KPierson

Hey how's it going?

I have recently finished designing and building a module that adds the ability to put the windows up in Infiniti G35s/350Zs. In the G35 the factory remote has the ability to roll the windows down, but, in order to put the windows up you either have to put the key in the ignition and hit the window switch or put the key in the door lock cylinder and turn it to the lock position.

Does the window system on the Maxima work this way? I've been hearing that all newer Nissans operate in this fashion. If the power window system does operate this way then it should be very easy to retrofit my widow module into the Maximas as well as the G35/350Z. Is there any interest among Max owners? Anyone in the Dayton, Ohio area willing to work on this project with me (basically just need to check out the car and make sure everything is exactly the same and see if any program changes need to be made)

Basically, the system is very simple. If you press the 'lock' button twice within 1 second the windows go all the way up. If you either turn on the igniton or press the lock button WHILE the windows are going up the window will stop (safety). ALL factory features are maintained and operate normally. Also, the system can be set up to automatically lock the doors 6 seconds after the ignition is turned on (feature missing from the G35). Do the retained accessory power it is NOT possible to UNLOCK the doors when you shut the car off, so if you cannot open the door while it is locked this feature can be disabled.

Please post your thoughts on this matter,

Thanks,
Kevin Pierson

For more info check out: (Very long thread, but covers entire project)
http://g35driver.com/forums/showflat...sed&sb=5&part=

Max Cat

Dude! I just dropped $500 on a remote start/alarm system so I could have these features. Okay, well, I did want a "real" alarm and remote start too, but having auto locks and window UP were high on my list as well.

Yes, the Max works exactly like the G35. No windows up with the remote, and no auto locks whatsoever. Looks like a great project!

KPierson

Two questions for you:

If the doors are locked can you open them without unlocking them? On my G35 if the doors are locked and you pull the inside handle the door opens. Is the Max like this?

Second: How exactly are you putting the windows up with the alarm? Did you have to buy a pulse timer or does the alarm have the ability built in?

Thanks for your help,
Kevin

Max Cat

1) Yep, this is the same too. In fact, I asked my installer to DEprogram the auto unlock feature because I have kids and didn't want anyone having the ability to open the doors from the outside until I hit unlock or they were opened from inside.

2) The alarm has multiple channels. My installer used one of the aux channels to do both up AND down. If the alarm is armed, hitting the aux channel does windows up, if it's disarmed, the aux does windows down. Not sure exactly how he managed this, but I'll ask him when I email him next. He is THE resource for this stuff and is very knowledgable.

3) Check your PM here for info about the project boxes.

KPierson

I have quite a bit of alarm experiance myself.... He must have used a (-) when armed signal from the alarm to control a SPDT relay when engergized (system armed) would make the windows go up and when deenergized (disarmed) would make the windows go down. Very good thinking on that! Do you just hold the button down as long as you want the windows to go down or is it just timed?

Also, I'm still not clear on the door locks. If the doors are locked and you pull on the handle on the inside of the door does the door open or just remain locked and make you feel dumb for trying to open a locked door????

Thanks for your help,

Kevin

Max Cat

On the windows, they go for as long as I hold the aux channel, so no timed relay (which is fine because I'd rather be able to "crack" them from afar to let the steam out on a 110 degree day, then autostart to let the A/C take over.

Yes, on the locks, they do unlock when you pull the handle from inside, even if they are locked.

Blue04SEinIL

The reason that Nissan is not putting a windows-up function into cars, I'm guessing, is for liability reasons. Its possibly dangerous to have the ability to put the windows up from a distance when the car may not even be in the line of sight. For example...if someome in the car were to have their head or arms hanging out.

Max Cat

True, the OEM's have to worry about all kinds of stuff like this to save multi-million dollar lawsuits. I really like my setup though, I can't do "windows up" unless the alarm is armed. Hopefully, nobody is in the car when I arm it. If so, the poison gas and taser darts are gonna get 'em anyway so a lil ole window chopping their arm off is the least of their problems

KPierson

The G35 has an anti tension mechanism that detects objects stuck in the window, and I'm fairly sure the Max would have it too, I guess they were just worried about if that failsafe failed!

KPierson

What kind of alarm is it?

Max Cat

Clifford RSX 3.5 w 2-way page.

rabenoja

iTrader: (2)

I sometimes install the window up/down feature for the dealers. It's pretty easy and it only uses one relay. When the alarm is armed you can roll the windows up with the aux channel. When it is disarmed, the aux channel will roll the windows down. I usually use the domelight output from the alarm to trigger the relay.

KPierson

Just out of curiosity, how hard is it to run wires from inside the car to inside the door? In my G35 there are molex plugs that you have to drill holes in the get wires through (something I refuse to do and basically the main motivation for this project). Also, is there a service manual availible for this car? I have one for the 350 and the g35 but can't seem to find one for the maxima or the altima (on Ebay).

Thanks guys,
Kevin

rabenoja

iTrader: (2)

Not hard to run wires into the door at all. I have to run the doorlock wires into the driver's door when I do the above mod or keyless entry. The wires run through the factory boot. I haven't run into any molex plugs in a maxima yet. But, I also haven't been noticing what packages (Elite, DPP, etc.) that the cars are coming with. Maybe Nissan only uses molex plugs on the Elite packages...or maybe they don't. Like I said I haven't run into any molex plugs on the max. I'll check a couple of maxes to see if they any molex's on different packages.

By the way, what other wires do you need for your module? Besides the obvious door lock wires?

KPierson

The current setup has 5 wires, power, ground, IGN (RAP is ok), Door lock signal from lock cylinder, and Door lock motor (+). The entire module is designed to be mounted in the door so that you don't have to run wires through the jam. Anyone in the Dayton, Ohio area interested in being a test car? Or, I will be in and out of the Philly area until early May if anyone in that area is interested. I would really like to have a couple of hours to test compatibility. I met up with Stopgo (from my350z.com) today and installed one of these modules in his '03 350z.

Thanks,

Kevin

rabenoja

iTrader: (2)

Pretty cool...so you would just need the power, ground, and ign into the door. Are you mass producing these modules? How much are you selling them for?

It could be something that I can offer as extras to the dealers.

How difficult are they to program (I think you mentioned programming options)? What kind of warranty can you offer on the modules?

KPierson

In the cars I've worked on so far you can find the power, ground, and IGN at the power window module, as well as the door lock cylinder wire, so 4 wires are all in the same harness. The door lock motor has been inside the door, usually right behind the speaker. Makes for a fast, clean, easy install. I am not 'mass' producing them, unless there is enough interest. My first batch will have 20 units availible and after that I am planning on ordering another 80 custom printed circuit boards. If you would be interested in being a 'distributor' I'm sure we could work something out, and I could give you a quantity discount. Selling them one by one my goal is to keep the price, with shipping, to under $50 once I get some inventory built up. Also, I am planning on building quite a few different circuits to add features to Nissans. I should have a website up and going within the next 30 days listing the products I will be selling.

Programming is very easy on this module, and is through the OEM remote. The only programmable feature is the ign controlled door locks. turn the ignition on and press the lock button 3 times within 5 seconds AFTER the doors lock and it shuts them off. To turn them back on press the lock button three times within 5 seconds after you turn the ignition on.

I'm planning on offering a limited lifetime warrenty on the product itself. The 'limited' part basically means as long as there is interest in the project and I am selling units I will replace any defective boards for free. If the project dies down I don't want to have to keep an inventory just for warrenty reasons. From the responses I've got so far it would seem that there is enough interest to keep it going for quite some time.

Thanks,

Kevin

KPierson

I've spent some time thinking about the 'up when armed' and 'down when disarmed' setup. I wrote the code tonight to make a validity channel multiplexing solution. basically, if you hold the button down the windows will go down like normal. If you press the AUX button and release it and then hold it down the windows will go up. This doesn't rely on system status at all, and might be a lot easier to use. Let me know if you are interested in this at all, I haven't actually built the circuit or completely checked the software, but it all appears to work so far. I think this alarm accessory will add flexibillity and speed up installations. And, if produced would not be all that expensive considering the capabilities it would add. I know this is off topic from the main post, but is somewhat related to topics brought up in this post!

Kevin

rabenoja

iTrader: (2)

Let me pitch your window module to some of my accounts and see what the response is. I will let you know how many of them are interested in something like this. I'm assuming that the module is universal, meaning that if a car can control the windows through the door lock cylinder then the module would work. Let me know if I'm right. The only reason I'm asking is because I service some audi/vw dealerships and these cars have that feature. This gives me a bigger customer base to pitch to.

I read your solution to the mulitplexing aux channel. I think that it would be real hard to market something like that. I'm saying this because wiring up the aux channel with a relay is an effective and very cheap solution. I think that I pay about $.50 for a relay. Also if you wanted to control the windows regardless of the status of the alarm, you can just use one channel for up and the other for down. A couple of diodes to handle any backfeed and that should take care of it. I'm not trying to knock you down or anything, I'm just offering my opinion.

PS - I think that it's pretty cool that you can even create the code and make your own circuit boards!

KPierson

Thank you very much for your advice, I really appreciate it. The whole aux channel multiplexer was something I wanted to build for a long time, as for a long time I have been a DEI installer. Most DEI alarms only offer you one validity output. Without a validity output you would need a latching relay to make the 7 second pulse that is necessary to put the windows all the way up. Anyways....

Let me know about what you accounts say. Any advice on me approaching dealerships?

The module should be universal. My timing is not hardware selectable yet. That might be something I can program in. Like I said above, it is a 7 second output. I have heard that VWs need a really long pulse, but I'm not sure.

I write the code, but I don't make the boards. I did the layout and sent it out to a company that produces them and sends them to me. At $13 a 3.6" X 3.6" board it is not the most economical way to do things but it gets the job done.

Where are you located at and how many accounts do you have?

Kevin

rabenoja

iTrader: (2)

Approaching dealers can be very tough. Most of them already use someone and if not, they most likely aren't intersted in dealing with anybody at all. As with most things, it's who you know...at least that's how I got most of my accounts. But, if you are going to go into the dealers, I would suggest talking to the F&I guys. They are the ones who are selling these aftermarket accessories to the customers and their sales staff. Insurance is a must with dealers...they want to see that you carry at least a $1 mil policy. Also, offer them onsite installation and service. This can be a big advantage for you and them. They do not have to worry about the car going off the lot and you won't have to worry about having the overhead charges for a shop. Also let them know about your warranties that you can offer them...I usually match the factory warranty of the car. This is where you need to be dealing with a good supplier that can extend their warranty of their products.

I only have a few accounts but, it is enough for me to keep busy. The only thing with dealers is that you have to give them terms for the billing. That means that you will have to put up all of your product and labor costs for at least a month's worth of work...so, the more dealers you have the more it's going to cost upfront. I service my dealers and sub-contract to a few expiditers.

Hope some of that helps you out.