Is there a way to let me know which bolts I undo on the subframe. Its a bit confusing. Perhaps a picture with some arrows on it would be great. Also, do i need to remove the rear engine mount, or remove something on the rear engine mount?

 

There are four huge fasteners on the subframe. You can't miss them when you get under there. The rear two need to be removed and I believe they are nuts. The rear motor mount needs the long horizontal bolt removed from it so the subframe can drop away from the motor/trans.

 

I noted the large fasteners - 17mm or 19mm I think - but I also saw some brackets that appear to be involved. Is that true?

 

Do you want the pages out of the service manual?

 

Its been a while but now that you mention it I think there were a couple small brackets that were easily removed back there as well.

 

I have the service manual, but it says remove this and remove that with no details. But it may be helpful.

 

I read somewhere that the Nismo swaybars and struts/springs for the Altima also fit the Maxima, but that Nissan doesn't advertise the parts for that application for some reason.

 

If there is any other helpful hints for installing, it would be appreciated.

 

I want to do the install tomorrow (Sunday) but its gonna be well over 100 degrees again. Ill let u all know.

 

Im working on it . . . .

 

Wow!!!!!! Working on it in Rain Showers in 90+ degrees. You the Man.......Just around the corner for you Deus - Good Luck......

 

Y pipe is off and half sway bar bolts removed . . . I have other half of sway bar bolts to go (3) and then subframe bolts and rear motor mount bolt

 

All bolts off except motor mount bolt. I admit, removing subframe bolts is scary cuz it better line up when I put it together. I noticed the subframe dropped a bit, even though I am supporting engine/tranny with a floor jack. Once I figure out the motor mount removal, its time to pry the subframe. There is either one bolt in the middle of the mount, or two bolts at the bottom. Im going to research it and find out which needs to come off. I tried to remove the bar without having to drop subframe, and its impossible. Too many curves in the bar. So far, its been stright forward. I am using air tools and I bought $100 worth of 1/2" drive hardened sockets that are wonderful.

 

What the outcome mang?

Kamski

 

Hey Kam sorry for O/T but did you ever get that stillen front lip painted and installed yet? also dues hows it coming so far

 

Lip came in, didnt paint it or install yet, i'm going to Europe soon and I'd rather use the cash on Chechoslovakian Hookers LOLLOLOLOL

No no, I'll get it on, still need new bumper and grille. Will do all at the same time.

Kamski

 

deus i hope everythings coming good...i hope you don't miss allign anything when putting everything back together. good luck we are all looking forward to seeing if this will be the next step in handling perfromance mods.

 

THE BAR IS OUT!!!! Prying that subframe was really a bzitch, but I got it!! Its hard to tell the difference between the OEM bar and the SE-R bar, but using a 15/16" open end wrench, the wrench easily slides over the OEM bar with 2mm gap, whereas the SE-R bar wont allow the wrench to fit over it.

Here is a pic of the bars side by side with wrench over OEM bar:


Here is pic with wrench over SE-R bar:


Here is what it looks like when you work in 102 degree temperatures, 100% humidity, and you have to remove a front sway bar:


Time for a dinner break, and Ill see how far I get on the install.

 

JESUS MURPHY!

Do they look the same? It WILL FIT right?

Kamski

 

They look EXACTLY the same, except the SE-R bar is thicker. I am confident it will work.

 

you go boiiii...lolxz...congratz...ghope eveythunbg works out the way tyou want it to...lolxz

 

Soo........... iguess i was right ..........................

Props to you for trying it out

I'm next

Kamski

 

Lets see how the install goes . . .can't to try and get that subframe back up. The alignment should not be affected at all. I'll make some time for the install later this afternoon. And, of course Ill keep u posted and take plenty of pics.

 

Is the SE-R bar heavier, or just thicker?

 

I'd assume that it would be a little heavier, considering that the 2mm more of metal and that I believe that it's solid so that would make it heavier as well; but not more than a few pounds imo just like the rear OEM sway bar compared to the Progress/Cattman bar.

 

HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY

 

Stock RSB is hollow and weight 6 pounds, Progress is solid and weight 12 pounds. I'm just curious if the SE-R FSB is noticeably heavier.

 

I weighed the bars. The stock bar is 1 1/2 pounds lighter than the SE-R bar.

 

Thanks. I'll wait until it's cooler to do this one though!

 

Good idea. Im heading out there to wrap it up shortly.

 

I am on the edge of my seat to find out how this will change the performance. I hop eit is better after all the work you have done

 

Definately!

 

Im in the home stretch!! Sway bar fits perfectly!!! I just need to tighten down bushings and bolt in Y-pipe and put wheels on. I'll start another thread regarding how to install and results.

 

DEUS your ROCK mang, I cant wait to see the results.

Kamski

 

Great job Deus, I'll await the new thread...

 

DISASTER STRIKES!!!! I started the car and the steering somehow got disconnected!!!! When I turn the steering wheel, its doesn't turn the wheels. It feels like its disconnected!!I cant understand how that happened. Im gonna get underthere and find out. I hope I dont have to redo this!!

 

ooo man...these are the type of things that scare the living crap out of me when i do anything with the car.

 

I went under the car to check out the steering rack. It looks fine. I had someone turn the steering wheel, but I couldnt see anything moving leading me to believe that maybe the column broke inside the car when I dropped the subframe down. The steering rack is bolted to the subframe, of course. I need help!!!

 

Check the steering rack again, may just be loseor something. When the subframe was off the car, what did you do to the rack?

 

Check the splines. The shaft runs into a spine and held with a clamp. It is possible the spline (male side) slipped out when you dropped the subframe. Hopefully you can loosen the clamp and slip the shaft back in the femal side and reclamp it (no pun intended!).