BigCat44

Any suggestions on things to avoid? I'm going with Mobil 1 and I bought 2 filters (Bosch and Pure One) I'll probably go with the Pure One as I have heard nothing but good things about them.

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

doing it yourself? I was looking at the owners manual and they make the dealer do a big check up on the car aside from the oil change, does that come with the check up or is that extra?

to answer your question: I only do nissan filters.

BigCat44

My dealership typically does a 28 point inspection but it has been to them so much for warrenty work that everything looks good. I prefer to do as much as I can myself. But sometimes you learn some lessons the hardway with certain vehicles. I had a Montero Sport that just to change the oil, you had to remove all the skid plates, then by the filter there was a standpipe that oil would stay in so removing the filter was always messy...things like that you always learn the first time to avoid!!

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

I hear that. the reason I ask is because I don't bother doing it myself, but I do wanna keep my car on top of the maitenance schedule. I was just wodering if it was a extra option or it came with the check up, thanx I'll have to ask. (MA dealer might differ)

lightonthehill

Those changing their own oil filter should just be thankful the 6th gen filter is not more difficult to reach.

I changed the oil regularly on my '85 Maxima, and that was miserable. On the '85, Nissan simply turned the engine from the 280Z sideways, with the filter wedged between the engine and the firewall, totally unaccessible from the top. I burned myself many times changing that filter. Also got hot oil in my mouth one time.

My dealer checks out lots of things with each oil change. And always reduces the air in my front tires from 35 to 33 (I keep my back tires at the recommended 33, but front at 35), which I immediately raise back to 35 on my way home.

BigCat44 - I hope you used dino oil for the first 10K or thereabouts. Nissan recommends dino the first 20K, but I feel the engine is fairly well broken in by 10K. Using synthetic earlier won't damage the engine; it just means the engine will not be completely broken in (synthetic is so good it actually prevents the engine parts, rings, etc from 'mating'), hence will not operate as efficiently over the long haul.

lowkey122

I just recently did my own oil change last week at 2813. I was going to change it at 3000 but read here that it's supposed to be changed at least once before the 3k mark to remove manufacturer junk from the oil. I got the Mobil 1 drive clean plus and M108. Not to sound like an idiot, but what is dino? I hear that term alot but not sure what it means. I've only heard of synthetic and regular. Is that like the drive clean plus which is a combination of reg and syn?

It's easy to get to, just pull back the flap behind the passenger side wheel and get busy. Just have something in place directly under the filter or you'll be cleaning up oil for days.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

dino(saur) natural oil found in the ground. aka "regular oil"

why did you switch to syn right away? I know more high-end cars come oem with the stuff, but when the manufacturer (Nissan) says not to switch until later (why would they care for personal/profit gains?) I listen. Also if you have the money to blow on that filter, go ahead. I really like my oem filter for $5. Mobil filter was tested and rated as slightly better but cost a lot more. And why the "drive clean" syn?

Maybe it's just me, but I like to gather as much info (facts and opinions) before deciding such things.

Castrol GTX (dino) changed at 1k and every 3750 afterwards until I reach 20k. Then Mobil 1 every 5k. (maybe i'll get it analyzed to see if it can last longer) and always Nissan oem filters.

BigCat44

OK just finished up the oil change, the only thing that sucks is the oil filter is located just above the control arm so you are going to make a small mess, nothing major. Reason I went to synthetic is because I am just about to pass the 20k. Reason I went for the Pure one filter by Purolator is they are by SAE standards the best on the market and cost 5 bucks. In a few weeks I 'll be changing my Y-pipe so I started gauging that job today while the car was on the lift, looks simple but you know how that goes!!

NIKV69

BigCat44,

Which filter did you use? I did a lot of research and I am going to use the Nissan 15208-9E000 and then go to the Mobil 1 105. The only two filters that are good quality and the 105 gives you a lot more filtration. I am going to do my first oil change in the next couple of days

I will pull the right front wheel, makes it so much easier. Will take some pics and hopefully will be able to post them here!

BigCat44

Used the Pureolator Pure One...do some research on it, you'll be impressed! I am normally a OEM or K&N guy (my bikes) but this filter is nice and cheap. If you can get underneath the car you don't have to pulll the wheel, just put a pan underneath and reach up by the pass side wheel it's very easy to get to. My RX8 was upside down on the car so anything is cleaner then that!

carcus

Only reason I am going with the Nissan dealer is that it cost me $9.99 for an oil change at the dealer I bought the car from, plus tax. To me with oil and the Nissan filter, that is cheaper than me buying the filter and well.....not that dino oil is expensive....but 10 bucks for an oil change at the dealer, not worth my time doing it myself.

Now, once I get some miles on it.....

Going with Mobil 1 and a nice Fram filter as I have done for years.....only when I get moved to another Air Force Base away from the dealer here....the $9.99 oil change it seems is a local dealer thing here.

Curious though for all you guys, how much do your dealers charge for an oil change? You can't beat dropping it off and no oil under your finger nails for 10 bucks and change....and while there you can get the quirks fixed.

NIKV69

Carcus,

I used to be a FRAM man, used nothing else but found out it's not a great filter. I know the Mobil 1 is 7 bucks more but it is much better. In the long run I think it makes sense.

lightonthehill

Carcus - My dealer charges around $24 for oil/filter change and that includes checking/topping all fluids, as well as tires, etc.

But I always have a coupon to get it done for $19 or $21. My dealer doesn't even care if the coupon has expired, and if I don't have it with me, he still keys in 'coupon' and gives me the discount.

The few times I have used other Nissan dealers (like when I am a thousand miles from home, and it is time for an oil change), the prices were comparable. That is about what Ford charges for my wife's truck, about what Accura charges for my son's TL Type S, and about what Toyota charges for my daughter's (ugh) Camry.

lowkey122

So you're saying it's just as bad to switch to the combination of syn and reg, any synthetic in your engine before 10 or 20k is going to cause problems?

I've always had older cars and for some reason stuck to valvoline. When I got this car, I decided to read up on what the Nissan veterans have been using so I saw that the Mobil1 (reg & plus) was suggested and figured if I'm going to buy oil, might as well go with the plus version. Didn't know the blend was as bad for the engine so soon. Would it be wise to switch to reg for a while or is the damage done?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

I have not found solid/factual proof of long term effects dealing with any of this....
but I like to go with caution according to expert opinions.
It is supposed to be fine to switch back and forth and even mixing the 2. Many will strongly disagree. But make one of them show you a damaged engine/part b/c of it....

It is stated that Syn may prevent the engine from properly/fully setting right. but I'm sure you may never see/notice any such effects except maybe lower fuel economy. Yet, I prefer to be cautious and see that Dino Castrol GTX is good enough for to hold off on the Syn til 20k.

Personally I would go fully Dino or fully Synthetic. I didn't know of a Plus version. I figure Mobil1 5W-30 is more than adequate.

look for the Mobil1 site for their myths and facts. yes they want to sell their product to you, but they still have to cover themselves legally. (why they suggest the manuf. mileage for changing, even though it lasts a lot longer)

edit:
oh yeah, some believe in the 20k til syn so much, that they suggest one should switch back to Dino until then if they switched early. I would probably just stick with it (kinda lazy side to do another oil change so soon. and $$ saving side to not waste the oil/filter.) guess you could save and reuse the Syn, but it's already in there now even if you change back....
so that's your call.