to clean the sensor element first?

The second is vibration. This theory has a number of proponents and seems to center on the "flimsy" design of the Frankencar intake supporting bracket. The problem is, Frankencar intakes don't appear to be causing MAF sensor failures at a proportionately higher rate than any other aftermarket intake. So vibration can probably be ruled out.

The third is rough handling. Certainly rough handling could be the cause of some MAF sensor failures. But my own personal experience indicates that the MAF sensor is more resistant to damage from multiple installations and removals than people give it credit for.

The fourth theory and the one that I happen to subscribe to is that the MAF sensor is simply a POS! It belongs in the same compost heap as Nissan ignition coils. According to this theory, the MAF sensor is poorly engineered, poorly built, and subject to failure. In fact, the original design was so bad that replacement MAF sensors seem to be using an entirely different design that requires an ECU reprogramming.

Which of these theories or which combinations of them are correct is open to conjecture. But one thing's for certain. Nissan MAF sensors are failing at WAY too high a rate.

 

Where are the dyno numbers????

Feels like it pulls harder just doesn't cut it in my book. Without forced induction the shorter the pipe/hose/straw the more air can be pulled through it and Frank/MAF/Filter is as short as it gets for us. Water is then not an issue!

I must say the Injen sure does look good. I would like to get a modified version of it that goes through the slpash gaurd to pump air to the intake.

 

Who cares about the dyno numbers? Unless the dyno experience includes a big-a$$ fan which inceases air-speed to simulate acceleration from 0-100mph, how will the dyno accurately measure the difference in performance between a HAI and CAI? The proposed value of the Injen and PR CAI's are the fact that they bring cold air into the engine, which is deemed better for power production by the gods of your throttle-body. That value-add cannot be accurately measured by a dyno when your car is at a stand-still. Butt-dyno's, some serious on-board computer equipment, or Dyno+Big-A$$ Fan are your only choices

 

That would be called the Place Racing Cold-Air Intake. It has been on the market for quite some time. CAI, like the Injen, but routed through a hole in the federwall.

 

A dyno can not tell you what kind of gains you get from just removing on intake and putting on another? That is a new one on me. From what I saw with my own eyes, when I took off my stock black box and filter and put on the Stillen intake, I gained horsepower at the wheels (only 8 but it's something.) We did two pulls before and two pulls after the install with the same results. (No fan either except a ceiling fan 20 feet in the air) I am going to do the same with the Injen also. I think my fears have been alleviated when it comes to the water destroying my engine thing. (Nods to Kev)

 

I stated that a dyno cannot adequately reflect the differences between a Hot-Air Intake and a Cold-Air Intake unless a fan is adequately representing the intake of cold air at increasing velocity during acceleration. The key value of a Cold-Air Intake is the presence of exceptionally cold-air during acceleration, which a car sitting on a dyno does not get.

Your example does not represent the situation I was referring to. Plainly stated, I am saying that a dyno cannot be used to compare the Frankencar, Berk, Stillen, JWT, and stock air intakes to the PR or Injen CAI. The true value of a CAI cannot be realized on a dyno.

Do you understand/disagree?