Racingline Endlinks Install : PICS :
06-05-2006, 03:31 PM
#1
Racingline Endlinks Install : PICS :
Installed thease on the weekend.
They do make the car rear end more responsive with almost no turn in delay.
Tell me what you think?
Kamski
http://www.racinglineperformance.com/re_install.html
They do make the car rear end more responsive with almost no turn in delay.
Tell me what you think?
Kamski
http://www.racinglineperformance.com/re_install.html
06-05-2006, 03:53 PM
#3
Originally Posted by ramberg
Very nice write-up. They didn't have to remove the wheels when they installed mine.
Kam
06-05-2006, 06:19 PM
#6
Cattman
I thought the Cattman rear swaybar was totaly awesome.
Thease two little parts made the Swaybar SOOO MUCH Better.
You know how you see those cars on the street, when the switch lanes or go around a corner they stay totaly flat? Well thats what my car feels like now.
My next project, Koni front struts, raceingline engine mount inserts (prevents tire hop), racingline endlinks to tighten up the front end.
TAZ, get on that front swaybar and engine mounts!!
Thease two little parts made the Swaybar SOOO MUCH Better.
You know how you see those cars on the street, when the switch lanes or go around a corner they stay totaly flat? Well thats what my car feels like now.
My next project, Koni front struts, raceingline engine mount inserts (prevents tire hop), racingline endlinks to tighten up the front end.
TAZ, get on that front swaybar and engine mounts!!
06-06-2006, 02:18 PM
#7
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 464
Here's where you can find SE-R Nismo sway bar set:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/altima/index.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/altima/index.html
06-06-2006, 03:08 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 321
Originally Posted by Albert
Here's where you can find SE-R Nismo sway bar set:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/altima/index.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/altima/index.html
Will those work for our Maxima????
06-06-2006, 07:17 PM
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,909
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Installed thease on the weekend.
They do make the car rear end more responsive with almost no turn in delay.
Tell me what you think?
Kamski
http://www.watsonsglen.com/Kam/Maxima/endlinks/
They do make the car rear end more responsive with almost no turn in delay.
Tell me what you think?
Kamski
http://www.watsonsglen.com/Kam/Maxima/endlinks/
You did not mention a big reason for getting those endlinks.......pre-load!
That is why they make them that way.
06-07-2006, 10:01 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Maximam
You did not mention a big reason for getting those endlinks.......pre-load!
That is why they make them that way.
That is why they make them that way.
What is this pre-load you speak of my houseselling grasshopper?
Does pre-load make the swaybar more responsive?
Kamski
06-08-2006, 04:57 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Mortgage1
Great write up man. Personally...I'm kinda feelin the no guess socket set with the JUMBO numbers. I suck at figuring out what size is what when I have a pile of tools.
I used to use no name brand stuff, then I bought this nice set and I love it. Whicked tools, make the install job so much easier. 
Kamski
06-08-2006, 01:28 PM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,909
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
What is this pre-load you speak of my houseselling grasshopper?
Does pre-load make the swaybar more responsive?
Kamski
Does pre-load make the swaybar more responsive?
Kamski
Here is the kicker, on a car with no adjustable suspension there wont be much change. What it does is make sure there is exactly the same load on each end so the car turns the same to the right as it does to the left. I know what your thinking "there is no load till a roll happends but the amount of twist before resistance is what I mean. Both sides must have the exact amount of twist before resistance for the car to turn the same each way.
Here is a quote from Steve Smith:
"First of all, let’s define sway bar preload and what it does. A twisting force can be added to the sway bar as the car sets in its static (non-moving) condition. This is done either by changing the length of a threaded link which attaches the bar to the lower control arm, or by raising or lowering a load bolt which attaches the sway bar to the chassis. Adding preload (pre-set twisting force on the bar) adds cross weight to the chassis. Usually a chassis is set up with the sway bar neutral (no preload) or up to 1% preload. The amount used is part of a baseline setup, and is learned with on-track experience and driver preference.
The preload is set when the car is on the scales. If a 1% preload is desired, the adjuster is screwed down until the scales show that 1% more cross weight has been added. Many times racers will start their baseline setup with neutral preload, but they know that adding 1% preload at the track will be a quick and easy way to tighten the chassis. In this case, set the preload with the car on the scales, and count how many turns on the adjuster are required to get the 1%. Then write this number down in your setup notebook. Then the bar can be restored to the neutral condition."
Now that is excessive for a street car but you can still make sure the preload is the same from side to side.
That is the reason for the threaded endlinks!
06-08-2006, 08:15 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Maximam
Here is the kicker, on a car with no adjustable suspension there wont be much change. What it does is make sure there is exactly the same load on each end so the car turns the same to the right as it does to the left. I know what your thinking "there is no load till a roll happends but the amount of twist before resistance is what I mean. Both sides must have the exact amount of twist before resistance for the car to turn the same each way.
Here is a quote from Steve Smith:
"First of all, let’s define sway bar preload and what it does. A twisting force can be added to the sway bar as the car sets in its static (non-moving) condition. This is done either by changing the length of a threaded link which attaches the bar to the lower control arm, or by raising or lowering a load bolt which attaches the sway bar to the chassis. Adding preload (pre-set twisting force on the bar) adds cross weight to the chassis. Usually a chassis is set up with the sway bar neutral (no preload) or up to 1% preload. The amount used is part of a baseline setup, and is learned with on-track experience and driver preference.
The preload is set when the car is on the scales. If a 1% preload is desired, the adjuster is screwed down until the scales show that 1% more cross weight has been added. Many times racers will start their baseline setup with neutral preload, but they know that adding 1% preload at the track will be a quick and easy way to tighten the chassis. In this case, set the preload with the car on the scales, and count how many turns on the adjuster are required to get the 1%. Then write this number down in your setup notebook. Then the bar can be restored to the neutral condition."
Now that is excessive for a street car but you can still make sure the preload is the same from side to side.
That is the reason for the threaded endlinks!
Here is a quote from Steve Smith:
"First of all, let’s define sway bar preload and what it does. A twisting force can be added to the sway bar as the car sets in its static (non-moving) condition. This is done either by changing the length of a threaded link which attaches the bar to the lower control arm, or by raising or lowering a load bolt which attaches the sway bar to the chassis. Adding preload (pre-set twisting force on the bar) adds cross weight to the chassis. Usually a chassis is set up with the sway bar neutral (no preload) or up to 1% preload. The amount used is part of a baseline setup, and is learned with on-track experience and driver preference.
The preload is set when the car is on the scales. If a 1% preload is desired, the adjuster is screwed down until the scales show that 1% more cross weight has been added. Many times racers will start their baseline setup with neutral preload, but they know that adding 1% preload at the track will be a quick and easy way to tighten the chassis. In this case, set the preload with the car on the scales, and count how many turns on the adjuster are required to get the 1%. Then write this number down in your setup notebook. Then the bar can be restored to the neutral condition."
Now that is excessive for a street car but you can still make sure the preload is the same from side to side.
That is the reason for the threaded endlinks!
for thease endlinks. for the whicked info Maximam
06-20-2006, 09:07 AM
#20
06-22-2006, 09:37 PM
#22
Anyone know if the front endlinks are available too, and if so, will they fit our car. I am almost ready to check out the SE-R front sway bar, but I wanna make sure the endlinks will fit first. Im also looking for urethane bushings for the SE-R bar.
06-30-2006, 04:36 AM
#23
Installed mine yesterday, some observations and advice:
I read/saw that a 19mm wrench was required, my stock endlinks only had a 14mm bolt on one end and the other end was solid/sealed so I only had to remove the nuts and they came out. Have the rear off the ground to elimante the tension on the RSB. If you have a stock rear suspension sans the RSB open the endlinks to the stock setting; I placed them front to back on the work bench and eyeballed them. For mine I needed 2 14mm wrenches/scokets to install them. Do not use the air tool to install them, I did that on the first side and it squashed the rubber gromet, I backed it off and it rebounded to it's normal size and used hand tools to tighten the nuts. I only tightened the nuts until I saw the gromet start to expand. It may be the placebo efffect but the rear end feels tighter!
I read/saw that a 19mm wrench was required, my stock endlinks only had a 14mm bolt on one end and the other end was solid/sealed so I only had to remove the nuts and they came out. Have the rear off the ground to elimante the tension on the RSB. If you have a stock rear suspension sans the RSB open the endlinks to the stock setting; I placed them front to back on the work bench and eyeballed them. For mine I needed 2 14mm wrenches/scokets to install them. Do not use the air tool to install them, I did that on the first side and it squashed the rubber gromet, I backed it off and it rebounded to it's normal size and used hand tools to tighten the nuts. I only tightened the nuts until I saw the gromet start to expand. It may be the placebo efffect but the rear end feels tighter!
06-30-2006, 05:01 AM
#24
Originally Posted by greg hazlett
Installed mine yesterday, some observations and advice:
I read/saw that a 19mm wrench was required, my stock endlinks only had a 14mm bolt on one end and the other end was solid/sealed so I only had to remove the nuts and they came out. Have the rear off the ground to elimante the tension on the RSB. If you have a stock rear suspension sans the RSB open the endlinks to the stock setting; I placed them front to back on the work bench and eyeballed them. For mine I needed 2 14mm wrenches/scokets to install them. Do not use the air tool to install them, I did that on the first side and it squashed the rubber gromet, I backed it off and it rebounded to it's normal size and used hand tools to tighten the nuts. I only tightened the nuts until I saw the gromet start to expand. It may be the placebo efffect but the rear end feels tighter!
I read/saw that a 19mm wrench was required, my stock endlinks only had a 14mm bolt on one end and the other end was solid/sealed so I only had to remove the nuts and they came out. Have the rear off the ground to elimante the tension on the RSB. If you have a stock rear suspension sans the RSB open the endlinks to the stock setting; I placed them front to back on the work bench and eyeballed them. For mine I needed 2 14mm wrenches/scokets to install them. Do not use the air tool to install them, I did that on the first side and it squashed the rubber gromet, I backed it off and it rebounded to it's normal size and used hand tools to tighten the nuts. I only tightened the nuts until I saw the gromet start to expand. It may be the placebo efffect but the rear end feels tighter!
stock endlink = car tilts about 10-15 degrees when endlink responds
racline enlinlk = car tilts about 1-5 degrees when the endlink responds
EDIT: spoke too soon
Brian Catts, get a set of thease, they are beyond unreal.Kam
06-30-2006, 02:42 PM
#26
Originally Posted by taz
well I told you we talked about them, but he has yet to order them. But there is talk with cattman to offer this with the progress swaybar for those ordering.
07-02-2006, 03:57 AM
#34
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 464
Finally, I got a chance this weekend to install these endlinks.
Another tip is make sure you remove both stock endlinks first.
I replaced one end first and realized that I had to loosen that
up again because it added tension to the other side making
it difficult to remove the old one.
My only question is how far should I have tighten the nuts? Anyway,
I don't want to tear the bushings so I have about 1/4" inch of the
bolt exposed after tighten up two nuts back to back.
I highly recommend these endlinks. They definitely pair up well
with my Progress RSB. Before this, I was still disappointed with
the RSB upgrade. During high speed turns, I had to adjust the
steering wheel slightly back the other way in the middle of the
turn. And that is when the RSB kicked in. It was uncomfortable
driving like that. And now with the new endlinks, the big void is
gone and the RSB kicks in quicker. They are easy to install and
I did place my rear on jack stands.
For the front, my wish list is Cattman strut brace, endlinks, and
polyurethane sway bar bushings. There have been much debate
whether a thicker front sway bar is necessary so I will see what is
the outcome.
Another tip is make sure you remove both stock endlinks first.
I replaced one end first and realized that I had to loosen that
up again because it added tension to the other side making
it difficult to remove the old one.
My only question is how far should I have tighten the nuts? Anyway,
I don't want to tear the bushings so I have about 1/4" inch of the
bolt exposed after tighten up two nuts back to back.
I highly recommend these endlinks. They definitely pair up well
with my Progress RSB. Before this, I was still disappointed with
the RSB upgrade. During high speed turns, I had to adjust the
steering wheel slightly back the other way in the middle of the
turn. And that is when the RSB kicked in. It was uncomfortable
driving like that. And now with the new endlinks, the big void is
gone and the RSB kicks in quicker. They are easy to install and
I did place my rear on jack stands.
For the front, my wish list is Cattman strut brace, endlinks, and
polyurethane sway bar bushings. There have been much debate
whether a thicker front sway bar is necessary so I will see what is
the outcome.
07-03-2006, 09:47 AM
#36
Not trying to be saracastic but how do you know? Flattened will push them out and away and would see to defeat the purpose of them...I know what they looked like when I squished them and they were not close to being flat.
07-03-2006, 09:49 AM
#37
Originally Posted by greg hazlett
Not trying to be saracastic but how do you know? Flattened will push them out and away and would see to defeat the purpose of them...I know what they looked like when I squished them and they were not close to being flat.
LOL CAUSE TAZ showed me how to install them....
you know the guy that designed thease tings mon!! 
Not like paper flat, just flat enough to squish over the spherical bearing to prevent moisutre and grime from getting in there.
SAVY?
Kam
07-03-2006, 01:19 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Albert
Kam, does the fourth picture from the end of your posting shows
how far you have tighten the nut? If so, then mine is just a little
tighter to fit in the second nut.
how far you have tighten the nut? If so, then mine is just a little
tighter to fit in the second nut.
Kamski
07-27-2006, 09:36 AM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,336
My mechanic installed mine while the car was in the shop for some other stuffs. He said that he set the length to the same as the OEM endlinks. Should I have had him set them slightly shorter for an improved response?
CM
CM