Chris_RI

Hello all,

First time in a long time from me.

I'm at 45,000 miles on my '04, couple questions...

Should I just follow the manual for Engine Maintence? I havent done anything yet except oil changes every 3,000, air filters every 7,000, never replaced cabin (always out of stock) and premium gas since day 1.

More importantly my front brakes need replacing(can see them basically scraping. Should I just use the OEM's? Should I replace the rotors too? I already have a set of OEM front brakes that I bought a while ago, thinking I should get rear ones too. What does everyone think? Should I get the rotors too?

I have vibrations when braking, but its really no diff than it was on day one with 0 miles. It's prob a little worse, the rotors are prob in bad shape.

Thanks

CanadianMoFo

Get a set of rotors off ebay. There's a bunch of guys who've bought them and had nothing but praise for them. I think it was "irotor" that was selling them. Xdrilled and slotted, plated, for like $200ish?

Think about changing coolant at 45,000 too. Its about worn out. See if they'll use distilled water so there are fewer mineral deposits in there too. Only costs a few bucks for a big jug.

In-cabin air filter...depends if its full or not. Take it out and you'll probably be able to tell. You can shake it out. Tap it on the ground and hit it up with the shop-vac to return it to good condition if you don't want to purchase a new one. Someone did post a link to one for $11.80 online lately.

Hmm other than that you may want to have the door hinges and locks lubed. Check the maintainance guide to see if there's anything else you need to have done.

CM

Chris_RI

Thanks,

My drivers side door is soo stiff to open and close. Is that soemthing I can lube myself?

CanadianMoFo

Astroglide.






Seriously tho...just fire in some WD40 or something. It should be a nice white lithium grease. WD40 will do it, but not last too long.

CM

SilverMax_04

I too am coming up on 45 K miles. In addition to an oil and filter change, I plan to change the antifreeze (only use distilled water and a Jap product -- Nissan, Honda or Toyota -- whichever is the cheapest), the fuel filter (under the back seat), rotate my tires (every 7,500 miles). My brakes are in good shape (have many interstate miles) and I bought new tires and changed the air filter and my manual trannie fluid at 30 K miles. I will probably change my in-cabin air filter at 50 K miles (changed once at 25 K miles). I expect you will be surprised at how dirty this in-cabin will be and you may want a new one -- particularly having gone 45 K miles with no change.

In the Fluids and Lubes section of this site are descriptions for changing antifreeze and fuel filter. There is another thread in the 6th Gen on changing the in-cabin filter.

Good luck.

I too get some vibration from time to time when I hit my brakes, but it seems to only last for a few stops and then is gone again for a while.

y0_nate

iTrader: (1)

Hi I know I have seen a thread for this but I cant remember when.... I just got my maxx like 2 weeks ago and it seems that once and a while when i get to 60mph or so that my steering wheel seems to shake a bit and sometimes i notice the car even giving a bit of a shake...... i know this cant be normal and im thinking that its the alignment..... someone please enlighten me ! thanks

SilverMax_04

There were a number of threads on the dreaded Max shimmy.

The shimmy when you hit the brakes is a different shimmy.

Here are the ones I have in my file on the wheel shimmy:

"Does Your 2004 Maxima Shimmy?:"
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=252441

"Shimmy in the Steering Wheel:"
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=218995

There may have been other threads, but these were the only ones I added a comment on.

Also check the Stickies -- above.
Like in the TSB area:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=396883

JoesRedMax

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chris good to hear from another fellow Rhody. Get the drilled/slotted rotors they vent heat better and last longer.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

Proof? here I thought they just looked cooler

Glude

iTrader: (5)

The cross drilled rotors tend to crack over time and they are basically only for looks.

JoesRedMax

iTrader: (1)

Your right some do crack especially if the chamfers (holes) have an edge. You find these on the cheaper rotors that are just drilled or counter sunk. The more expensive rotors have outer radius curves which have no edge to heat up and crack.
As far as for performance drilled rotors allow better cooling as well as out- gasing which results in better braking and longevity. That is why you find them on the high performance cars such as Vettes, Vipers, Porche...etc.
I bought one of the better rotors out there and I paid just over 450.00 for them.

MaxFan

I bought the in-cabin filter for $11.80 @drivewire.com, 10 minutes job. Paying more for it should be a crime. You didn't mention changing the transmission oil. I just did it @29.5K. I have the 5spd Auto and it's very easy (even comparing with the oil/filter change). If the K-matic doesn't cost $9.99/quarts, I would be changing every 10Kmiles. But I will do it every year since the oil didn't look too good. It takes 3 quarts, but buy one extra just in case. I'm doing these intervals on all my cars, and they're all solid upto ~200Kmiles (mostly they go to my relatives, they know nobody is more **** about car care than me). Well except my Accord's trans which started coughing @45k (I didn't started the 1st flush until then) and finally gave up @165k.
About xdrilled/slotted rotors, I bought a whole sets @R1concepts and they lasted 2kmiles. Threw the fronts out (warped) and put the OEM back in. The rears will be out soon when the pads are gone. I've been using the Akebono pads off tirerack.com. They are smooth and so quiet, long lasting too. It's Ultra low dust, I start hating the dust after using the xslotted/drilled rotors. My rears now are still giving off about 10 times the dust than my front (doing most of the braking). I like the Akebono so much, I have a set installed in my wife's Pathfinder. And bought another set ready when it's time to put the OEM rotors back in the rear.

SilverMax_04

Lower sulfur content in gasoline will be here by March 1, 2006. Read the details of this change and the implications that the change has for OCI and exhaust system life on my new posting in Fluids & Lubes.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=456754

kdejour

^^^Good info my man.

Swerv

Anyone have an opinion on engine flushes. Are they good to do or do they harm the engine. I hear its good because it cleans out the oil deposits within the engine but harmful because the solution used in flushing the engine may cause deterioration to the engine seals.