Took a chance part II.....
04-05-2006, 08:06 AM
#1
Took a chance part II.....
Bought the UD pulley from the same guy I bought the exhaust from. After hearing from TEK that the only difference between the 3.0/3.5 crank pulley is the timing ring that can be removed I bought the UD pulley. The best pricing on the belts I found was from Rock Auto, both belts and shipping was $26.
So hoping that the pulley works, the pulley was $61 shipped and the belts $26 shipped =$87 total which is a heck of a lot cheaper than any where else.
Any tips on the UD pulley install?
So hoping that the pulley works, the pulley was $61 shipped and the belts $26 shipped =$87 total which is a heck of a lot cheaper than any where else.
Any tips on the UD pulley install?
04-05-2006, 08:11 AM
#2
Any tips on the UD pulley install?
You probably could have picked up both belts for about the same price locally, btw.
04-06-2006, 11:57 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 267
Since my car has the auto trans, it's hard to keep the crank from turning. I used compressed air (5 HP, 80 gal Ingersol-Rand compressor) and a huge (Boeing surplus, 3/4 square drive air ratchet) to remove and secure the pulley bolt. Worked like a charm!
If you had a manual trans, you could put it in gear and use a breaker bar.
If you had a manual trans, you could put it in gear and use a breaker bar.
04-08-2006, 05:23 AM
#11
Received the pulley yesterday, took the timing ring off and will attempt the install today, directions say to remove the passenger tire/fender liner and it should be there, hope my air tools have the oomph to take the bolt out. I am following the advice thatr they are left hand threads so hopefully I will not be tightening it!
04-08-2006, 06:33 AM
#12
Originally Posted by greg hazlett
Received the pulley yesterday, took the timing ring off and will attempt the install today, directions say to remove the passenger tire/fender liner and it should be there, hope my air tools have the oomph to take the bolt out. I am following the advice thatr they are left hand threads so hopefully I will not be tightening it!
thanx..
04-08-2006, 06:40 AM
#13
Will do Tek, the pulley had the ring on it and it was attatched by 4 phillips screws with locktite on it, it was a bear to get off but it's off now!
Thanks for the tip on the crank pullies being the same, that saved me a lot of money!
Thanks for the tip on the crank pullies being the same, that saved me a lot of money!
04-08-2006, 06:04 PM
#14
Well this is one of the hardest mods I have ever done. The belt set up is one of the stangest ones I have seen, the power steering belt tensioner is one of the most complicated setups I have ever worked on and the crank bolt will not budge. I used 2 different air guns and a breaker bar with myself who weighs 230lbs and my friend that weighs 270lbs straining with everything we hand to remove the crank bilt and we gave up. I am open to suggestions to those that did it themselves....
04-09-2006, 04:51 AM
#16
Yes, I had the ratchet/air gun set to tighten, we tried for 3 hours, PB blast, breaker bars, broke 2 19mm and 1 3/4 sockets, I don't know whattype of Locktite Nissan uses on the crank bolt but that thing is on there. Help!
04-09-2006, 06:51 AM
#17
I tried 3 different air set-ups that people knew had....even my neighbors who works at NAPA and is always working on car. I ended up having to bring it to a friend who works at a local Ford stealership.....first try right off no problem....and I am in no way saying to bring it to a Ford stealership.
04-09-2006, 01:57 PM
#19
Any idea what the secret was? Oh, found a hole in the cover where my pry bar dug in, has JB weld on it as we speak, not a big hole and only sprays oil above 5K...
This has not been an enjoyable experience....
This has not been an enjoyable experience....
04-09-2006, 02:02 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by greg hazlett
Any idea what the secret was? Oh, found a hole in the cover where my pry bar dug in, has JB weld on it as we speak, not a big hole and only sprays oil above 5K...
This has not been an enjoyable experience....
This has not been an enjoyable experience....
04-09-2006, 02:17 PM
#21
Originally Posted by MAXDOUT04
And for all of your troubles what was the real HP outcome? a horse or two besides a few busted knuckles and a leaky cover now
Kam
04-09-2006, 02:46 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Dude stop being a buzz kill and go to the 5th gen forums.
Kam
Kam
04-09-2006, 03:58 PM
#23
I would be happy if the UD pulley was on but can't even be happy that the job is done amd now I am being told that the bolt IS NOT a left hand thread like I was told on here. I wish someone would once and for all settle it!
04-11-2006, 06:41 PM
#30
It is finally on! The bolt is right hand thread and to loosen it normally. I tried the starter bump idea and it did not work for me, I used a chain with a J hook in the stock pulley attatched to a strap and attatched it an Excursion to keep the pulley in place and then using a breaker bar the bolt finally broke free. What an ordeal but I can tell you what to do and what not to do for this mod!
04-11-2006, 09:00 PM
#31
Originally Posted by greg hazlett
It is finally on! The bolt is right hand thread and to loosen it normally. I tried the starter bump idea and it did not work for me, I used a chain with a J hook in the stock pulley attatched to a strap and attatched it an Excursion to keep the pulley in place and then using a breaker bar the bolt finally broke free. What an ordeal but I can tell you what to do and what not to do for this mod!
04-12-2006, 03:28 AM
#33
Originally Posted by swowlinc
congrats. Can u feel any difference?
04-12-2006, 09:15 AM
#37
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Join Date: May 2005
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Originally Posted by greg hazlett
No-should I and if so for how long? On the mustangs I did it for at least 20 min to clear the memory of the ECU.
04-12-2006, 09:17 AM
#38
Originally Posted by greg hazlett
No-should I and if so for how long? On the mustangs I did it for at least 20 min to clear the memory of the ECU.
My understanding is that the aftermarket pulley -- being lighter -- "robs" the engine of less power than the stock pulley, not that the ECU would "sense" that there's less weight or anything of the sort. I know that the ECU supposedly adjusts for the extra air that it senses at the MAF with a new intake, but I didn't think it would have a similar setup for the UDP. When I think about it, I don't see how it would...
But like I said, I could be wrong...
04-12-2006, 02:29 PM
#40
Reading in the 5gen forum they said to give it a couple of days so the ecu could recognize and re-learn the weight of the UD pulley which doesn't make sense but I also read on here that the crank bolt was left hand thread and that was wrong also...