idnumber1

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

Have any of you guys recieved your sway bar from cattman? I recieved my bar yesterday. Who do you recomened i take it to for installation? Will the stealership do it? I live in the Los Angeles area, any help would be appreciated. Thanks

nick wolff

iTrader: (1)

imho

just do it yourself... probably just 20 minutes tops... it bolts on.
NEVER PAY!!! it's ridiculous.

im sure somebody with a gang of mods has it on their car. ask for a write up, and get that piece on some jacks.

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

they said it would come with instruction....... no?

Roshan

is there a stickie on how to install the stillen 04 rear sway bar?

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

no........

Glude

iTrader: (5)

Should have came with instructions. Its really easy...

idnumber1

iTrader: (1)

to tell you the truth, i havent even opened the thing. I guess it should come with instructions....

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

take it to Stillen for install lucky living on the west coast. I expect mine in 2 days, install with a friend on sunday. install should be a breeze. some hints are in the og thread.

SilverMax_04

I just got home from a long trip and found my bar from Cattman was delivered. There was a single xerox sheet (both sides) of instructions on installing it from Progress Technology. There are two pictures of the installation.

I will try it tomorrow afternoon (actually today) and let you know if I have any problems. They ask you to remove both rear wheels. You do need the following tools: A jack, 2 jack stands, a torque wrench (as the torque specs are given).

ramberg

iTrader: (29)

If you don't have the tools to do the install, go to a shop. It should take them no more than a 1/2 hr to install.

SilverBelle04

That's what i did and paid about $50 or so...worth it in my opinion rahter than laying under a car on jackstands in your laneway

NashMax

Catts e-mailed me a word file with crisp pics. How would I post them?

See below. That is what I have.

pkane3

Make sure you put the you installation looks like the picture below...


Parts List
Item Quantity
Anti-roll bar (25 mm) 1
Bushings 2
Grease tube 1
Instruction Sheet 1

1. First, briefly review these instructions prior to beginning the installation.

2. Park vehicle on a smooth, level, asphalt or concrete surface. Block front wheels. Jack up the rear end of the car and support with strong jackstands placed under the chassis, not the rear suspension. Remove the rear wheels and tires.

3. Disconnect the end link from the rear bar, leaving it attached to the chassis. Remove the bushing brackets, and then remove the bar from the car. Keep the hardware and brackets (they will be reused). The Progress bar will mount in the same orientation as the factory bar (make sure you don’t reverse its position because although it will fit, the car will not operate that way).



4. Grease the inner bore of the bushing with grease provided. Mount the Progress bar using the factory brackets and bushings provided (shown above). Reattach the end links to the bar. Tighten to factory specifications.



Progress bar mounted and attached to the factory end links.
Passenger side view from the rear

5. Install wheels and tires. Lower rear of car onto ground, and roll car back and forth to settle suspension.

6. Installation is complete. Check assembly periodically for tightness.

chernmax

iTrader: (15)

pkane, great pics and instructions. Only difference during my install was I only removed 1 tire to slide the bar out. If for some reason the holes don't line up, TURN THE BAR AROUND...

I always read the instructions, but sometimes they can be overkill, example: Injen CAI install says you should remove your front bumper, that was a crazy step in my mind and not required...

Smoken'04

iTrader: (2)

Mine should be on my front porch tomorrow!

pkane3

These are the instructions Brian Catts e-mailed me. I only removed 1 tire (NO need to remove both). I sat the rear of the car on jack stands.

chernmax

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, exactly my point, just bringing out some installation advice that may be better than the manufactures...

boone

iTrader: (1)

Now for the $1,00,000.00 question... How does it drive now?

pkane3

It drives GREAT!!!

sparq

So...have any comparisons been made between these and the Stillens?

Or is a RSB a RSB..anyway u go?

Sparq.

SilverMax_04

There is also the quote on this thread: "If you don't have the tools to do the install, go to a shop." I agree with this point -- but I had the tools.

An interesting point that I have not seen before. The diameter of both the original equipment and the Cattman (made by Progress Technology) bar is exactly the same. But the Cattman bar is stronger. The original equipment bar weighed only 6 pounds (my weight holding it and not holding it on a digital bathroom scale), while the Cattman bar weighed 12 pounds because it is solid and not hollow like the original.

The complete installation took me just over 2 hours, but if I had all of the tools on site when I started, and if one of the bolts on one end link had not come loose, it would have been about 1.5 hours. I could also do another install now in less time. But speed is not important, care is. I also found that by removing both back wheels, it was much easier to work on the end-links -- both removal and install.

All of the nuts you need to remove (a total of 6) are 14 mm hex. But my 14 mm socket (all of my metric sockets) are 1/4 inch drive and this one was not long enough to clear the end of the bolt protruding from the nuts on the frame bushing brackets. So I used a 1/2 inch drive 9/16 inch socket -- which was an exact fit. (It took me some time to figure this out and get the larger tools.) I also found that I needed the longer length of the 1/2 inch drive tools, particularly the breaker bar to loosen all of these nuts.

No where have I seen a list of all of the tools you need for this job. I will list all of the tools that I used.
- Floor jack and two jack stands
- 1/2" drive breaker bar with 3" or 6" extension (the longer is better).
- Torque Wrench.
- 14 mm (or 9/16") socket that's at least 3/4" deep (1/2" deep doesn't cut it).
- A small (narrow jaw) vice grip to grab the back of the bolt on the end-link should it come loose and spin (happened on only one of my end-links).

Have not had a chance to drive the Max with the new bar. Based on the previous comments, I know I will be happy.

ramberg

iTrader: (29)

Both of them should do the same job. Both are solid. I can't tell anyone what to do but I have the Stillen ASB and the Stillen FSB. I also have Eibach lowering springs. My ride handles great on the road and on the curves. I do suggest that you get a FSB, Stillen or whoever else makes them.

FSB

ramberg

iTrader: (29)

[QUOTE=SilverMax_04]

You will feel the difference in the handling. I can't tell you what to do, but look into getting a FSB. Since you do your own installing, this should take less than a 1/2 hour. Good louck with your ride Warren

erasat

I received mine on tuesday and finally could installed it today with a friend of mine that is a Mech Tech guy. Well to make you a summary, installation is a little more trouble than my 2 previous Solara 2004 (1 Coupe and 1 Convertible), just a little bit more trouble, but nothing that great.

In a side Note, mine didn't came with any instructions at all, and at that place I didn't have anyway to knew factory torque specifications (I was relying on the instructions), so he just decided to apply normal torque (can't tell you how much now because I can't remember), but ride feels great now. Where I live I need to drive in tons of curves, so I can tell you I felt the difference immediately.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I thought the Cattman bar was 24mm thick, which is 2mm thicker than stock. Are u sure of the measurement?

SilverMax_04

Could be. All I did was take the stock rubber bushing (after removing the original bar) and place it around the Cattman bar. It seemed to fit OK, so I assumed they were the same diameter. Guess the Cattman bar could be 2 mm thicker.

pkane3

The Cattman is alot thicker than the stock. I'm very surprised you could use the stock bushing.

SilverMax_04

I did not say that I used the stock bushing, only that I put them in place on the Cattman bar and they seemed to fit. I then took them off to discard with the old bar. I used the new neopreme bushings that Cattman supplied.

The Max does handle better with the stiffer Cattman bar in the back. I'm happy with the results.

gen2000

Isn't there a 2mm difference between the 04 05 Max oem rear sway bar?

22mm for the 05, 24mm for the 04

And is that the reason that the Stillen ASB will only fit the o4?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

installed it today, very easy. increase in weight is amazing. surprised I haven't bent the oem one. Handling is greatly improved. I'll test some good ramps tomorrow where I know the stock limit was 40 mph leaning hard.

wayne6213

how does it feel?
how is it different from the stock ones?

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

some diffrence.. less body roll around turns, rebounds way quicker and alittle more stiffer...

just the less body roll will make you want it.. this comes with more control around turns at higher speeds.. just knowing that you can take a turn pretty quick is great..


diff are: is thicker and solid not hollow like the oem one..

SilverMax_04

I agree with all of this. The Max seems flatter and more in control on curves, which is the big plus.

Nismo said: "installed it today, very easy." If you can put your Max on a lift, it would be easy. But crawling around on you back under the jack stands, while not real hard, I would not describe as "easy."

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

no lift for me. jacked center point and lowered it on to stands. wheels off. under with a creeper. 6 nuts off. snake bar out, snake bar in. bushings on, brakets and nuts on. wheels on. lower. drive. 15 min. job. (well friend has air tools )

idnumber1

iTrader: (1)

I cant believe i still havent made time to install mine I have had some crazy workweeks

Mach58

Finally had time to install it. Off ramps that felt loose at 65 seem fine at 75 now. Rebound settles much quicker. Even around regular speed corners you can feel a flatter attitude out of the car.

Thanks Dues for the tip. Question, is the front strut bar worth the money in comparison to the rear sway bar? I see lots of threads on which one to buy but not many on the results.

idnumber1

iTrader: (1)

Just got mine installed this weekend... I must say the car feels flatter, more stable around corners. There still some leaning going on, but its probably me that leans, not the car.

SilverMax_04

I agree about flatter attitude.

On the question about the front strut brace, I started a new thread on this 6th gen site that asks those owners out there with the front strut brace to answer a series of questions. None of them are stepping up to these questions. Beginning to believe this step may not be worth the money, particularly the $150 for the Stillen brace.

Killah Kane

where can I get myself the front strut bar and rear strut bar?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)