SS line install
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by MObruin
What kinda mod is this?? What does replacing that line do??
-MO-
-MO-
the steel lines don't so all the power goes to the brake vs loosing it in the expansion of the rubber line...
this install stops the car better that the old system...
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
this is the stainless steel brake lines swap..... your oem line expands in heavy braking cause its rubber...
the steel lines don't so all the power goes to the brake vs loosing it in the expansion of the rubber line...
this install stops the car better that the old system...
the steel lines don't so all the power goes to the brake vs loosing it in the expansion of the rubber line...
this install stops the car better that the old system...
Out of curiousity who is the manufacturer of your braided SS lines?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by Atomic_Ed
Looks like a fine job!
Out of curiousity who is the manufacturer of your braided SS lines?
Out of curiousity who is the manufacturer of your braided SS lines?
for 112 shipped......
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
I'm not sure, I got them from "automax95", he is a group deal member here..
for 112 shipped......
for 112 shipped......
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by Atomic_Ed
I was curious because the company I work for manufactures teflon lined SS braided hose but it is for the Aerospace industry. You did a nice job on the install and the strength over the rubber stock ones is dramatic.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Thanx Tek for the detailed how-to. I would just like to add a couple things:
The 10mm "bolt" is not a bolt, but a "flare nut', a common fitting on most brake lines. I notice that the hex heads on yours are chewed up, probably from using an open end wrench. You should never use open end wrenches or crescent wrenches on flare nuts. The proper tool is called (believe it or not) a "flare nut wrench" and it will easily remove or tighten the fitting without buggering up the hex head. Here's a pic:

All good mechanics have a set of flare nut wrenches in their toolbox.
The 10mm "bolt" is not a bolt, but a "flare nut', a common fitting on most brake lines. I notice that the hex heads on yours are chewed up, probably from using an open end wrench. You should never use open end wrenches or crescent wrenches on flare nuts. The proper tool is called (believe it or not) a "flare nut wrench" and it will easily remove or tighten the fitting without buggering up the hex head. Here's a pic:
All good mechanics have a set of flare nut wrenches in their toolbox.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by 04RedOpMax
Thanx Tek for the detailed how-to. I would just like to add a couple things:
The 10mm "bolt" is not a bolt, but a "flare nut', a common fitting on most brake lines. I notice that the hex heads on yours are chewed up, probably from using an open end wrench. You should never use open end wrenches or crescent wrenches on flare nuts. The proper tool is called (believe it or not) a "flare nut wrench" and it will easily remove or tighten the fitting without buggering up the hex head. Here's a pic:

All good mechanics have a set of flare nut wrenches in their toolbox.
The 10mm "bolt" is not a bolt, but a "flare nut', a common fitting on most brake lines. I notice that the hex heads on yours are chewed up, probably from using an open end wrench. You should never use open end wrenches or crescent wrenches on flare nuts. The proper tool is called (believe it or not) a "flare nut wrench" and it will easily remove or tighten the fitting without buggering up the hex head. Here's a pic:
All good mechanics have a set of flare nut wrenches in their toolbox.
**note.. this part is very easy to strip so use something to grab ahold of it good or will strip easy..**
the 10mm bolt is actually the bolt on the caliper from the factory brake lines... a 12mm bolt goes back in with the new lines that I bought..
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by nyautostyle
awesome, how much of a difference has it been since the install?
highly recommend this install..
for one, you won't have to press the pedal down as far.. and when you step on it hard, you will actually make the wheels squeel to a stop... that awsome!! (with factory 18s)
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by dhanna_01
I believe that a complete replacement of the fluid id required with the new lines correct. Is there any techniques os good tricks to this on the maxima.....
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
I did change the fluid, and there is no trick.. when I took out the oem lines the fluid leaked all out, so the new fluid just simply goes in the reservoir then bleed all the lines.. thats it..
Thats the same thing I did, refilled and bleed.
Since I installed my, the braking feels alot better.
Tks for the pics Tek-Niq. Priceless. I just received my set of Techna-fit SS lines through alamomotorsports.com for $111.45 total. #NIS-1140, with Black PVC sheat. Will install this week-end.
Originally Posted by ramberg
Why only the fronts?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by jsmithsole
Yes I felt the difference! Looking good Tek but what about the rotors, are you getting them as well?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Installed Mossy Performance high performance brake lines. They consist of a teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar, protective coating, stainless steel and then clear shrink. Each line is pressure tested to 4000 psi.


Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
those are perfect size Chern, mines were alittle long on the rear like Glude, but still installed them with some tucking in..
nice..
nice..
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,268
Originally Posted by Glude
Ya I assumed if they were too long I could just get creative with some mini zipties. Il get around to installing those sometime, probably when I flush the fluid to put in the few bottles of blue fluid ive had sitting around forever.
Originally Posted by chernmax
Installed Mossy Performance high performance brake lines. They consist of a teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar, protective coating, stainless steel and then clear shrink. Each line is pressure tested to 4000 psi.




Just installed my SS lines on front this morning. WTF. I can get the ABS to engage at about 40 on hard stop. What a rush. No need for Brembo calipers.
After hard braking, the front and back rotors now seem to be at same temperature. Before, front rotors would be hot but back rotors be almost glowing. Not sure if I will install SS on back.
After hard braking, the front and back rotors now seem to be at same temperature. Before, front rotors would be hot but back rotors be almost glowing. Not sure if I will install SS on back.
When i get the 300ZX calipers with SS lines i anticipate ill need 4 point harnesses to hold me in on a hard stop. Hey, thats a good idea . . 4 point harnesses. While Im at it, maybe ill put in racing seats.
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
When i get the 300ZX calipers with SS lines i anticipate ill need 4 point harnesses to hold me in on a hard stop. Hey, thats a good idea . . 4 point harnesses. While Im at it, maybe ill put in racing seats.
it mu$t be nice...really nice... $$ line$, 4 point harne$$e$, racing $eat$... ju$t freaking nice... im hating man....
Luigi
Originally Posted by luigi'smax
it mu$t be nice...really nice... $$ line$, 4 point harne$$e$, racing $eat$... ju$t freaking nice... im hating man....
Luigi
Luigi
Uhhhhh i'm not sure if you guys "bled" your brakes after installing these lines......maybe a stupid comment but it has not been mentioned any where throughout this thread......so if you have NOT bled your brakes after installing the lines, then you are loosing braking performance because of the air in the lines. Just thought i might share that, just in case some didn't know.













